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Just realized this thread is old, anyone familiar with what’s reasonable for this job in today’s market?

Also, I was wondering how many cars out there with 100k+ kms without any issues (well we can’t knke that really until you take apart and look), but at least for now an estimate of 100+ vechicles still driving on OEM rods would be nice to know as it’s quite possible that only those post here with issues and not those without.

Also, do you guys know if BMW M engineers are on this forum at all?

Gerhard Richter won the prize for engine of the year back in 05 for the S85, is he here?
Haha

Any of his colleagues here? Come on anyone from the team that might know more about hi ga like tolerances and some such things for the rod bearings. Lol

Haha one can dream!
Clearances and tolerances are in BMW TIS. Technical docs for repairs and such.
 

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Hello, My son owns a 2012 135i and needs Rod Bearing replacement, does any one know of any shops in the East coast of Long Island, New York. If any come to mine, please forward the information to [email protected] it would be greatly appreciated.

thanks Jose
 

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As an update, I had my rod bearings replaced this year on my 2000 M5 for $2,400.
 

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Thanks, does anyone know why repair shops are quick to say you need a new engine.
Depends - if you discovered issue too late and kept driving after bearings are spun - you can score camshaft and that basically requires entire lower end rebuild which at that point - replacement engine makes more sense.
 

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Thanks, does anyone know why repair shops are quick to say you need a new engine.
As stated above there may be damage to the crankshaft. Hopefully whoever is telling you that has your best interest in mind and finds it more cost effective for you to get a replacement engine. The N-series of engines are pretty common these days and can be purchased relatively cheap. Did you take the car to M-Chanics?
 

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As an update, I had my rod bearings replaced this year on my 2000 M5 for $2,400.
Hey Dave! My long time BaT friend, HA! You do this as Preventive, or had any signs of wear via an oil analysis? I just sent in my first blackstone analysis, car has about 96K miles, I bought it around 79K miles, and have done 2 oil changes. Interested to see what this report says as it is my first one. I will do them each time from now on to keep an eye on the metals. It's the daily driving in cold winter that concerns me the most about my car and the 10W-60 syrup oil when it's cold. I am always very careful to ensure the car is fully warmed up before putting it back away, and never use it for "right down the street" trips, always take the wife's car for that.
 

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Trizzuth - Hello! I got the car with very few service records, so I had Blackstone look at the oil. It came back with high metal traces, which had me thinking about the rod bearings. Talking to the indy shop I use, the asked if I saw "glitter " in the oil when I did my change. I had, so they mentioned that I might want to do a rod bearing change. They quoted me a decent price, so I did it as a preventative measure. The rod bearings had wear on two of the eight. Not bad, but I am glad I did them. Love the car and just want to drive it without any worries.


All that said, I then get the car back and a CPS issue AND a radiator fan issue pops up within 25 miles. There are lots of people that say don't fix it until it is broke. I can sure see why. Car ran perfect, then replaced the rod bearings, an aux radiator fan and a CPS for $3,500. Deep down inside, I feel that I should have just driven it and not had the thing touched.


Take care!
 

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Trizzuth - Hello! I got the car with very few service records, so I had Blackstone look at the oil. It came back with high metal traces, which had me thinking about the rod bearings. Talking to the indy shop I use, the asked if I saw "glitter " in the oil when I did my change. I had, so they mentioned that I might want to do a rod bearing change. They quoted me a decent price, so I did it as a preventative measure. The rod bearings had wear on two of the eight. Not bad, but I am glad I did them. Love the car and just want to drive it without any worries.


All that said, I then get the car back and a CPS issue AND a radiator fan issue pops up within 25 miles. There are lots of people that say don't fix it until it is broke. I can sure see why. Car ran perfect, then replaced the rod bearings, an aux radiator fan and a CPS for $3,500. Deep down inside, I feel that I should have just driven it and not had the thing touched.


Take care!
Wow you have some great advice here Dave. On my last car, an 01 330i, I lived in preventive maintenance mode, literally fixing everything I could as it was getting worn out, but clearly still working fine. I did this to prevent an occasional stranding on the side of the road and it served me well over the 12 years I had that car as I was only stranded once when my fuel pump went around 170K miles and that was the only item I had not changed preventively.

There were times that I did car work as you say and other things immediately popped up which made me instantly regret touching the car, but I'd say that overall the confidence you get knowing it's all set up and running like a top is worth it (depends on the price!). My least favorite moment was when I changed the CCV valve, put in new plugs and upon reinstallation of everything, something random happened that sent a bad electric signal to my ECU board and fried a few transistors!!!! Had to get a donor ECU board, solder and harvest the transistors off of that and remove the burned and re-solder the harvested ones in and lo and behold it ended up working again! Man that car was a frankenstein. Here is that thread in case you want to see scary things you never want to ever happen to your car.

It would be a big help for me if you could post up your blackstone analysis here so I could compare it to mine once I get the results back. I too am not sure I'd want to dig in and get that job done, and have no clue how I'd feel if my metals were high, that has to be a horrible feeling to live with. I will say that the oil coming out of my M5 was still pretty translucent at around 8000 miles, where as the oil coming out of my 330 used to be pitch black. Maybe chalk it up to piston ring blow by on the 330 as that was a very common issue on all M54's and that car used to love to eat oil.
 
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