Whews...Finally replace CPS exhaust - Bank 2 (Cyl 5-8)

Jim Green · Jul 12, 2008

Glad you got it sorted..........see that you went at it from underneath.......I did mine from above, but I don't think there's much difference in times. Just that from above leads to more cuts and bruises............LOL.

J Irwan Discussion starter · Jul 12, 2008

Jim,

Which CPS did you replace from the top in your case?

Regardz,

J Irwan

J Irwan Discussion starter · Jul 12, 2008

Comparison of the 2 CPS units (new revised part and OEM)

And here is another pic that might give you an idea how much deep the screw goes in. (when you got to the last 5-6mm then it can be turned by finger

).

Regardz,

J Irwan

KevinM · Jul 12, 2008

Nice write-up and pictures. Way to give back to the community!:cheers:

Tiauguinho · Jul 12, 2008

This should be linked on the DIY.

Thanks for the write up!

ard · Aug 3, 2008

Done.

Thanks!

MMTuning · Aug 3, 2008

now, how does BMW have their cyl arrangment? This meaning, what sides are what cylinders? I thought the drivers side or left side was 1-4 and the pass side is 5-8 or do I have these reversed?

gsfent · Aug 3, 2008

Yup, you have it reversed for U.S. cars.
Regards,
Jerry

s328 · Aug 4, 2008

Thank you for the very informative post. I have exactly the same codes:
0B - Exhaust Camshaft Pos Sensor #5-8
A2 - Crankshaft/Camshaft Pos Sensor correlation #5-8
B9 - Exhaust Camshaft VANOS Position control #1-4

and I am planning to change the CPS. The question though is that I do not know how to deal with that last code: "Exhaust Camshaft VANOS Position control #1-4", what can cause this? One more thing: with these codes on my PEAKE reader I have no SES light. It really looks that E8 code triggers the light.

rroberrto · Aug 5, 2008

I had the b9 and nothing else, no SES light either. Replaced the exhaust CPS on bank 1 and a couple of drive cycles later the fault cleared itself. So it looks like you need both banks done to clear all these faults.

s328 said:
Thank you for the very informative post. I have exactly the same codes:
0B - Exhaust Camshaft Pos Sensor #5-8
A2 - Crankshaft/Camshaft Pos Sensor correlation #5-8
B9 - Exhaust Camshaft VANOS Position control #1-4

and I am planning to change the CPS. The question though is that I do not know how to deal with that last code: "Exhaust Camshaft VANOS Position control #1-4", what can cause this? One more thing: with these codes on my PEAKE reader I have no SES light. It really looks that E8 code triggers the light.

Redneck M5 · Aug 5, 2008

The problem with the Evaporative Emission purge valve would turn on you malfunction indicator light.

That's probably a Type A fault and will set off the light on the first time the prerequsites are met and system monitor runs a check.

s328 · Aug 5, 2008

Thank you, guys. I have already ordered CPS and will do it tomorrow.

HFactor · Aug 6, 2008

See my experience with VANOS position control error:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/121760-vanos-4.html#post1384911

wilsodh · Aug 6, 2008

Great write up J Irwin! Thanks for putting this together! :thumbsup:

Dave

sbacchus · Mar 11, 2009

question, is the CPS supposed to have oil on it? your old CPS looks bone dry, mine is oily.

J Irwan Discussion starter · Mar 12, 2009

sbacchus said:
question, is the CPS supposed to have oil on it? your old CPS looks bone dry, mine is oily.

They should be covered in oil (hence use new O-rings)
On mine I wipe it try before taking some pictures for comparison purpose

Regardz,

J Irwan

gherardini · Mar 12, 2009

What a great post!! Thanks for all the effort. Subbed for forever...

sbacchus · Mar 12, 2009

thanks, makes sense that it should have oil given where it's coming from, but then i saw your looking dry and started to wonder...

Mycivicisfasterthanmym5 · Apr 26, 2009

just replace both my exhaust cam sensors with this helpful tutorial:cheers:

Gamite · Apr 26, 2009

I used this as well. Big up to OP

BGKBCK · May 12, 2009

Extremely reputable independent service shop in North County San Diego quoted me $910 parts and labor to replace all 4 sensors (exhaust and intake CPS's) Is that crazy or what???<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

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Saw a few posters mention around $250 parts and labor from their indie's. I thought I'd save myself the time of getting under the car, busting up my knuckles and dropping bolts, but for $910 looks like I'll be this job myself!<o

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Wish me luck and thanks for the great writeup's...<o

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Gamite · May 13, 2009

If you don't need to change all 4, I wouldn't bother doing them all at the same time. They don't share any common cover aside from the cabin filters. It won't really save you any time doing them all at the same time.

BGKBCK · May 13, 2009

Getting the following codes for those who have recently replaced their sensors. P0390, P0019 and P0025 -- All relating to Bank 2 exhaust cam position sensors. So your saying it's wiser to just replace the exhaust cps sensors as opposed to doing them all??? Thanks everyone!

ccebrun · May 14, 2009

camshaft position sensors

I recieved peak codes for:

camshaft position actuator control open circuit bank 1.

camshaft position actuator bank A 1 timming over retarded actuator.

Also there were several misfire codes all on the same bank of the engine bank 1.

My questions.
Is it the intake CPS sensor or the exhaust CPS?

What are the locations of each one?

I have pulled one that was near the fire wall near the air intake on the left side if you are facing the car from the front. Is the intake or exhaust CPS?

KBK · May 20, 2009

Usually...the MAF sensors start to have direct and oil issues,and begin to mis-read, thus improperly mixing the air/fuel. This causes the engine to generally..lean out.

Then the sparkplugs misfire and burn. This excess heat issue causes the cam sensors which are MAGNETIC to over heat and fail. The magnets de-magnetize, from the heat.

Overall..the whole thing slowly turns around so that the o2 pre-cat sensors are also burned and off in their measurements..and then..we are sending unburnt fuel down the line and really overheating things and slowly trashing the cat converters themselves...while the car is slowly starting to throw every engine code in the book at you that is centered around air flow, cats, o2 sensors, emissions controls, mafs, fuel (control and flow) levels, etc, etc.

The trick is to change out MAF's before they are a problem. Then the other parts of the engine, sensors and all, tend to last twice as long before they become problems.

The S62 motor runs hot in the first place as it is in confined space for such a motor design and size. The thing is quite delicately balanced. Paying attention to the potential issues with cam sensors, o2 sensors and specifically--the MAFs!!!! will pay big dividends in lowered maintenance outside of this basic regimen.

Many to most M5 engine 'daily running issues' (that accumulate and worsen over time) can be traced back to aging MAF sensors.

koolmofo · May 20, 2009

I know there are several of these CPS posts around here, and this one is geared to the Exhaust CPS, but I wanted to share a dilemna that I have, and I wanted to get some input;
It turns out the vendor I got my sensors from sold me the Febi brand (one brand that according to Beisan Systems have caused problems). The other thing is, according to Realoem.com and Bmwfans.info the latest part number for a 2000 M5 Intake CPS is 12147539173 (It seems there were earlier versions under a different #). The old sensors that I took out of my car had the # 12141438082 (with a date of 3/4/2000 stamped on it, assume it is the original that came with the car) on one bank, and #12147833134 (with a date of 10/29/04 stamped on it) on the other bank. But, according to the Febi box that my replacements came in, it has Part # 12141438082 which according to the box replaces part # 12147518628 (what the heck is that?) In searching the 12147518628 number, it doesn't even come up for the M5, instead it seems to be for many of the regular 5 & 3 series E39, and E46 and they are used as exhaust CPS. Do I have the completely wrong part in my car? From a design perspective, they look the same.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

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But as I have posted in other threads, the car is very sluggish in the lower RPM range. <o

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M5 London · Sep 27, 2009

koolmofo said:
I know there are several of these CPS posts around here, and this one is geared to the Exhaust CPS, but I wanted to share a dilemna that I have, and I wanted to get some input;

<FONT color=#1f497d><FONT face=Calibri><FONT size=3>It turns out the vendor I got my sensors from sold me the Febi brand (one brand that according to Beisan Systems have caused problems). The other thing is, according to Realoem.com and Bmwfans.info the latest part number for a 2000 M5 Intake CPS is 12147539173 (It seems there were earlier versions under a different #). The old sensors that I took out of my car had the # 12141438082 (with a date of 3/4/2000 stamped on it, assume it is the original that came with the car) on one bank, and #12147833134 (with a date of 10/29/04 stamped on it) on the other bank. But, according to the Febi box that my replacements came in, it has Part # 12141438082 which according to the box replaces part # 12147518628 (what the heck is that?) In searching the 12147518628 number, it doesn't even come up for the M5, instead it seems to be for many of the regular 5 & 3 series E39, and E46 and they are used as exhaust CPS.Do I have the completely wrong part in my car<FONT color=#1f497d>? From a design perspective, they look the same.fficeffice" /><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

The old one was shared by several non M models, not sure about hte new one.

If you can, just go and buy new genuine ones and all is good right ?

For me, low rev performance is greatly affected by CPS, but also a few other things...but CPS are very critical.

Cheers

grime015 · Sep 26, 2009

Great thread. Changed my CPS and killed an SES light in 20 minutes, thanks to those pictures. I wish I had one of those ratchet allen wrenches, doing it with an old fashioned allen wrenches was a real test of patience, but still easy enough.

M5 London · Sep 27, 2009

Oops Sorry !

What I wrote was, the newer CPS definitely look bigger more substantial than your factory fit ones, in comparison.

The old ones were also shared across several non M models, but not too sure about hte new one.

For me Low RPM issues and CPS are strongly linked, but so are a few other usual suspects....I was well chuffed after putting new CPS in my car, even when I had no codes !

If you can, then just go buy new original ones and then the problem is sorted right ?

blackandgold · Oct 5, 2009

This is a great write-up. I'm in the process of replacing my sensor today and it seems to be a difficult chore. I disconnected the plug from below without a problem and I have been trying to loosen the screw from above (after removing the cabin filter). I have been using a flex-head stubby ratchet, but it is still only possible to loosen the screw a very tiny bit each rotation. It's a test of patience as there doesn't seem to be a good angle to do this with the hoses in the way.

I'm going to switch tools tomorrow and try a ratchet wrench with an adapter to create a low-profile ratchet.

grime015 · Oct 5, 2009

blackandgold said:
This is a great write-up. I'm in the process of replacing my sensor today and it seems to be a difficult chore. I disconnected the plug from below without a problem and I have been trying to loosen the screw from above (after removing the cabin filter). I have been using a flex-head stubby ratchet, but it is still only possible to loosen the screw a very tiny bit each rotation. It's a test of patience as there doesn't seem to be a good angle to do this with the hoses in the way.

I'm going to switch tools tomorrow and try a ratchet wrench with an adapter to create a low-profile ratchet.

As long as your don't have HUGE forarms, I personally recomend switching to an allen wrench and just sucking it up. While it will take some patience, its a lot more effective than trying to fit a wrench in that area. Also, no need to go under the car, because once you unscrew it, you can just pull it out and disconnect and change the sensor with two hands. There is quite a bit of extra cord on the sensor plug.

blackandgold · Oct 5, 2009

Using the allen wrench from below was the best solution for me. Once I took this approach it took me about 45 minutes to get the old one off and the new one back on. Thanks for the advice.

Whews...Finally replace CPS exhaust - Bank 2 (Cyl 5-8)

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