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Clutch change DIY with pics

105K views 110 replies 52 participants last post by  jskylarwilson  
#1 · (Edited)
For you,Peter!:cheers:
These are pics from my beast when I changed the flywheel and rms 2 weeks ago.Also some pics from last weekend's clutch,rms and propshaft refurb of a boardmember's beast...

A car lift is very handy for this one,but it also works on jack stands(as seen in the pics)
First disconnect the battery.Remove both plastic undertrays.
Disconnect the O2 sensors(mark the connectors to plug them right together again).
Remove the exhaust(if you still have the original one piece from the manifolds back,congratulations,you need an extra pair of hands then!).
Also a thing to consider is to cut the exhaust after the resonators and connect it later with suitable clamps again(so at least the mufflers stay in the car).
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Remove the heat shields that cover the propshaft.

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Mark propshaft position to the diff flange and to the guibo and remove the nuts and bolts(new ones for attachment recommended).Bolts on the guibo 140NM tightening torque.

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Remove the nuts from the center bearing of the propshaft and pull the propshaft out.

Disconnect the neutral switch and reverse switch.

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Remove the wiring harness from the gear box and remove the rpm sensor.

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Remove the clutch slave cylinder(now a good time to install a new one).

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Disconnect the shifter rod(the support arm comes later when engine and gearbox are already lowered,is easier to get the pin of the support arm on the gearbox out then).

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Support the gearbox(with a jack or a lifter if you use a car lift) and remove the gearbox support bolts from the chassis.
Use a flat pice of wood under the oilpan(important,otherwise the engine rests on the center steering linkage when it is lowered).
Lower slowly engine and gearbox(pay attention to the slave cylinder and the wiring loom that it won't be damaged.
Remove the pin of the shifter support arm.
loosene all bolts that connect gearbox and engine,including bolts for starter!All of them are Torx E12 exept the small ones on top of the gearbox,they are E11.A set of a few long and short extensions and joints for the ratchet is quite handy here!

After removing the bolts,pull the gearbox out(sometimes you need a large screwdriver to seperate engine and gearbox from each other and pay again attention that you don't destroy andy other parts or wires or lines while pulling it out.


Remove the pressure plate(tightening torque:25NM) and disc.
Change the throw out bearing(use the clutch grease on the sleeve),clean with brake cleaner new pressure plate and flywheel,if the flywheel has some heat spots,sand it a bit.Center the clutch disc and bolt down the new pressure plate(over cross,step by step),remove the locking plate from the pressure plate.
Put in gearbox and bolt down all removed parts.



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#2 · (Edited)
Changing flywheel and rear main sealing....

See the steps for changing the clutch.
There is a special tool needed(BMW part no:114180 ) or grind down a long Torx T60 by yourself for it.
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I do not use the flywheel lock tool for it to block the flywheel,but one of the bolts that hold the tranny in place and a screwdriver on the teeth for starter.

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Tightening torque of the bolts:105NM
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Rear main sealing change:

Remove engine oil.
Remove the bolts that hold the cover in place and pull out cover with Sealing.
The sealing is quite easy to push out with hammer and screw driver.
To get the new sealing in,use a piece of wood and hammer it careful in.
Use a new gasket for the housing.
Tighten the M6 bolts with 10NM,the M8 bolts with 22NM.
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#89 ·
I Can definitely recommend to remove the crank sensor in the gearbox before removing it. Mine got caught and destroyed by the edge of the flywheel during dismantling, so that added an extra $100 in unforeseen expenses.. :(
 
#5 ·
I believe in his OP he said it was a friends beast he was working on and thats what the pix are from.
 
#13 ·
Would be great idea! Bentley should have added the M5 to their books. It would be even greater if BMW would offer something like this on a CD for like a $100 instead of the TIS they have.
 
#14 ·
Rather Pizza and Vodka:biggrin:
Actually it took only time on both cars because almost every wear item that is there and you can change with the job was done.Like all shifter bushings,support arm bushings,shift linkage joint,bearing on the gearbox side in the propshaft,guibo,propshaft center bearing,rear main sealing,clutch slave cylinder,exhaust mounts,...

Rather do a job once and have it done than having to pull it apart again due to a 10 or 20$ item.
Is at least my attitude and also the attitude of some mates I got.
Even if it is not broken,but worn,fix it before it causes more trouble:biggrin:
 
#15 ·
Another Nice DIY write up again vantaam5! Cheers man.
 
#17 ·
Only my way to say THANKS to the board and its members!

Our community saved me so much money and time hunting down problems!
Here are so many great members where I found online and real life friendships as well!
Whenever I need help with my beast there is someone around to help me out:M5thumbs:

It is give and take,isn't it?;)
 
#19 · (Edited)
Pretty much a good writeup Vantaam.. Not sure i can do clutchwork all by myself but i'll be sure to consult this DIY if i ever needed to do so..
 
#38 ·
Thanks so much! I will have to study this and TIS and get the parts in front of me for a bit before I feel comfortable doing it. I may try to have someone who has done it before do it with me the first time. If only you were stateside!

Thanks again. A great DIY contribution to the Board!

--Peter

Just fly Tim and I up to NY and we will take care of it for you! hahaha.

We (90% He) have done 3 of them now.
 
#23 ·
Great post, Raikku. You've contributed so much in the area of DIY for this board!

Not only do the Fins have some of the best metal I've listened to, but apparently, they can work on cars, too.

Cheers!
 
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#24 ·
Great post, Raikku. You've contributed so much in the area of DIY for this board!

Not only do the Fins have some of the best metal I've listened to, but apparently, they can work on cars, too.

Cheers!
They can drive too :

Hannu Mikkola, Ari Vatanen, Pentti Arikkala, Timo Salinen, Simo Lampinen, Timo Makinen, Marku Alen, Juha Kankenen, Tommi Makinnen etc etc (Sorry for the bad spelling.... )

Check them out !
 
#31 ·
Kumaran,you forgot Markus and Sebastian Gröholm,mate!:)
Not enough letter 'n's in their names to be true Finnish Rally drivers for me :7:
 
#27 · (Edited)
Few more pics...

New guibo with bolts and nuts,gasket for the propshaft velocity joint to diff,propshaft center bearing and next to it the small propshaft bearing for the gearbox shaft(a real bugger this one to change,will write it up in a propshaft rebuild DIY soon):

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Better pic how to mark the Guibo(the arrows on it have to face to the flanges and the part number faces to the back of the car for installation):

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New shifter bushings:

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New clutch disc.pressure plate,throw out bearing,slave cylinder and ball bearing in the crank:
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#35 ·
I thought your favorite part was the seized header bolts?

hahaha.