BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

Clutch line replacement DIY

44K views 33 replies 21 participants last post by  Clemster  
#1 ·
Change today a leaking clutch line.

Image



New line:

Image


Open bonnet,remove pollen filter housing(don't forget to disconnect bonnet switch) in order to get to the brake fluid reservoir.

Image


Remove bolt(Phillips head) of carpet side panel and slide it backwards to remove it.


Remove plastic panel under dash board(Phillips head and T10 screws)

Image


Remove screw of bonnet lever(Philips head) and the plastic bolt behind it(flat head).



Pull up the inner plastic rocker cover and remove it.

Pull the whole dead pedal unit backwards out.Disconnect trunk switch.Remove the assembly completely.Is a bit PITA to do...

Image


Remove the plastic cap in the carpet behind the clutch pedal and pull the carpet away.
Image


Get the car front on jack stands,remove plastic tray under gearbox.


Remove the nuts from heat shield(10mm socket) and pull it down abit in order to get a bit space.
Image


Remove slave cylinder from gearbox(13mm socket), remove circlip of the clutch line connector with screw driver and let the fluid drip in a bucket.
Image


Remove circlip of the line on the master cylinder and put some paper towels there to catch brake fluid.


Push old line out through the whole in the fire wall behind accelerator pedal.



Insert new line ffrom underneath the car with the protection caps still on.
Have to also pull it a bit from the inside in until it is in position.Connect line on the master cylinder.
Image


Connect line on the slave cylinder and dont forget the bracket!

push rubber gromet in the fire wall(another slight PITA).

Install slave cylinder and bleed the clutch system.
Check for leaks and assemble the rest.
Image

Get a cold beer......
 
#2 ·
Thanks for the DIY. What are the symptoms of a leaking clutch line?
 
#3 ·
Drew,sometimes the pedal is a bit too soft.But you see only from underneath if it is sweating.Worst case is the line blows and the pedal stays on the floor.Have to change anotherone next week,also a few members had theirs changed yet.
Costs about 30$ and an hour labour.
Better than getting stranded somewhere....
 
#4 · (Edited)
Here is another thing to change soon,O man.. my list for the 100k maintenance is growing long
Vantaa.. can you post the part no. and save us some search ?
Regards
 
#6 ·
Wow great write-up! I'll put this on the list as well.
 
#8 ·
Thanks,everyone for the comments!
Part number is:21526751171


Peter,had a problem with the connection on the master cylinder side with the braided hose I built.Ordered a different connector which might take another two weeks until it is here:confused2
I did not want to take chances with my old line and the new OEM part is so cheap.You know I am a bit paranoide on failing parts,so the whole last week each time I used the clutch,I waited for the pedal to stay on the floorouich
Have now more relaxed driving with the new line in until the rest for my braided line comes.
 
#9 ·
Excellent write up sir !!

On my todo list ! My mechanic hates you !!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Terabass
#11 ·
Clutch line Failure

I had a clutch line that burst suddenly and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. This was a replacement Dinan S3 clutch that had been giving signs that it was going to fail; it was already slipping under load in 5th. The clutch pedal had gotten progressively harder to depress over the previous weeks and this was a clutch pedal that was overly stiff to begin with. Wound up calling AAA and having the beast flatbedded to my indy mechanic. The resolution with Dinan was unsatisfactory.

Ray
 
#13 ·
Clutch Line Failure



It blew late on a Sunday evening while I was returning home with my wife. I was exiting at the W79th Street exit off the southbound West Side Highway. I rolled through the stop sign at the bottom of the ramp and onto the shoulder of the traffic circle. The thing that galls me the most about this failure was the fact that this clutch should have been replaced long before this event, because of the previously mentioned slippage issue. I was arguing (unsuccessfully as it turned out) with Dinan and my indy that this should be a warranty replacement. Ultimately I wound up eating the cost of a whole new S3 clutch package and flywheel installation.

Unhappy doesn't begin to describe my feeling.
 
#15 ·
yeahhh buddy. Did this exact same job three weeks or so ago. Clutch line was torn on both rubber ends, brake fluid was clearly pooling on the outside when crawling underneath. Thanks for posting pics? Line is cheap, job isnt too difficult so not really that big of a deal.
 
#16 · (Edited)
In a RHD drive car in the UK built Jan 2002, looked up the part number on Real OEM as:-

21 52 1165417 REPAIR KIT CLUTCH LINE, Although it is not shown as ended on Real OEM this part is no longer available.

What you will need is as per below.

21 52 1164472 ZB KUPPLUNGSLEITUNG VOM GEBERZYLINDER AKA Clutch Line
34 32 6757282 INTERMEDIATE PIECE, M10X1
21 52 1164303 BRACKET
21 52 1164473 ZB KUPPLUNGSLEITUNG ZUM HALTER AKA Clutch Line
21 52 1164603 GROMMET
21 52 1164710 BRACKET

Hope this is of help to someone.

Regards
Chad
 
#17 ·
Ladies, Raikku has done to my car almost every diy what he has wrote, and I really suggest that you guys take care of all the things as a preventive maintenance. My car has seen 130.000 km's and the history of this car is good. We've seen quite many M5's coming to Raikku's garage to have some sort of inspection and almost every car needs at least one of the diys :)

This statement is just my '20c to all of the board members that should give big hand to this crazy mc gyver who keeps posting here all the good stuff which is going gonna save lots of money for all of us!

ps. Raikku, I'll drink atleast one for you today, enough said

- drunken sipi :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: sor118 and vantaam5
#18 · (Edited)
You know which of my DIYs is still missing on your car,brother:7::7:eek:uich
Just ask mailman for the parts list:biggrinbounce:

Have BTW a new favorite maintenance item,the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line....
We change it on sipi's car next week.Will write a short DIY about it as well,if wished.


Many of these maintenance things seem not too much related to car age and mileage.Might sound strange,but on the 10+ E39 M5s I take now and then care of an observation I made....

Sipi's and mine are one of the lower mileage and high maintenance facelifts.But still each time we check our cars,we find more stuff to replace.And I am not talking about cosmetical or senseless stuff:)

P.S.: Sorry didn't call you yesterday evening,but am hanging now home with a flu and was not in the mood to go out!
 
#24 ·
wanted to ask car is in shop now i gave in lol so replaced slave as pm and when bleeding i noticed a leak etc couldnt find it for the life of me so my indy said it was the master leaking replaced that today and he said the line is "balloning" would that allow the clutch not to engage? when the car is off it goes into gear fine once on seems like the slave isnt pressing the throwout bearing far enough etc even used a longer rod stage 3 cm clutch and pressure plate.... my question is would the balloning affect ie weak section of line allow for that pressure not to be applied properly to the slave? new line has been ordered cheapest part ive bought in many years for the beast will not be hear until thursday though and i wanted to be driving the beast out of town for the new year bummer...
 
#26 ·
Noticed a bulge in my clutch line while doing a clutch job this week, so I appreciate the DIY. As I handled the clutch line, the outer casing just disintegrated in my hands. This line definitely has a service life which I'd put at about 13 years! If you're doing a clutch job, budget time for this repair.

Let me add that this was seriously the biggest PITA of the entire clutch job, by far! The dead pedal is a total PITA to get out and even more mysterious to get in. There are various tabs and rubber feet on the back of the dead pedal that are very difficult if not impossible to re-align! It's a wrestling match. Also, the carpet is ultra-thick and RIGHT where you need room, you can't get it, which is right behind the gas pedal. That's where the line comes through.

On top if that, the rubber GROMMET— what an evil little piece of rubber that is. I probably burned 30 minutes getting that SOB to seat. Brutal.
 
#28 ·
Late to the party, but ya, the dead pedal is the worst part of the job. Why they couldn't just screw the damn thing in, is beyond me. I also now know why these cars weigh over 4000lbs. A 1000lbs of it is carpet and padding....lol

A few tips:

When pulling out the dead pedal/kick panel, pull it straight back towards you at first and then gradually arch the leading edge it toward the passenger side as you work the rubber feet out of their holes.


If you're replacing an original clutch line, be aware that little circlip, on the output side, is more than likely seized to the fitting. I actually ended up disconnecting the line at the output cylinder and then taking the upper and lower lines to my bench to get the clip out. I also had to put the fitting in a vice to get the upper and lower lines separated after the clip was out. Be prepared to order a new lower line if it's too far gone or if you just don't want to screw with it. The part no is 21521162116. $37 and some change from ECS.
 
#30 ·
Adam,

I've done so many clutch jobs recently that I can't remember if yours was worn. If you need to, give me a call and I'll walk you through it.