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Here are the pictures of the M28 x 1.5 to -10AN adapter from eBay. However, now it seems that the fitting is not M28 either.. ? ??????
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Why don't you use a 2 component epoxy based glue. Something like this Loctite Epoxy Weld Bonding Compound from Loctite Adhesives

I did, with the M26 adapters. It works like it should. It seals, fills up, sticks, is strong, easy to use, etc.

O-rings don't fit perfectly, I adapted the M26 adapters a little with a lathe. I used o-rings and epoxy to be sure.

I didn't weld it, because I didn't want to expose the thermostat inside to too much heat.
 
Got my oil cooler installed! I couldn't be happier with the hose routing and how it all turned out. Huge thanks to Al Wilson and Mike O'Neill at Northeast Motorsports for what I think is a truly spectacular job of making it all fit (remember I still have stock air boxes) and look almost invisible unless you go looking! Al was a magician!

After trying to find the perfect metric fitting for the oil filter housing (26mm too small, 28mm too big - yeah, I know that means probably 27mm but that doesn't seem to exist and didn't feel like having it custom made when, as many others have said, the 26mm fitting works fine when used with an o-ring).

Oil filter housing: sourced from Open Road BMW in NJ (local so no shipping) for $264 (about $15 cheaper than Tischer who would have then added another $15 for shipping)

M26mm x 1.5mm to -10AN fittings and o-rings from Pegasus Racing for $66 www.pegasusautoracing.com

Setrab 16 row oil cooler and Setrab oil cooler specific -10AN fittings: I got a great deal on from Steve (havasusteve) who was swapping this out to install the gorgeous Dinan oil cooler - thanks Steve!

Braided lines (Aeroquip FBA Stainless Braided Hose) and 4ea. 90 degree Redhorse Swivel Seal aluminum hose end fittings: sourced from Baker Performance Products Baker Precision - Buy Racecar parts and supplies online - including Earl's, Speedflow and Aeroquip Hose and Fittings, Aurora, NHBB and FK Rod Ends, Neo Synthetic Oil, Setrab Oil Coolers, Fire Systems, Fuel Cel for about $170. I ordered 10' of hose but had about 2' left over. I also ordered 2ea. 45 degree hose ends as it wasn't clear when we started what angle would be best coming out of filter housing given that I'm running stock airboxes.

Al fabricated a small bracket to raise up the filter housing and move it back a bit. He also used a taller mount for the power steering reservoir so that the oil cooler lines come out of the filter housing cleanly underneath the P/S reservoir.

In addition to excellent mounting of the filter housing, Al used the bumper cover support beam to install two studs onto which attaches the oil cooler mounting bracket. He needed two spacers to line it up properly in the lower bumper grill but it's a super solid mount and fits great - virtually invisible. The hoses have enough play in them to allow the bumper cover to be removed most of the way allowing access to the oil cooler mounting studs.

Only thing I will need to do is raise my license plate in its mount a bit and will probably remove it entirely while on track. As is, the plate will probably create such an area of low pressure behind it that the oil cooler won't actually get much air.

I think pics speak for themselves as to how clean the install is (and how clean my car is NOT - man, I can't wait for Spring!); I had trouble finding picture angles that made it evident what I was taking a picture of!

For anyone with stock airboxes considering this mod but have held off, take a look and start putting together the parts list!
 

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Northeast Motorsports is slowly but surely becoming THE E39 M5 shop on the East Coast!

--Peter

+1

and Mike was nice enough to let me swap out a few trick bits from the LMB E39 M5 parts car he has sitting there!:biggrinbounce: Sorry, Peter, couldn't resist - she'll be breathing again soon!
 
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Glad to see you got it all installed and are happy with it. :)

Whats up with all you LMB cars on the East Coast....

Enjoy that cooler at the track.

I was going to a Speed Ventures autocross tomorrow, but rain and not enough time on my new clutch will prohibit it. :(
 
hey Tradin1, is that an OE E46 M3 cooler and bracket that you have modified to fit or something else entirely with a custom bracket that you fab'd up?
 
Cool. Any idea if the oil filter housing 11421405197 would be any better alternative to the 540i gulf version?

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Could also use the cooler from the 750iL or E46 M3 and they have the inlet/outlet both on the driver's side. (for LHD)
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just some food for thought for you guys.

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That is a nice viable alternative. Interesting how the incoming air goes straight through, vs. what "You know who" from Morgan Hill came up with, in regards to mounting angles.
 

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That is a nice viable alternative. Interesting how the incoming air goes straight through, vs. what "You know who" from Morgan Hill came up with, in regards to mounting angles.
i like the HPF alternative a little more.

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may invert the cooler so the air intake section comes up instead of facing down like it does in their kit.
 
Interesting...Is that the E46 kit? What happens to the trapped air from it and yours? Or do both hold air and have nowhere for the flow through ventilation to go?
 
Interesting...Is that the E46 kit? What happens to the trapped air from it and yours? Or do both hold air and have nowhere for the flow through ventilation to go?
trapped air goes out the back, the only difference is that the HPF is getting air from underneath the car, instead of the front of the car like mine is. i doubt theres much if any benefit of relocating it to be underneath. so far ive noticed my oil temps to stay inbetween the middle and left dot. occasionally on the freeway the oil gets to the first dot. so that leads me to believe the benefit is marginal if any.
 
So with yours (850csi) and the HPF's, no plastic tray is used? The reason I ask is that Dinans kit had me modify the plastic so that intake air could come in and once the air has passed through the cooler, escapes out the back of the tray, therefore not running the risk of pressurizing it and blowing it (tray) out the bottom.
 
So with yours (850csi) and the HPF's, no plastic tray is used? The reason I ask is that Dinans kit had me modify the plastic so that intake air could come in and once the air has passed through the cooler, escapes out the back of the tray, therefore not running the risk of pressurizing it and blowing it (tray) out the bottom.
pressurizing and blowing? sounds a bit excessive no?

i have my tray on, so does HPF, HPF has the tray cut just slightly up front, but not the back. i believe you cut the front for fitment and the back to release the air?

i havent cut the back, dont see a need to since i havent had any issues as of yet, the thought of that never crossed my mind either, i mean you could technically apply the same logic to the wheel well liners too no? we dont cut exit ports there when we open the fog lights.
 
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i mean you could technically apply the same logic to the wheel well liners too no? we dont cut exit ports there when we open the fog lights.
Oh yes we do! Most of us have vents right behind our air filters to create a low pressure zone in the wheel well and improve airflow through the space. Ryan Needham was the first to do this on the board and dyno-tested it to prove the improvement--and this, on a NA setup!

--Peter
 
Oh yes we do! Most of us have vents right behind our air filters to create a low pressure zone in the wheel well and improve airflow through the space. Ryan Needham was the first to do this on the board and dyno-tested it to prove the improvement--and this, on a NA setup!

--Peter
+1 Tradin...Cut out wheel liner with vent on the back side....Here is a shot of my pan/tray with the cutouts. The front is for air intake where the rear is for exit.
 

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