[Black Hawk]

Another amazing DIY man! Great work!

two questions:
Did you use tq wrench on the spark plug DIY?
Use a tq wrench for any of the DIY?
I personally dont but just asking how you do it.

How dirty was the readiator and or bottom plastic that hold the radiator? Leaves, dirt, etc.?

Thanks 5soko. Interesting you mention torque wrenches. As I have been tearing into the M5, I have noticed seemingly little resistance to loosening things. I was expecting the related T20/25/30 screws for the vanos solenoid replacement to be somewhat difficult to break free….not the case at all. I replaced the H2O pump after working on the solenoids and even those 4 bolts seemed relatively easy to remove. When I replaced the drive belt tensioners and pulleys, again...easy to break free.

Makes me curious if they used torque wrenches when they assembled the car ! To precisely answer your question, yes I have several torque wrenches, but I have not used them on the BMW, with the exception of the lug nuts. That said, one thing is for sure, the parts are more tightly assembled than before I started work on it.

I was actually surprised at the relatively clean nature of my radiator. It is clear from some of the some of the radiator photos that dirt and debris could accumulate along the bottom edge in an amount that would create a loss of cooling capacity.

 

[Smeagol]

Really disappointed that I didn't do some of this stuff myself. Could have saved a lot of money.

 

[5soko]

Thanks 5soko. Interesting you mention torque wrenches. As I have been tearing into the M5, I have noticed seemingly little resistance to loosening things. I was expecting the related T20/25/30 screws for the vanos solenoid replacement to be somewhat difficult to break free….not the case at all. I replaced the H2O pump after working on the solenoids and even those 4 bolts seemed relatively easy to remove. When I replaced the drive belt tensioners and pulleys, again...easy to break free.

Makes me curious if they used torque wrenches when they assembled the car ! To precisely answer your question, yes I have several torque wrenches, but I have not used them on the BMW, with the exception of the lug nuts. That said, one thing is for sure, the parts are more tightly assembled than before I started work on it.

I was actually surprised at the relatively clean nature of my radiator. It is clear from some of the some of the radiator photos that dirt and debris could accumulate along the bottom edge in an amount that would create a loss of cooling capacity.

Interesting! thanks good info.

Yup same here, some of my spark plugs were a little loose from the factory, i didnt use a tq wrench on them when installing, i just tightened them snug, same with the diff, and tranny oil changes.

 

[SliM5]

Did you have a hard time removing the filter housing? I'm in the middle of doing this now, but for some reason, I can't get the filter out. Any tips or pointers?

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[Black Hawk]

Did you have a hard time removing the filter housing? I'm in the middle of doing this now, but for some reason, I can't get the filter out. Any tips or pointers?

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SliM5, I had no issues in removing the oil filter housing (presume that is what you are referring to). I think it took a 24mm socket, but don't hold me to that. No tips or special tricks. Someone may have just over tightened it the last time...

 

[jcolley]

SliM5, I had no issues in removing the oil filter housing (presume that is what you are referring to). I think it took a 24mm socket, but don't hold me to that. No tips or special tricks. Someone may have just over tightened it the last time...

Be very careful with the torque applied to this. I was so frustrated with it I had completely changed the rod bearings out and put the suspension back under the car before I managed to get the filter cap loose. I may have cracked it in the process using a crescent before I went out and bought a 24mm. Now I have the dribbles with a pig-mat diaper and a new filter cap on the way.

 

[SliM5]

I was using a 15/16 socket, which seems to be the same size as 24mm. But, just for peace of mind, I just bought a 24 mm and will try that. I'm so frustrated at this stage, that I don't remember which way to turn the socket to loosen it. Lol

Thanks for the input fellas.
Will update shortly. . .

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[texsn95]

Maybe try a strap-type oil filter wrench on it instead. Much more even way to apply force to it.

 

[SliM5]

Verdict: the filter housing is overtigthened!

I even used a breaker bar to help loosen it, but to no avail. How does a 1 hr job become so difficult? I was only able to drain oil from the filter drain plug. Should I go ahead and drain the remaining oil left in the motor and leave the old filter on until I can tackle it over the weekend? I just hate that I got this far and was punked by a piece of plastic.

The strap sounds like a good idea. Might have to give that a shot.

I was afraid to put anymore pressure for fear of ripping one of the hoses that feed into the filter. Every time I turned the socket, the whole section, cables and hoses, moved.

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[FANTASYX72]

I'm at 70000 now , what do I take care of , I already change all fluids already..


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[confusedxpanda]

Verdict: the filter housing is overtigthened!

I even used a breaker bar to help loosen it, but to no avail. How does a 1 hr job become so difficult? I was only able to drain oil from the filter drain plug. Should I go ahead and drain the remaining oil left in the motor and leave the old filter on until I can tackle it over the weekend? I just hate that I got this far and was punked by a piece of plastic.

The strap sounds like a good idea. Might have to give that a shot.

I was afraid to put anymore pressure for fear of ripping one of the hoses that feed into the filter. Every time I turned the socket, the whole section, cables and hoses, moved.

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I had the same exact problem. The oil filter housing was way overtightened and wouldn't move at all with the socket. I ended up rounding out the plastic 24mm on the oil filter housing and ended up just drilling into it and twisting it off. The new oil filter housing I got has been coming on and off perfectly. I would take a lot of care when trying to remove the overtightened housing, otherwise you could rounded it out like I did. I'm not sure how it became so tight to begin with, but it leads me to believe that the dealer didn't even bother to change the oil filter when I took it in for service before.

 

[Tortuga]

Holy Crap!

I could literally change my oil in my e39 without getting my hands dirty via a top side pump and that OH SO TO BE MISSED oil filter housing right up top...Do all the bottom panels need to be removed or just the one covering the filter, or do the other ones cover the filter panel?

 

[DamoIrl]

Awesome thread - i recently had my 06 done with all the oils mentioned here - plugs , filters etc and was delighted with the difference in here...this thread will defo help others do it themselves

 

[Tortuga]

Over tightened

I had the same exact problem. The oil filter housing was way overtightened and wouldn't move at all with the socket. I ended up rounding out the plastic 24mm on the oil filter housing and ended up just drilling into it and twisting it off. The new oil filter housing I got has been coming on and off perfectly. I would take a lot of care when trying to remove the overtightened housing, otherwise you could rounded it out like I did. I'm not sure how it became so tight to begin with, but it leads me to believe that the dealer didn't even bother to change the oil filter when I took it in for service before.

The E39 used to shear mounts trying to loosen the cap from the factory torque spec: I started just two hand tightening it and never had a leak: but of course it was right there where u could see it...The E85 filter looks an awful lot like the e39 unit simply inverted?

 

[Hotsauce]

You are awesome, confirming I am not attempting this -

 

[tkcm5]

M5 E60 V10 Vanos solenoid maintenance

Hope this is the correct place to post this guy's. Had to fit a replacement engine to the beast as old one suffered pilot error :M5launchuich. After all was done I came across a few issues, one of which were Codes 271C and 271D bank 2 vanos control fault. The car went into "engine reduced power" and idled very rough. It appears if oil changes are not frequent enough, or in my case the replacement unit lay for some time, the vanos solenoids become an issue, mines were reading 0.54 and 0.52 on the bank 2 side, I'm sure most of you now know the readings should be 1.0 at best and 0.6 minimum. With mines not performing I decided to strip them down and investigate, both of them felt rough on rotation, and looked very dirty. I spayed brake cleaner in all the ports, gave them a quick rotation by hand and lubricated them with some engine oil. There after I put 12v across the coil connections on the solenoid and it operated with the internal small shaft moving down. I refitted them to the car, and , all is good. It appears if the coil energizes and the O'rings are serviceable, all they need is a good clean, no money for the stealership here:hihi:

 

[mcipaulr]

what size and points is the oil filter housing

Dealership stripped the 24mm hex and over-tightened -

already drained the oil and then couldn't get oil filter housing off

Anyone know the size of the oil filter housing and if there is a specialty tool to remove it?

I saw some 86.5mm by AST and a 14 and 16 point Lisle tool but was not sure if these would fit?

2006 e60 m5 if its needed

 

[Black Hawk]

mcipaulr, no special are tools required. A 24 mm socket and wrench is all that it takes - provided it was not over tightened, as you indicate. Others have indicated similar problems with over tightening - the housing will crack if too much pressure is applied, be careful. You need a new oil filter housing. Once you have one, if you can't break it free with the traditional methods, you might have to drill it. Good luck !

 

[Sid3ways]

I hate to resurrect this thread once again but I'm due for an oil change and all the cold-season talk has my head spinning. I'm going to change the oil this weekend and would like recommendations on what oil to use for the brutal cold the car will see up here in Ohio in a month or two. :cheers:

 

[Jahangeer]

I hate to resurrect this thread once again but I'm due for an oil change and all the cold-season talk has my head spinning. I'm going to change the oil this weekend and would like recommendations on what oil to use for the brutal cold the car will see up here in Ohio in a month or two. :cheers:

I think the general concensus is 10-60 warm weather, 0-50 Cold. I'll be switching over in Nov.