[Laidback]

I replaced mine a couple of days ago and it took me a couple of minutes (very happy) and I highly suggest to use gloves during install ( the black goo/ adhesive is kinda messy when not handled properly)...

 

[BillyBimmer]

Replaced by windshield seal yesterday on my Jan 2000 build. It had cracks and was flaking off at top. Thanks to this board for the instructions. Removal was easy once I got it started out. Installation went even quicker. I purchased from Pelican Parts for $37. Thanks to all who contributed info on replacement. :wroom:

 

[bobzbeast]

One again m5board has saved me a bunch of money. This is truly the best source for M5 info on the planet.

I too replaced my windshield trim, last night in an hour. It took me a little longer because the old trim was SO bad. About 45 minutes of that time was the removal and cleanup. I was really surpprised at how easy it was. I used nothing more than a small screwdriver and thumb pressure.

I started at the top right corner and worked my way across the top first and then down the sides. Just make sure you have the first corner seated tightly. The first time across the top it was about 1/8" short when I got to the other side so I had to pull it back out, get it reseated and do it again. Not difficult, just a dumb mistake. What worked best for me was to get the trim laid in place and then push with my thumbs from the bottom side by the windshield and apply pressure as if trying to roll over towards the roof (or the A pillar when going down the sides). I would describe it as more tucking the trim in rather than pushing or forcing it straight down in to the channel.

My body shop wouldn't touch it because the were afraid they would crack the windshield. They insisted that it would probably have to be removed and told me they would have to call their glass specialist.

 

[Panos]

Please do post pics.
Both front and rear rubber seals need replacing on my car. I was told by my SA that the front windshield must be removed in order to replace the rubber seal. And, that there is a chance that the glass could get cracked in the process. This happens so often, according to my SA, that the windshield people have you sign a waiver and he advised that I have cash set aside to buy a replacement windshield just in case.

Is this really a DIY?

1st they scare you into thinking its strictly a job for a pro.

2nd they tell you to set aside some cash, just in case, so when your car is in there you are worried the whole time

Finally, they call you and tell you you ONLY owe $300 for the whole repair and LUCKY you, you do not have to fork over another few hundred for a new windshield. "Oh yeah, we use the best glass guy in town... blah blah... so you're lucky you came here and you don't need a whole new windshield" Now they look like heroes to a laymen :hihi:

I could be a bit pessimistic on the matter, but I've had my stealer experiences.

 

[M540i]

This is a fairly abandoned post, but does anyone know the part number for the rear windshield rubber seal (gasket) and whether or not it's as straight-forward as the front replacement. Any other items necessary for the install would be mush appreciated too. Thanks a bunch!

 

[M540i]

This is the RealOEM page that indicates which pieces to do front and rear window trim. I am a little confused about what would be necessary for my car. As far as I was aware all of our vehicles, be it 540i or M5 had "Burglarproof Glass". Any clarification on this would be great because I would like to do both windows and door seals all at the same time. Thanks. RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 GLAZING SINGLE PARTS

 

[Eric Giles]

This is the RealOEM page that indicates which pieces to do front and rear window trim. I am a little confused about what would be necessary for my car. As far as I was aware all of our vehicles, be it 540i or M5 had "Burglarproof Glass". Any clarification on this would be great because I would like to do both windows and door seals all at the same time. Thanks. RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 GLAZING SINGLE PARTS

Just order the two cheaper parts-covering upper and covering lower. The 'Burglarproof' parts are for are for cars with the bullet resistant glass, which I highly doubt you have.

 

[Rafael Gonzalez]

Thank you for this post,I replaced the front yesterday,it was easier than I expected.It sure looks a lot better.

 

[Perrodulce]

Does this rubber seal also include the part at the bottom where the windshield wipers sit? It is a much wider piece of black moulding. That is cracking on mine as well. Thanks

 

[Rafael Gonzalez]

No, it's just the top and sides all one piece.I also notice yesterday about the bottom.Mine is a little crack,but I can still live with it.What I did realized when I worked on it is to slide the bottom end of the rubber seal under a rubber flap or whatever is call,that are at the bottom corners of the windshield.they come from another rubber seal that start there but goes toward the engine compartment.It's about an inch and a half or so.The reason for this is in case they are in bad shape,so you don't break them.I don't recall reading about that,so now you know my next project,as you can imagine mines were in bad shape and I already had the top part on,so they pretty much broke apart.It really doesn't show that much,I will study that project next.I hope this help you a little bit,English is my second language,so I tried my best,Rafael.

 

[VetteRacer]

Any word on the rear? Same procedure as the front?
Plan to do these soon, once I saw the price and that its a DIY its a no brainer. Rear is really bad, was scared to pick at it and see if it was a window out job or not...
Matt

Edit: Just followed LaidBacks link, mentions in there that the rear is just as easy... Looks like I have something to do next weekend. Assuming dealer has parts in stock and dont want 2 arms for them..

 

[NJ.M5]

tagarooski....I love this board

 

[NJ.M5]

Tried to do this today....unfortunately unsuccessful.

Purchased a new seal from my local dealer (for a shocking 54$...wtf!!?) Taking out my old rubber was amazingly easy, I just ripped it up with my hands. The passenger side went in fairly easily...worked my way across to the driver side and then ran into trouble....the little lip where I guess the adhesive is started to fold and bend and parts of it fell off......I could not for the life of my get the driver side in at that point!

UGH, do you guys think BMW will swap me for a new one? I think mine might have been defective but there is also a possibility that I fudged it up.

Any harm in my driving around seal-less in the meantime? I will keep her out of the rain, but I need to wait until monday to trade out the damaged new seal.



Also.....be sure to have goo-gone for this job, my car was spattered with tons of strands of adhesive which really made a bloody mess! The goo-gone ate it away like a turkey dinner, and it looks fine now. Ugh, what a frustrating day of DIY work though :grrrr:

 

[pmiranda]

Argh, wish I'd read this thread before I let the dealer do it... now my rain sensor isn't working and I suspect a revisit of bad part numbers in the system as I got in 2002. And I'm out hundreds of dollars and an hour of time driving up there and back. Oh well, I had a few chips anyway but those could've been repaired.
Hopefully the rain sensor just needs some programming or I'll be posting about wrong part numbers again tonight :crying:

 

[pmiranda]

So, good news, the one part number now in existence for M5 windshields (at least for the 4 rain sensor/xenon possibilities) does indeed work, My car just had a squashed connector that needed replacing. Still, next time the seal gets to looking chewed up I'll try it myself.

 

[JL21ah]

Replaced my seal last night with the help of my BMW tech friend who originally said that this would require taking the windshield off. I showed him this thread and he brought the new seal over. My old seal was SO bad that we had to shave off all the plastic molding to expose the metal piece underneath. The plastic was crumbling every time we tried to yank on it so we just decided to deal with the straight metal instead. Kind of funny, but a couple of weeks ago, I was looking at my cracked seal one day after work, and two pieces literally cracked off by themselves and I saw them trickle down to the windshield wipers...BAD!!!

My beast is a MY2000 and my previous seal was over 10 years old with moderate sun exposure since I've had it (2008)...so I guess I knew what to expect.

After removing the top parts of the seal with a rubber putty tool, we pulled up the metal pieces on the sides first and then the top portion which proved to be a little tricky as its embedded pretty deep in under the glass...We put the new one in the reverse order. (Top > Sides) This was indeed a very easy procedure, and it turned out very clean and lined up even!

My BMW Tech friend said that you got to be careful in prying up the old seal as to not chip or break the windshield especially in the corners. Now to me, breaking the windshield would take a great amount of force. My perception changed when I had my 2007 Tundra's windshield replaced and was talking to the Safelite guy about how a little rock could chip such a huge and thick piece of glass. He gave me a lightweight tool, and told me to knock gently on my previous windshield to see how fragile they really are. I ever-so-gently tapped the windshield (off my truck) and sure enough, it cracked. I guess when the windshield is out of the frame of the car, it is VERY fragile. Needless to say I felt like Superman...

Great fix! Thanks for the write up and information! :applause:

 

[TheWooginator]

God I love this forum. Adding this to my list of to-do items with the car.

 

[peckbmw]

this is an old thread, but my trim is almost non existent on the top of my windshield. If i start in the corner, will it come out in one piece?

 

[Kevin The Clean 1]

.

 

[vitiokas95]

My Indy tried to charge me 4 labor hours. End up agreeing with 3 hours.

Big "thanks" Fluid Motor Union for crappy and expensive job on my windshield seal.