Did you check the oil using the dip stick before adding oil?

Failure of those in-sump, oil-level sensors isn't unheard of.

Did you look around for oil, perhaps there's a leak?

Any back-woods hick can test an engine for oil pressure - it's rather elementary with respect to automotive diagnosis techniques. If they can't test, get your car out of there, STAT!




EDIT: I just noticed you're in MD.

If you can, have your car sent to Sarli Motorsports in Millersville. They are excellent with BMW M-cars and european cars in general.

 

Please, please, please, follow Matt's advice.

--Peter

 

Got a weird one here. On Tues got a message on the dash saying "Oil Press Stop Engine!". Heard a small Tapping noise from the engine area. So I put 2 extra quarts of oil in and started the car and no noise. I knew I wasn't in the clear but figures safe enough to finish out my 5 min journey to my job.

Went to the dealer on the way home and it's been there since. They said at first they couldn't diagnose the issue. But just today (Friday) said they beleive there is no oil pressure getting to tot engine due to possible engine damage that they can't tell for certain. They then suggested to get a new engine. I was like what the hell. I get the car serviced all the time there for major service and do oil changes at another BMW service center cause I get a discount.

2003 BMW M5 E39
84K
Has all servicing done

What could be the problem and where does one go from here I dont even know how much a new engine will cost. The dealer suggested he will get me some prices.

I think I should get a second opinion or take it to someone that can diagnose engine on this car. Any thoughts?

1st thing would be to take it somewhere where they can dignose the issue and they can tell or certain. New engine? What's the exact diagnosis? You got $20k lying around on a guess? If they can't tell for certain then run, don't walk.

 

Why did you put in 2 quarts? Was it still low after you poured in one? If so, you have a major oil leak. New engine is overblown, though you can source one from Tischer for $18k, I doubt your dealer will tell you that.

 

The oil pressure switch that brings in that warning is at the bottom of the oil filter. It triggers the warning when the pressure get down to a few psi. I suppose it could be a failed switch or bad connection, but your post says the dealer confirmed the oil pressure was low, which is a bad thing.
Futher diagnosis would need some partial engine dismantling I think, which your dealer does not seem to be interested in doing, since he has jumped straight to "new engine".

 

Yea I checked it and it was low. So I added. I'll give them a call on Monday thanks for the info. Just wish I knew for certain if it is actually engine problems. The guy said he isn't sure but it might be so he is recommending a new engine. He use those exact words. Crazy. Yea I'll let them know that and see if they can check those areas before jumping to conclusion.

I wish you all can see my driving habits I don't drive it on weekends for like 3 years now. I drive my wife's SUV and with kids in the car I'm rarely pushing it pass 75-80 when I'm alone then I open it up a little but nothing crazy. Just weird

 

Yea I'll let them know that and see if they can check those areas before jumping to conclusion.

So you are committed to using this dealership and don't want to listen to other advice regarding a qualified shop that will not be a full-retail solution.

Best of luck!

 

It was low but not crazy low after the first. There was no leaking anywhere.

 

Yep will do that. No I cant stand dealerships period. So beleive me ill be moving on. Also this one is VOB BMW.

 

If you don't have external oil leak, then it's likely the oil pump failed, starving critical engine components. Your rod bearings might be compromised. Have a qualified mechanic look at it soon, run away from the shop that's tossing you a new engine.

 

that shouldn't cause a low-oil issue.


the undertrays on these cars often disguise oil leaks by catching the oil and releasing it aft of the engine bay.

 

WOW,how can a shop that can not test oil pressure install an engine?



Listen to Matt's advice.

Most likely it is only the oil pressure switch in the oil filter housing that is broken.

Is more likely than an oil pump fail on these engines.....

 

1st, change your car shop, engine replacement is the last that you should do after all other options are eliminated.
if the error message was about oil pressure, the problem usually is not the oil level.
did you check the oil level before adding more oil?
start with oil pressure sensor (most common and most easy to fix), then have to check oil pump, try replacing with another and check if there are changes, then check engine bearings, etc.

 

Fellas thanks a lot for your responses it's definately helping me understand what I was thinking is correct, which is they have to tell me for certain not say they not sure and jump to replaced engine. I'll move this car and get a real mechanic to look at it and call that place that someone suggested above. Any more thoughts keep em coming I'm going to who ever with this thread in hand ahaha.

 

This post was also helpful in understanding more :Engine Knock & Oil Pressure - BMW Auto Repair Advice

 

seems very odd to me that they said they cannot check the oil pressure, are you sure thats what they said? all you do is remove the oil pressure switch in the filter housing and install an adapter which connects to either a manual gauge or a pressure sensor and is read out on the gt1 or imib. failure of the oil pump itself seems very unlikely. i would say bad switch but that dosent explain the tapping noise and low oil level.

 

He could simply have run the car low on oil... (NEVER rely on the oil level sender!!) and starved the pump, causing a spun bearing or other issue... then he gets the critical warning, and tosses in 2(!) quarts... Damage done.

 

My guess is you are correct ard. The dealership has tested the oil pressure and can find no faults. Then they heard about the two quarts and have decided it is not worth looking for the damage because it will be there. They are saying new engine because in their vast experience that is the best thing to do. I also don't think when they say new engine it probably is not literal, they probably just mean new to that car. A good used engine.

 

More like they're doing the "deliver the skyhigh repair price and try to flip'm to a new car" method of estimating. Or the "if this guy really wants this fixed we are gonna make it as easy and profitable for us" school of thought. Either way I'd gtfo.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

 

Yea just an update.no they never said they couldn't check engine oil pressure. They said they checked it but pressure isn't getting to the engine for some reason and they think it might be because they maybe internal damage to the engine they can't see which might be causing that. So his recommendation was that.

The engine oil was low before I put in the 2 quarts it wasn't below the the minimum though, at least according to the dip stick. That said I wasn't due for my next oil change for another fee hundred miles but again I always give and take with that cause I always have to add a quart or so in between oil changes anyway.

 

My question is though when you say that adding the oil may have caused the damage, can you explain more on that. I want to make sure I tell who ever what it could be. Also can it damage it to the point of no return? Or is it still fixable?

 

Yea VacMan that's was in the back of my head when he said that. Im always worried when going the dealer route for anything. Gonna get it moved on Monday not to another dealer but a good M mechanic.

 

So they could check oil pressure,but there was none.

Now I understand.

Description was a bit misleading then...

 

Low oil level, I add a quart at the first opportunity. Low oil pressure, I pull over immediately and have the car trailered in. Adding oil doesn't help if an oil pump goes. I hope it's not serious.

 

Too much oil can do bad things but not what has happened to you. Did the pressure warning go away once you added the oil?

 

Holy crap, yes, flat bed that car to another shop stat! I LOL'ed when you said they suggested a new engine.

 

Low oil indicator never came on. Also to another persons question, once I added the oil the pressure signal went away. Whenever oil message comes on I usually add a quart until next oil change. But if you were refering to the oil light (it. Never came on.

 

The picture is becoming clear...

Oil level and pressure alarms are referred to as idiot lights for a reason. They should absolutely NEVER come on, if proper maintenance practices are followed. They're the worst gadget ever invented because if you rely upon them and a $5 sensor, greasy connector, plug or wire crimp fails, you will likely destroy the $25K motor by default. Sensors and related wiring often become defective at least once over the life of the car, sometimes two or more times. When sensors are relied upon you need to plan to buy a new sensor and MOTOR. The low pressure alarm is basically an indicator telling you the motor is being damaged due to low oil, so it's not particularly useful as an alarm unless you're lucky as heck. I've seen this sad situation happen a number of times, by the way.

The mechanical dipstick should be checked every second or third gas fill-up, without exception. Oil consumption can suddenly change due to leak or engine trouble, so you shuoldn't be driving over 500 miles without checking the dipstick. Carry spare oil in the trunk, so you can top off at the gas station. Topoff of 1/4 or 1/2 qt is appropriate. If you're having to use a whole quart, your service strategy is neglectful, reactive and risky. A whole quart low is too much; it'll affect oil pressure and engine life. This goes for street or track, by the way. Oil pickup and resulting pressure/flow is impacted by sloshing, foaming, accel, decel, windage, hilly terrain, lateral G's, wear and other issues. The engine shouldn't have to deal with oil starvation from low oil level too.

NEVER rely upon low oil alarms to tell you when to add oil. They only serve a supplemental (backup) function and they tend to degrade and fail after the car ages and racks up miles. These sensors are quite primitive and subject to malfunction. I believe the Owner's Manual in every car tells you to use the dipstick to check oil.

My cars NEVER needs a full quart added, even when they're leaking oil like a sieve and consuming a qt every 500mi. I add 1/2 qt or less based upon dipstick reading. Some low oil alarms are don't operate until oil level drops a lot, as witnessed by your your need to add a WHOLE quart AFTER the idiot light comes on (you hope). Best of luck, but I think the motor has been damaged due to low oil level. Hopefully it can be affordably repaired.

 

I wouldn't rely on an oil level sensor. In the future, check your oil often, especially since the S62 typically likes to drink it. Mine is an exception thankfully.

 

I think there some truth to what you are saying but not the full picture. First off thanks for your post. Yes I agree I should have checked it in the intervals you mentioned, however what I've relied on is the typical maintence that my BMW service center does for me. So they tell me when I'm up for the next service and I just come in. That said in between the time they mention to comeback I generally would rely on the message that the oil level is low. At that point I would add a quart after checking the level. The message then would not come on before I take it in.

So I would take that into consideration next time for sure. The fact is only drive an average of 100 miles a week. I work extremely close to home and don't drive it on weekends often and as I said before my driving is fairly normal cause im moving 2 kids daily. So I get my joys from the lane changings and corners lmao. It's sad but true. Anyway, maybe what you mentioned could be an issue and just have to take it out from the dealer and have a real mechanic tell me.

Thanks again.

 

I would suggest checking dipstick while fuel is being dispensed at the gas station. I can open my hood, check dipstick, close hood and wipe hands off in less time than it takes to fill up with 15 gallons. The concrete slab at the pump is generally level, so it's the ideal site. If the gas pump doesn't have a locking lever and you don't use the cas cap in the lever trick, figure spending 2 minutes extra to complete this task each month, if you drive 400 mi. I spend that much time sitting at one traffic stoplight.

If the lack of oil pressure is true, a number of engine bearings may be shot and causing this symptom. The mains and rods are most vulnerable.

I've been running Mobil 1 since 1980 when it came in a metal can. My service strategy including frequent level check and topoff has allowed me to reach 300K mi on domestic engines that have seen many thousands of race track miles, without internal rebuild. I never lost a motor before the body rusted off.

 

Gotcha I like that. Will do that.