[MarkieM5]

I hate to resurrect this thread once again but I'm due for an oil change and all the cold-season talk has my head spinning. I'm going to change the oil this weekend and would like recommendations on what oil to use for the brutal cold the car will see up here in Ohio in a month or two. :cheers:

I always stay with factory recommended oil. I use the 10-60TWS and let the car warm up before pushing it.


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[OCD_Pitzy]

Hi there guys. I haven't posted on here before and only recently purchased a very low Km M5. I turn spanners for a living, but on machines that are somewhat larger. I did a quick oil change on the new car and had a bit of a read for any pointers before I started. Every machine is different and have their little quirks. One thing I noticed was the amount of people having issues getting their filter housing off. When I did mine, I recognized the filter housing instantly. This exact design is used on many European trucks, such as Scania and Merc. The best tip for getting them off is to use a single hex or 6 point socket. Deep reach sockets usually are. When putting them back on with the new filter, rubber grease!!! Put a nice amount of rubber grease on that new o-ring. That way it won't groan and screech like a 2 dollar Phillippino hooker, and come of with ease next time. Would a dealer do this??? HAHAHA. Not a chance.

Another interesting thing I've come across regarding oil and these engines is, when I got the car it had very good service history, to the dealer every two years but only having traveled less than 6000KM in that time. The oil had done a little over 3000KM when I got it, but was close to two years old. It has always had genuine Castrol TWS oil. After driving less than 500km, I had lost half a liter of oil!!! This was a combination of cruising, idling, spirited driving. Then I changed the oil and have done around 800KM so far and it just dropped from reading 1.0L to 0.9L in the last few minutes of driving before I parked it up the other weekend. This is a much more reasonable amount of oil consumption. The old oil wasn't dirty, wasn't contaminated, I took a sample and had it added to our sampling at work. The oil was just old. The lovely folks at the dealership here tell me that this car is serviced based off KM, not time (apart from the brake fluid) But I wouldn't leave the oil for any more than a year in an engine like this. I have seen similar things to this many times over the years during my work, but this is just another example for this specific vehicle.

Anyway, I hope that makes enough sense. This is a really good forum you guys have going, always enjoy reading, spent many weeks and months reading while researching and looking for a M5 of my own. Just don't forget that rubber grease on those oil filter housing o-rings.


Pitzy

 

[White94RX]

By the way, there are tons of techs at dealers that lube the oring on the oil filter cap...

 

[OCD_Pitzy]

In this part of the world, every job has a set time, down to the minute. When this is the case, I have my doubts how many actually are. But wiping a bit of old oil on the o-ring is going to help the filter cap screw on to the housing nicely and even get a fairly accurate torque, but it's a different story when taking it off two years later. Rubber grease is a completely different animal. The dealership that maintained my car before I purchased it has a very very good reputation here. Even several prestige car workshops have told me directly how good they are. Yet when I went to remove the drain plug from the filter housing/cap, it was that tight I had to use a 3 foot long snap on 1/2 inch ratchet, and ultimately ended up loosening and removing the whole filter cap, without the drain plug even looking like it was going to budge.

 

[manek]

Pitzy, I am Pilipino and am quite dumbfounded why you would use such a derogatory analogy degrading a specific race in this forum. I know you were trying to be funny, but please keep those remarks to yourself.

 

[OCD_Pitzy]

Seriously? I wasn't talking about every person that comes from the Philippines. Just the same as if I said Thai or American or Australian. Talk about the cheap Australian hookers, why would I take offence? I wouldn't. There is basically no race wars or fights over here, because everyone is from somewhere different. I'm not sure if people from other counties realize exactly what I'm talking about. You can't until you spend quite a lot of time living in society here. The same as people who are born here don't realize how multicultural this country is until they spend a lot of time living in society in other counties. The world has become far too sensitive. I better not mention my new black Breyton wheels I just bought, the NAACP will be after me.

 

[mchickenwing]

tks for all the posts and learning so much here

 

[OCD_Pitzy]

Back to the oil.................

I have also read a lot of discussion on when and how many miles/km should be allowed for all service items, but little talk of 'adverse operating conditions'. Not all manufactures call it the same thing, but they pretty much all have it. Things like oil and filter will go from the recommended 15,000km down to 7,500km. Brake fluid goes from maximum of 24 months down to 12 months. Air filter from 45,000km or 36 months, down to 15,000km. Diff oil from 'life' fill, down to 60,000km. I've even come across timing belts going from 165,000km down to just 60,000km.

These are just examples from different manufactures, and differs between them all. Dealers never talk about this stuff because they don't want to tell customers that servicing costs may actually be over double what they were expecting. It gets interesting when you look at what the manufactures call 'adverse' conditions. "Driving on snow-melted roads". "Driving on dusty roads". "Repeated short trips in bellow freezing temperatures". "Driving in hot temperatures". (which is 30C by the way) "Sustained high speed driving". "Driving when exposed to salty air". "Driving in hilly areas". "Frequent sudden application of brakes". "Operation under excessive load".

These are just examples from various major car manufactures, but hopefully it gives a few people a little more information when deciding what to change and how often.

 

[CHARIOT]

I don't see a lot of diff related DIYs which surprises me with all of the complaints of clunkiness & noises from the rear. Anyone have a DIY for the diff bushings or carrier adjustment (shimming) to get rid of the free play/backlash in the drivetrain that causes the "m-clunk"? I've got the parts, just was curious on whats all involved.

 

[OCD_Pitzy]

I don't see a lot of diff related DIYs which surprises me with all of the complaints of clunkiness & noises from the rear. Anyone have a DIY for the diff bushings or carrier adjustment (shimming) to get rid of the free play/backlash in the drivetrain that causes the "m-clunk"? I've got the parts, just was curious on whats all involved.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...letin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/160242-differential-input-shaft-sealing-diy.html

From page two, this talks a little about changing the bushings in the carrier. A couple at the back and one at the front. Without the special tools, it would be much easier if you drop the whole rear subframe. That way you can do the bushings for the subframe itself at the same time.

 

[DB EJ6]

Very interesting thread!!

 

[geldingmakr]

Thanks!

 

[S85FTW]

Invaluable threat for the community.

 

[rt7085]

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...letin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/160242-differential-input-shaft-sealing-diy.html



From page two, this talks a little about changing the bushings in the carrier. A couple at the back and one at the front. Without the special tools, it would be much easier if you drop the whole rear subframe. That way you can do the bushings for the subframe itself at the same time.

There is a special bushing removal/ installation tool from BMW that you would need to use. I am having mine done in spring. This is the sole reason for not doing it myself. Big pain.

 

[wheelspin]

Blackhawk, thanks for the amazing documentation. I wanted to add, at least for the 2006 (which doesn't have the magical 2nd oil drain plug) that the TIS lists the torque ranges as:

Oil Filter Cap to House (24mm socket): 25Nm ~ 18.5 ft-lbs
Oil Drain Bolt to Cap (6mm Hex): 10Nm ~8 ft-lbs
Oil Drain Plug (6mm Hex): 25Nm ~18.5 ft-lbs

Again, thanks for the DIYs. Now on to my diff :grin

 

[Mdivision]

What do you use to bleed the Vanos after finish? Any special tool? Thanks

 

[M5SuperCharged]

Hi guys i am new to the forum looking to do a diff oil service on my M5 too

i have been checking the part number above

83222282583

which shows that its not for the E60 M5 but for other model cars on Bmw parts website realoem

link to oil info click the link to see the oil compatibility its for all other cars but the M5 E60

the correct part number for the Diff oil seems to be 83222365988

link to oil info for correct oil click here to see the compatibility list for this diff oil

can anyone share there input

i have spoken to Bmw also they have confirmed the same

 

[Redleg9]

83222365988 seems to be correct, or whatever BMW part number supersedes it. It’s diff fluid with friction modifier. I’ve used Redline for four years on my car. There’s a few brands out there that claim they have the FMs, but they start chattering after a few miles, Redline and BMW packaged fluid seem to work best, but other have had success with Castrol (I think BMW is repackaged Castrol anyway). Stay away from liqui moly, it didn’t work for my old E60 M5 and had to drain it after a few miles. The chatter would not go away. RealOEM.com - Part Search

 

[M5SuperCharged]

83222365988 seems to be correct, or whatever BMW part number supersedes it. It’s diff fluid with friction modifier. I’ve used Redline for four years on my car. There’s a few brands out there that claim they have the FMs, but they start chattering after a few miles, Redline and BMW packaged fluid seem to work best, but other have had success with Castrol (I think BMW is repackaged Castrol anyway). Stay away from liqui moly, it didn’t work for my old E60 M5 and had to drain it after a few miles. The chatter would not go away. RealOEM.com - Part Search

Thanks for your reply

i won’t use the liqui moly

I wonder what effect it can have on the M5 diff for those that have added the other part number oil to their car because it doesn’t specify the E60 M5

will get the 83222365988 oil ordered in and diff plugs

 

[horse86]

I just did mine and went with OEM fluid. Didn't want to chance it