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Rod Bearing DIY with pics inside

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254K views 327 replies 77 participants last post by  OFPmoto  
V
#1 · (Edited)
Gentlemen,tomorrow is the day!Will drop my oil pan on the beast and replace my rob bearings.Some may say I'm paranoid,but this seems to be the only thing that really kills our engines.So I just change them on my 80K miles beast with stock RPM limit.
Also it was not that expensive(less than 500$ for parts) and it is worth to me rather than having to buy a new engine.
Will update with pics and maybe a short first starting video as soon as work is done.

Thanks to PHakes for the rod clearence data he sent me!

Picked up all my parts from the dealer today,so here are the first pics....sorry, crappy pics due to mobile camera...

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http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/6811/02102009001.jpg
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N
#2 ·
Wow, what a project. Sounds really interesting.

BTW - your picture doesnt work
 
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V
#7 ·
Thanks guys for the motivating words!
The job itself does not bother me at all,am only a bit scared what I might find(wear on crank,stuff in oil pan,...).And the plan is to drive home with the car in the evening:D
 
F
#8 ·
I'm guessing header and x-pipe install when you put it all back together. Sound like fun to me! :checkeredflag:
 
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V
#9 ·
Not yet in the mood for that stuff,have to take out my tranny soon due to a leaking rear main sealing and also have to do diff sealing.Will throw these things in when I'm on it,I guess.But the we wil see.First the mechanical issues sorted out,then time for the performance parts.And the winter is long here in the north...:D
 
#10 ·
Looking forward to the update -

Good luck!

Dave
 
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R
#12 ·
Cant wait, I will do this when I hit 80k. Please post all the part numbers and everything and update the first thread so i can print it! ;) Thank you so much for going out of your way to show us this DIY.
 
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M
#13 ·
I can't wait !

Actually it IS tomorrow in Norway now !!!
 
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V
#14 · (Edited)
Guys,be patient!
After having breakfast now,I go to the workshop and start...
Unfortunately no Internet there,so you have to wait till late evening today for updates

BTW,has anyone a good shrink for me if I find something unpleasant in my engine?ouich
Maybe should take some Vodka along to forget what I have seen:haha:
 
O
#25 ·
Although how the bearings look certainly justifies the work.. I dont know how to convenience my mechanic I want to do that as a preventative maintenance..:)
great pics.. :cheers:
 
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V
#18 ·
So,guys pulled them all and does not look that bad,but good time to change anyway!
Send updated pics later....

Thanks to Sipi and Mailman(dualfun) for their emotional support:goldcup:cherrsagaicherrsagaicherrsagaicherrsagai

But someone gotta do the work anyway....

Put it all back together tomorrow,now off to the bar with my social group:2::2:
 
J
#20 ·
Awesome. Glad someones finally taking on the task! Are you replacing the lower half only? I wish you the best of luck! I think i might be doing mine soon too, maybe over winter time!
 
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V
#21 ·
Gentlemen,update!
Measured everything today,my rods are ok and my crank also.

For you DIYers out there that job is really a PITA!

Now a short write up to the earlier pics:
First I dropped the lower oilpan,then took the gear of the oilpump away,the snorkels as well,the oil solenoides have to be also removed et voila,oilpump comes out.
Next I removed the belts,took away the bracket to the oilpan from A/C and the A/C belt tensioner.Also the powerssteering pump has to be removed.
I also took the spark plugs away to turn the engine later more easy.
On the oilpan the bracket for thhe dipstick and the a oilline on the driverside have to be removed.

Next task is to get the grrrrrrrgrrrrrrrsubframe out.

Image
 
V
#22 ·
For the subframe the steering box has to be seperated from the tie rods,then unbolted from the subframe.Sway bar linkages and headlight level sensor away,the +cable hung out of the heatshield and the thrust arms and control arms removed from the subframe.

Now it is a good time to think of a propper engine support like engine crane.

After that,remove enginemounts,oilline bracket for powersteering and take out the six bolts that hold the subframe on the chassis.
Congratulations,your subframe is out:happybirt
Now it is an easy task to remove the oilpan.

And if anyone writes anything about an Eibach swaybar,I don't need it!!!!!

After all these steps,that is what I saw....
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The oilpump in all its glory(will be rebuilt before it gets back in)

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Steering box

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M
#24 ·
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V
#23 ·
And some more pics.....
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These are my rod bearings,more pics will follow,but these are the worst!It is easy to feel the layers that have been gone

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Will put the car back together on Tuesday,then more pics:cheers:
 
V
#26 ·
Think it is a good task to do that,would be a big chance they fail within the next 10-20K(concerning the grade of wear I found)
And no questions about which oil,please,because that is BS!ouich
The car was always driven warm before reving and oil changed too often.
What kills the bearings is the piston speed and the force that is applied to the crank above 6000 rpm.That is something about the layout of the S62 and not really about the oil you run.
Everyone who considers to do that,it is a good task to keep your block and crank alive and have a more reliable engine(and anyway cheaper to replace a blown engine).

If it is a DIY,good luck,takes a lot of time(had no carlift,so even longer).
If a shop does it,I believe it is not cheap.
 
O
#27 ·
I totally agree,the cost is not comparable to fixing a blown engine or buying a used one.
Did you measure the thickness of the old bearings and compare it to the new set? . I am turning 80k miles soon and your thread will give me nightmares till probably will end up getting the job done
 
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V
#28 · (Edited)
Sorry if it gives you nightmares!
No,I did not compare how much the old ones were worn.
It is no wonder if quite a few under 100k engines die on trackdays or hard driving if the bearings looked like mine!
We all have seen the blown engine threads,I think.
This is why I started the replacement(and maybe I was just bored:2: )....
Was really curious how they look and am happy that I need only the bearings and a few sealings....
 
N
#29 ·
Vantaa,

To tackle that size of job you must have some mechanical training? Or balls of steel.

Neil
 
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