Differential input shaft sealing DIY

ger · Jul 4, 2010

Superb, thank you vantam5.
This is a job I'll need to do very soon on mine. I'm also going to be changing the handbrake cables and it's very likely that the propshaft bearing will need to be renewed too (getting some light vibration in the cabin). I may well finish the job off with new prop rubbers (guibos), everything will be nice and fresh after this and all done in one job.

ger · Jul 4, 2010

Sorry, double post.

StreetDragster · Jul 4, 2010

vantaam5 said:
If anyone is interested,I write a full DIY how to rebuild these differentials as I have one to rebuild in a few weeks...

Cheers for this thread, and yep i'm interested in a rebuild one

Thanks

Matt

Neil.D · Jul 4, 2010

Excellent thanks brother!

ger · Jul 4, 2010

I should have added this earlier:
I've also heard that a leaking prop/diff seal is a good indication of a worn prop bearing - the additional flexing and vibration 'hurts' the seal causing it to eventually leak. A minimum of a thorough inspection of the bearing should be done if a seal is being replaced. If you're not DIY'ing it then the additional cost of a new bearing is pretty small compared with the cost of fitting it at a later date so it may well be wise to have it changed along with the seal.

frank///M5 · Jul 4, 2010

do you put the car on a lift?

i need to do it on my beast,but is it easy to get the exhaust of when the car is not on a lift?

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 4, 2010

I do not have a lift,so I get it up as much as possible on jack stands..

frank///M5 · Jul 4, 2010

thanks,i go for it after the summer.

i will take the beer today.

mooch · Jul 4, 2010

Question: If you are disconnecting both the input and output shafts, why not remove the whole differential and fix it on the bench?

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 4, 2010

If you read my DIY again and look at the pics,you will see that only the input shaft is disconnected.

I write about removing the whole diff also as second option.

In this case I had to remove the propshaft of the car anyway to change the center bearing.So the diff stayed in the car and I only changed the leaking input shaft sealing.

The procedure TIS describes is to remove exhaust and propshaft,FYI....

When I changed on my car the sealing,I removed the diff...,cleaned it from dirt and rust,gave it all new sealings and a fresh paint job...

mooch · Jul 4, 2010

Gotcha. When you said disconnect the drive shafts, I read that to mean that that step applied to both methods.

Any gotchas with removing/reinstalling the diff?

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 4, 2010

Pretty easy and straight forward to remove the diff,as soon as the part of the exhaust underneath it is gone.takes then about 30min to remove it.
No problem to remove/install it alone with a good floor jack.

bimmerule · Apr 1, 2013

Clemster said:
One really good reason would be that it weighs 110 lbs.! I'm installing my 3.45 Dinan diff tomorrow and picking that thing up is no fun.

My stock exhaust is one-piece, if I cut it post resonators, will that give enough room to drop the diff, and access the front diff bushing? What type of exhaust clamps do you recommend IF I end up cutting the exhaust, as Clemster and I both know, dropping/installing the one-piece exhaust is brutal.

Chris_M5 · Jul 5, 2010

Thank you for your write up and pics. Have you replaced the busings that hold the diff in place? They are number 6 and 9 in the below realoem pic. If so, how difficult was it to do? I have replaced the 3 diff seals and I still have a leak going on and after the last inspection I noticed that the #6 bushing is very worn. That may be contributing to more flex under acceleration and casusing the seals to leak. Your input would be greatly appreciated.

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 5, 2010

Yep,on mine I changed the bushings.

It is a pain to change them!

Officially you need special tools,but if you can weld and have some steel around,no problem to build the special tools yourself!A gas torch or similar also helps to heat the frame a bit up to get the old ones out.
New bushings in the freezer and heat the frame a bit up and you get them also pretty ok in again.

Will not get today anymore in the garage,but take some pics of my tools tomorrow and post them with some sizes and a fast how to build up.

Chris_M5 · Jul 5, 2010

Thanks for the reply and I look forward to your pics. I think I may tackle the job.

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 5, 2010

This is a job you need two beers once you are done with it:hihi:

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 6, 2010

Guys, shave on me!

forgot the camera and am away now from home until sunday!

Have to take pics of the tool(not me,the other tool:hihi: ) then!

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Jul 25, 2010

Long ago promised pics of the selfmade differential bushing tools.

Pretty easy to build:haha:

mondeoman · Aug 1, 2010

Ok, dumb question time ....

The securing plate for the nut - does that come off before or after you undo the nut??

Got to admit I'm struggling to see how it secures the nut anyway, but thats a small issue.

Will a 240v Impact wrench (like this one) do the job? I've tried just a breaker bar, but that nut aint moving!!

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Aug 2, 2010

Dave,450NM should be enough,so the impact wrench will open the nut.

The locking plate I usually do not remove,the impact wrench does its job there.

russap5 · Feb 2, 2011

Raikku, thanks for the DIY again..

My diff is leaking from both output shafts, so I am going to have the seals on those and the input shaft replaced. Also, how many mounting bushings are there for the diff?? Three?? Mine are busted and need to replace those too.

Can you list the parts needed to replace all seals, including dust covers, etc..?

Everything else in my rear suspension looks perfect so probably won't touch anything else while doing the diff and wheel bearings.

Thanks buddy,
Drew

Current Parts List:
Diff Seals
33107510289 – x2 – Output Shaft Seal w/ Locking Ring $11.11
33131213713 – x2 – Dustcover Plate Large for Output Shaft $9.59
33122283079 – x2 – Dustcover Plate Small for Output Shaft $3.52
33121213949 – x1 – Input Shaft Seal $33.48
33122282678 – x1 – Dust Cover Plate for Input Shaft $4.19
33121205138 – x1 – Securing Plate (is this needed??) $2.24
Diff Mounts
REAR
33171093008 – x2 – Rubber Mounting REAR $20.16
33326760346 – x2 – Hex Bolt w/ Washer $2.31
33326760374 – x2 – Self-Locking Collar Nut $1.58
FRONT
33171090389 – x1 – Rubber Mounting FRONT $15.62
33176760342 – x1 – Hex Bolt w/ Washer $3.53
33326760380 – x1 – Combination Nut $2.07 <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w

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vantaam5 Discussion starter · Feb 2, 2011

Drew,you need the securing plate.

All other parts I can confirm you need for that project you have.

Here is a link to the output shaft seals...

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/161288-differential-rebuild-some-pics.html

russap5 · Feb 2, 2011

Thanks Raikku. I have decided to do the subframe bushings too. They are only $38 and should tighten up the rear end nicely. That's probably it for now..

jamiepeers · Feb 2, 2011

Raikku. Is the pic in the link showing that you used a 2 leg puller to remove the output shaft seals, or do they pry out like the input seal?

Jamie

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Feb 2, 2011

Jamie,both ways work to get the sealing out.

Neighbour · Sep 19, 2011

Raikku, since you are very knowledgeable in these cars you probably know why my diff makes a whine on turns when car is cold? Must be the diff oil?

Thanks.

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Sep 20, 2011

Karl,most likely input shaft bearings worn...

Neighbour · Sep 20, 2011

Thanks. Are they replaceable? Where can i found them here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE91&mospid=47550&btnr=33_1041&hg=33&fg=05

P.s. the noise happens only when wheels are not rolling equally,i mean on turns at low speeds, i assume you get it right.

vantaam5 Discussion starter · Sep 20, 2011

BMW does not sell them....I get them usually from bearing suppliers...

How long takes the ferry from Riga to Helsinki?

Neighbour · Sep 20, 2011

need to check it out, what are you offering?

m5TillIDie · Oct 20, 2011

Though about doing this but my indy says that the nut that has to be taken off has a certain tension that can never be attained again. Is this true?

Chris_M5 · Oct 20, 2011

I think that is why you mark the nut/shaft, as mentioned in his first post above the first picture. I hope that helps you out.

ortontom · Oct 29, 2011

morning - i had the same problem (leaking diff) ive had the seals replaced but as soon as its all back together its leaking badly again. The car will return to the garage, but any steer on what should be the target of the problem - as a new seal hasnt resolved it?

its the main "in" shaft thats leaking

tom

Differential input shaft sealing DIY

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