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DIY: BeastPower Rear Sway Bar Brackets

19K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  freedomheel 
#1 ·
Gents - Here is another relatively simple DIYer.

I noticed that my rear driver side sway bar bracket was cracked so I immediately order a set of BeastPower rear sway bar brackets from Cal @ JleviSW, who BTW has provided me the best customer service to date. Placed the order last Monday and the arrived on Friday, and I just finished installing them.

These are beautiful pieces of aluminum with a very nice black finish. Provided are the following:

2x BeastPower brackets
2x socket head screws
2x flange nuts
2x washers




Step 1:
Unbolt the (broken) OEM sway bar brackets using 2x 13mm wrenches:




Step 2:
At each end of the sway bar is a nut (don't have the exact size here, I used an adjustable wrench - which was a total PITA) that MUST be removed before throwing on the BeastPower brackets. The new brackets are very beefy and has a very tight fit on the sub-frame. It would be a good idea to have a can of WD40 or PB Blaster on hand to loosen/lubricate all the nuts and bolts.

I started out on the driver side and spent quite a bit of time as I didn't have a wide variety of tools to ease the work, but once I developed my own technique the other side was cake. This is what the end of the sway bar looks like:





Step 3:
I lubricated all the parts before placing the new bracket on, this makes fitment slight easier. Line up the bracket with the holes and install it using the supplied socket head screw, washer and nut.

Once that has been tighten, go back and nut up the end of the sway bar using the original nut that you removed.

Repeat for the other side and here are the results:







Fitment is perfect and always remember to place a jack stand under the proper jack points when working under your car. Place a wooden block or a stopper in front of the front wheels.

Go wash your hands and pop open a cold one :M5launch:

Dan
 

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#5 ·
Quick comments for readers who only see this post:
- if you keep the suspension under compression (ramps=yes, jacks=no), you can avoid fussing with links
- be mindful of torque ramifications if you choose to lubricate a bolt/nut
- using soapy water to assist in a good bushing fit is likely all the lubricating you'll need
- to each his/her own in figuring out whether to replace multiple times with OEM, or once with these (disclosure: I chose the latter)
 
#6 ·
the nuts on the drop link arms are 16mm. for some strange reason BMW chose this size - maybe just to screw anyone who wants to work on there own cars.. you will find that most small tool sets do not include an 18mm spanner - and for the drop links you will need two. One for the nut and one for the flat sided piece on the other side of the arm that stops the nut spinning. If you jack the car up and place on axle stands and then remove the wheels, its not difficult to simply use the jack under each suspension arm to position the drop links relative to the sway bar.
 
#8 ·
I believe they are $100ish shipped. Visit the forum sponsor page...there are a few sponsors offering them :)
 
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#10 ·
Torquey5,

Thanks for writing this up & providing pictures of both the new & old brackets. I will have to crawl under my car & see ho mine are doing. No matter what, I think it would be a good idea to toss these "bullet proof" units into the mix when I get my PSS9 system installed...
Good idea. This exchange is a very easy DIY. Highly recommended.
Very nice pics in the write up.
 
#11 ·
Nice write up.
I just ordered mine yesterday.
I'll be trying this on ramps, (hopefully) without disconnecting the end links.

Did you order new BMW bushings, or simply re-use what you have?
 
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#12 ·
I just re-used the original rubber bushings as they seemed to be still in great shape.


chowdah - As you can see from my pics I didn't overly use the spray cans, just a tad enough to get them loose and even after that I wiped off excess lub.


jfman - M5555555555555 is correct, they were just a hair over $100, I ordered mine from Cal over at JleviSW.
 
#13 ·
Good write-up. I did this about three or four months ago. I ordered new bushings from BMW as well.

I did mine with the rear up on ramps, keeping the suspension compressed and negating the need to unfasten the end links. Way easier, and took about 15 minutes per side to do.
 
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#14 ·
Yes, ramps are the way to go here; one of the first mods I did myself. I have never heard of a set breaking. The OEM's break with a stock engine. Any power mods, and you'll be sure to hear the swaybar slapping the undecarriage.
 
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#17 ·
Just installed these. Very impressed with the quality of these brackets. Easy install.
Back the car up onto ramps. This way the suspension is compressed and there is no need to remove the sway bar from the end links. Simply remove the old bracket or what is left of it. I took the bushings off and cleaned them and the sway bar, because Im one of those people that likes to clean stuff when I am working on them :). I put some white lithium grease on the inside of the bushings (area that wraps around the sway bar, not the outside portion that contacts the bracket). Put lip of the new bracket into the subframe and push down over the bushing. Push screw through the bracket and subframe and get a few threads poking out on the other side so you can put the washer and nut on. Tighten everything up, repeat on the other side and then your done!!
Amazing how much happier the car is with the rear sway bar properly attached :). Little fixes like this remind me how much fun driving the m5 is!!!
I want to give a shout out to bimmerzone.com for great customer service and a little discount for forum members!
 
#19 ·
Great DIY! Followed the steps and got them installed today, took about 30 minutes.
 
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