How to Remove the Front M5 Bumper

XrayMD · Feb 4, 2006

Try this: http://www.louv.tv/cars/m5/ducts/

It's an easy job, but a little easier with two people.
:cheers:

Misterfive · Jan 26, 2011

XrayMD said:
Try this: http://www.louv.tv/cars/m5/ducts/

It's an easy job, but a little easier with two people.
:cheers:

This link is no good, got another link?

mossy · Feb 4, 2006

Hi,
It was only last weekend I removed my UK spec front bumper from my M5,

Remove three screws from each front wheel liner,
Remove a whole load of screws that hold the bell pan to the bottom of bumper,
Remove two large "torx" screws that hold the bumper to the car, located vertically at the top of the lower grill,
Pull bumper forward BUT NOT RIGHT OFF as you have to reach in and disconnect the pipe for the headlight washers and the wires for the fog lights.
Then pull it right off while making sure it is not snagged on the wheel well liners.

Assuming you are replacing the bumper you will have to remove the aluminium panel from inside the bumper, this is held on with some plastic thingies that are behind the rubbing strips on each corned of the bumper, if you tap the pin in the middle if these thingies towards the front of the bumper the thingies will release.

pureretro · Jan 26, 2011

I just did this over the weekend and the grease marks are still there under my nails....so.....

1. Remove the 3 hex head bolts (8mm) from each of the wheel liners. These are the ones on the front side of the wheel well, around midway height of the wheel. There is NO NEED to jack up the car, just turn the wheel each way for access.

2. Remove the 4 hex head bolts (10mm) from the wheel liner from bottom of car. You'll need a longer socket to access this. These 4 hold the same plastic liner in place. I believe it's called an "Engine Compartment Liner", but the part number is 51712694832 just for reference.

3. With wheels turned, you can actually just remove both left and right pieces.

4. Undo the fog light electrical connector as they'll be visible once #3 is complete.

5. Undo the Torx bolt that holds the bumper in place. You'll see them only if are looking UPWARDS from under the car. They are silver in color, and located on the top edge of the air intake. I think it may be a T45 size, available from Sears.

6. Once the Torx bolt is removed, yank the bumper forward (put some towel or sheeting on floor to rest your bumper) from EITHER of the edges. Note there is a catch on both sides. Some force is expected.

7. Don't remove the entire bumper just yet. Or if you do, rest it AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to the car.

8. Undo the headlight washer hose. Close to the source end of the hose, you'll find a quick-release clip. Just pull with your nails or a pair of needle nose pliers. Plastic is small and brittle, be careful.

9. If you have PDC, there will be 4 wires connecting to each sensor. The connector has a clip which you'll need to undo. Note they all face different directions.

10. Once the hose/wires and loose, remove the whole bumper.

Installation is easier with 2 people as you'll need to align the side "catch". You could stack some books to hold up the bumper to the correct height, so it'd be easier to maneuver.

Good luck!

zed.inc · Oct 12, 2013

pureretro said:
I just did this over the weekend and the grease marks are still there under my nails....so.....

1. Remove the 3 hex head bolts (8mm) from each of the wheel liners. These are the ones on the front side of the wheel well, around midway height of the wheel. There is NO NEED to jack up the car, just turn the wheel each way for access.

2. Remove the 4 hex head bolts (10mm) from the wheel liner from bottom of car. You'll need a longer socket to access this. These 4 hold the same plastic liner in place. I believe it's called an "Engine Compartment Liner", but the part number is 51712694832 just for reference.

3. With wheels turned, you can actually just remove both left and right pieces.

4. Undo the fog light electrical connector as they'll be visible once #3 is complete.

5. Undo the Torx bolt that holds the bumper in place. You'll see them only if are looking UPWARDS from under the car. They are silver in color, and located on the top edge of the air intake. I think it may be a <STRIKE>T45</STRIKE> T50 size, available from Sears.

6. Once the Torx bolt is removed, yank the bumper forward (put some towel or sheeting on floor to rest your bumper) from EITHER of the edges. Note there is a catch on both sides. Some force is expected.

7. Don't remove the entire bumper just yet. Or if you do, rest it AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to the car.

8. Undo the headlight washer hose. Close to the source end of the hose, you'll find a quick-release clip. Just pull with your nails or a pair of needle nose pliers. Plastic is small and brittle, be careful.

9. If you have PDC, there will be 4 wires connecting to each sensor. The connector has a clip which you'll need to undo. Note they all face different directions.

10. Once the hose/wires and loose, remove the whole bumper.

Installation is easier with 2 people as you'll need to align the side "catch". You could stack some books to hold up the bumper to the correct height, so it'd be easier to maneuver.

Good luck!

Fixed.

Thanks for the detailed steps.

Kevin The Clean 1 · Jan 27, 2011

I definitely want to remove mine this summer...

Torquey5 · Jan 27, 2011

Definitely a 2 person job, but not too hard. Follow the instructions and you'll be fine, pretty straight forward.

pureretro · Jan 28, 2011

2 person job for the first time, but OK if you prop up the bumper to the right height with some yellow pages. That's the last time I ask my wife to help with the car. Now she's discovered the go fast parts I constantly slap on.

D-RodM5 · Jan 28, 2011

pureretro, thanks for the info! i wanted to do mine this past summer but the cold weather moved in too quickly...i might add to yours with some pics and tips...maybe i'll get around to it this summer

Roninparadise · Feb 11, 2011

to grill or not to grill by yourself

Oh now thats just great!! Now you guys post something after I paid my body shop guy 60.00 to do the job for me and put on my new grill piece from Slimm.....I watched them and it was much easier with 2 guys on each side:=)

lugnuts · May 24, 2011

is this the removal of just the cover or the whole assembly including the metal impact bar?

rao · May 24, 2011

It will be the whole assembly. It is a pretty easy job. Since you are local, let me know if you want some help tackling it - I had mine off and on many times setting up the intercooler, replacing the AUX fan etc.

lugnuts · May 26, 2011

Thanks I will let you know plus I still want to check out that car of yours.

ACHTUNGM5 · May 24, 2011

If these are OEM BMW part numbers:

Air Duct Left: 51-11-7-890-013
Air Duct Right: 51-11-7-890-014

Then why would they not be stock for the M5?
Or are the parts from/for a different car?

wentouch · May 24, 2011

^ Those are the correct parts for the E39 M5, but were only available stock on the E39 M5 across the pond like the floating rotors.

caspian65 · May 25, 2011

I just replaced my aux. fan today and removing the front bumper was ridiculously easy.

bimmerule · May 26, 2011

Where do the brake ducts sit? Do they fit entirely inside the aluminum duct housing or extent from the rear of the housing towards the brakes?

pureretro · May 26, 2011

bimmerule said:
Where do the brake ducts sit? Do they fit entirely inside the aluminum duct housing or extent from the rear of the housing towards the brakes?

They fit entirely inside the rather flimsy housing, maybe with an inch or so sticking out the front. That way, they line up pretty close to the sink drain holes. Conversely, if they extend to the rear (which I'm not sure is possible), you risk some tire rubbing.

pmiranda · Jun 5, 2011

FYI, The two big bolts are actually T-50, but a T-45 will do in a pinch... just don't put much force on them or they'll strip out since they are soft aluminum bolts. I need to pull my front bumper cover to see if I can epoxy some magnets on the inside to hold on my front license plate to get rid of the fix-it ticket without drilling any holes

INFAMOU$ · Sep 21, 2011

Thanks for this thread.. need to remove these UGLY fog lights that were installed! May even tackle this tonight

97m301m5 · Sep 26, 2011

Bumper cover vs assembly removal

I need to replace a damaged bumper cover. I know I can take off the whole assembly with the torx screws and liner screws, but it seems I will need to remove the plastic rivets under the black impact guards after it is off anyway.

Is there any reason, if my goal is to replace the cover, to not just leave the metal support in place and take out the rivets (grind or whatever since I have a new bumper and new rivets) to remove the cover only?

mwmwmwm · Sep 27, 2011

97m301m5 said:
I need to replace a damaged bumper cover. I know I can take off the whole assembly with the torx screws and liner screws, but it seems I will need to remove the plastic rivets under the black impact guards after it is off anyway.

Is there any reason, if my goal is to replace the cover, to not just leave the metal support in place and take out the rivets (grind or whatever since I have a new bumper and new rivets) to remove the cover only?

You can reuse the rivets. Some have a head so you can pull the pin back and out. Others have to be punched through, retrieve your pin and reuse. Once the pins are out, the rivets will come out.

pmiranda · Sep 26, 2011

:confused3
What black plastic rivets? I'm pretty sure everything up front comes apart with screws and bolts... The only rivets I can think of are holding the "pork chop" to the forward piece of the fender liner, but that comes as an assembly.

97m301m5 · Sep 26, 2011

I believe there are expanding rivets that hold the cover to the aluminum support underneath the black plastic exterior trim pieces on the leading edge of the bumper.

This article references them: 540i Sport.com--DIY M5 Front Bumper Parts

FlyBMW · Oct 21, 2011

I reinstalled the bumper and now do not remember how wheel liners are aligned to wing of the car...
Could someone post a pic of how it should look like?

KingJaffeJoffer · Jan 3, 2014

Removed and re-installed the front bumper a few days ago. The instructions in post #5 are spot on. But, here are some visual aids as well.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

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The ESS supercharger installation manual. Pics 7-10 show the locations of the bolts and screws to be removed and the washer hose and fog light connections. The four 10mm screws on either side are not visible unless the car is jacked up, but you can remove them by feel (step 2 of the instructions). For the washer hose, the clip is a plastic C/horseshoe clip. Just push on the ends with your thumb and it easily backs off.<o

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Catch referenced in step 6 of instructions (#1 slides on/off #2). <o

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I removed the bumper alone and my observations follow.<o

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After bolts and screws were removed, I popped the hood as you can get a firm grip on the center of the bumper here.<o

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Then, I gradually worked the bumper forward by pulling from one side and the center and then switching to the other side.<o

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Right hand at B, left hand at A. I found that a half-kneeling position worked best for leverage and balance. The catch is at C.
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Then, over to the other side with hands switched.<o

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Takes a little longer solo, but definitely doable. Re-install can be done solo, too, but everytime I’d get the fender into one catch, it would wiggle out when I tried to slide the other side into the opposite catch. After 5 mins of this, I had my son hold the first catch in place while I did the other. Took 1 min with the extra pair of hands. <o

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D-RodM5 · Jan 4, 2014

Dunno about anyone else, but I also found that putting the bumper back on is easier without the headlight lamp units on.

CarbonCopy · Jan 4, 2014

Agreed, it's hard enough to support the bumper and get the side into the tracks without scratching the paint below the side-markers. Short of headlamp removal I found you can unbolt just the top 2 of the 4 retaining bolts holding the headlight assembly. Then push the tops of the lights back. This will open a bit more of a gap below allowing the bumper and rubber seal to slide underneath. The lights may need slight re-alignment after pulling them back.

D-RodM5 · Feb 1, 2014

I know for a fact if you search you'll find a DIY with plenty o pictures on how to remove the bumper. It's actually pretty straight forward.

Angrydog · Feb 2, 2014

I've just attempted this and failed. Either I'm useless, or something else is wrong. I'm banking on me being useless.

I couldn't see the torx bolts. Imo the car needs to be in the air to do this Job

I

KingJaffeJoffer · Feb 2, 2014

You cannot find the T50 bolts? Post up the exact problem that you are having and we will get it sorted. Car need not be in air and all info that you need for removal is in this thread.

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Angrydog · Feb 2, 2014

I can't see the bolts as I cannot get my head far enough under the car to see them.

KingJaffeJoffer · Feb 2, 2014

My finger is touching the right bolt in this pic. Just kneel in front of the bumper and it is recessed in front of the bumper grill.

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How to Remove the Front M5 Bumper

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