Don't stress, this one is easy.

Unless you have the ability to modify the ECU programming to eliminate the entire system that is dealing with the air pump, don't even think about removing it. If you live in a state that has OBD II testing and you decide to have the ECU reprogrammed, MAKE SURE that whoever the magician is knows about readiness flags and makes sure that your will be properly set, otherwise you are in for trouble. Given what I know about the state of M5 ECU tuning, I would relocate the pump, it is not that big of a deal.

 

OBD2 is the downside, I think that's all there is to it.

you either fool the system into believing the SAP is there, or accept the 1 or 2 not-ready codes.

 

Fooling the ECU is not a bad way to go either, but it is so inelegant in an M5 hiha

 

Mine was deleted with the ESS kit 2 years ago. I have passed NC inspection twice since our state allows one 'not ready'. I cannot comment on its effect to the cats or the environment. I'm assuming ESS would have considered any potential ill effects on the car, but who knows.

 

We do not have inspections in Ohio, not a concern for me, but may be for other members.

 

If you are worried about the rich mixture upon cold startup destroying the cats - don't.

 

You are obviously aware of the Not ready issue, not an issue if the rest of the car is in top shape as yours is. The "what" this system does is get the cat working faster. It is very much like blowing on a fire that is just an ember. If you look at how many cars have this system plugged, if something bad was going to happen you would know about it already. Guy's throwing the AA code don't come back a year later and say my cats are done.

Mine is plugged on one bank and it is my intention to plumb directly to my new headers, but the headers would be on the car if I would just skip this idea. I do believe the SAP brings the whole engine up to temp faster and as far as I'm concerned that is a very good thing. That and that alone is a good enough reason to fix or keep the system. I am sure you have heard the old adage of X% of wear on an engine occurs during warm up. I figure the faster you get it up to temp the better.

 

You are obviously aware of the Not ready issue, not an issue if the rest of the car is in top shape as yours is. The "what" this system does is get the cat working faster. It is very much like blowing on a fire that is just an ember. If you look at how many cars have this system plugged, if something bad was going to happen you would know about it already. Guy's throwing the AA code don't come back a year later and say my cats are done.

Mine is plugged on one bank and it is my intention to plumb directly to my new headers, but the headers would be on the car if I would just skip this idea. I do believe the SAP brings the whole engine up to temp faster and as far as I'm concerned that is a very good thing. That and that alone is a good enough reason to fix or keep the system. I am sure you have heard the old adage of X% of wear on an engine occurs during warm up. I figure the faster you get it up to temp the better.

So do you still have yr SAP connected/working?

I know SAP "heats up" CATs faster...but engine?

 

For those that are worried about OBDII readiness it can be reinstalled pretty fast before your inspection, then removed again. Reinstall it a week or so before so the readiness monitors can reset...

In Washington we can have 1 not ready for 03 and newer, the 01's and 02's can have 2 not ready and pass...

Sounds like in Ohio, you don't need to sweat it... and if you're worried about your cats, just remove those too! :goldcup:

 

For those that are worried about OBDII readiness it can be reinstalled pretty fast before your inspection, then removed again. Reinstall it a week or so before so the readiness monitors can reset...

In Washington we can have 1 not ready for 03 and newer, the 01's and 02's can have 2 not ready and pass...

Sounds like in Ohio, you don't need to sweat it... and if you're worried about your cats, just remove those too! :goldcup:

you're assuming that the SA passages aren't blocked and installing it will even pass any testing.


also, cats aren't even up to temp when the SAP is running; catalytic converter damage happens when you run super rich for extended periods of time and have too much hydrocarbon combustion in the cataytic cells, extremely-poor ignition timing can also be an issue.

 

What RAO said; no worries about your cats or the temporarily rich mixture. I should have such problems! Oy vez!

Just delete it and have PC or Evolve program the ECU to ignore the error. You'll be fine.

--Peter

 

PS,

Peter, I know we already discussed this, I thought it would be nice to share what you and I discussed privately...... IF you are ok with that....

Fine with me. Posted the upshot of that discussion. Rao has it right as rain.

--Peter

 

Fine with me. Posted the upshot of that discussion. Rao has it right as rain.

--Peter

Even the blind squirrel occassionally finds a nut.

 

OK, so where do I plug it? At the hose that goes into the SAP? Can I just thread a big bolt in that hose to seal it up or should I follow that hose back and plug it there? Where does that hose go?

 

Delete the SAV altogether and plug the flange with a gasket and plate.

--Peter

 

What does the SAV connect to and how hard is it to get to?

 

Connects to the SAP via the black hose and to the horizontal tube zig-zagging its way across the front of the S62 and is not particularly difficult to reach on a NA beast.

--Peter

 

I want air pump 24/7

I want mine to run all the time when at idle, not just a start up.
Love the off beat super cammy sound.

Apples

 

Glad to see that my old threads are being put to good use here

I disconnected mine for the CAI install, didn't do anything, no adverse affects. Only thing I noticed was a slightly louder hissing noise during morning start ups, after a min or so the sound went away after the car warmed up.

 

I tried to delete this today... Here is my solution Pics included.

I have tried to come up with a solution to delete the Secondary Air Pump a few times. I have not had much success in trying to delete the air pump until today. BTW my motor and solenoide work great I just would rather preserve the motor for when I need it. I first unplugged it.. knowing that that was not going to work but, I thought I would try it.
I then tried to use just a resistior this did not work as I saw a pending code show up right away with my scan tool.
what I did was use a little hoppy motor, btw this is just like the ones used in door lock actuators. Its just a little motor.

I wired this into the plug that goes to the SAI motor. I used heat shrink and connectors from McMasterCarr.

I hope this continues to work. I will let you know if I have any issues..

BP

 

I am assuming you think that will keep the code away? If no what does it do? What sets the code is an O2 sensor reading.

 

Sailor24 you are the man. I couldn't find this anywhere. I'm guessing my fix will fail based on your list...
BP

 

The DME can only monitor things it is directly connected to like the secondary air valve and the relay for the pump. It doesn't directly power the pump and has no way of monitoring it so I don't think the little motor you have installed will make any difference.

As sailor's table shows, the DME has a pretty clever way of monitoring the whole SA system by looking for a certain O2 sensor response. That's what makes it so difficult to fool.

 

Sorry to tell you but really either replumb the system or see a tuner and have the software fix it.

 

would the SAP cause a misfire on some cylinders at start up?
Coincidentally the SAP code was thrown and then the misfire codes at the same time? Only happened at a cold start..

 

missfire on start up...replace or remove SAP?





I seem to be having some similar issues to what i am guessing you (twiggy) had and i was curious as to what your solve ended up being. i have a 2000 M5 with 70k miles on it. after having it a month, i got all sorts of codes all at once... secondary air too low, missfire on all cyl on cold start, fuel adaption on both banks and Mass air meter plausibility ...

When i started my car in the mornings, it would never stall or do anything odd, just that the air pump was REALLY loud for 90 seconds, i thought this was normal until i had a shop tell me oh yeah you need to replace that, clear the codes then see what happens.

its only after the car is warm when i then turn it off, a short amount of time goes by (less than a hour) when i turn it back on and i get a very rough idol for a min or so then i get the missfire codes. Other than that the car drives very very good.

What did you end up doing to solve your SAP issue/missfire codes?

 

No sap is not doing that. Always could be vanos you would have to be more descriptive in the specifics, like codes. could be a coil or power problem. The coils are required to fire twice as often in the first 1000 revolutions. It takes time for them to recover.

 

Would sea foam cure carbon in the sap??


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

no wont touch it

 

Air Pump delete

I had the same issue with mine. I'm in Connecticut and mine was tuned out. The DME was programmed to simulate the pump and give a readiness code. My car failed previously and after the tune passed with flying colors.

 

I had the same issue with mine. I'm in Connecticut and mine was tuned out. The DME was programmed to simulate the pump and give a readiness code. My car failed previously and after the tune passed with flying colors.

What tune did you use, as I'm having this same issue......appreciate any suggestions.

 

Does anyone know how heavy the SAP is? 10lbs? 20 lbs?

 

I got my old one, 3-4 lbs. Thinking of saving some weight??