BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner
161 - 180 of 397 Posts
Thank you for the info about the consumer shutdown i am confidant that i know where to take the power from at the HVAC but does anyone have a picture of the red wire in the HU loom that i have to connect to? as i am finding it hard understanding verbal directions and i don't want to get it wrong.

many thanks
All they are saying is to make sure that the CAN box stays on the ACC/Switched red wire like normal and then the consumer shutdown wire goes to the head unit side. This is a picture of my other harness used for tinkering with the unit on the bench so it hasn't been modified yet.
Just start taking the tape off the harness from the head unit connector side until you get to where all the red wires meet in a junction. Cut the wire as indicated in the picture, and be sure to cut it more on the head unit side so that the other bulk of the wires stay connected and soldered still, then cover that junction side in heat shrink so it can't short out on anything. Then simply connect the Consumer shutdown wire to head unit side as indicated in the picture. Be sure to test it all to make sure it's all working first then tape it all back up and enjoy!
Image




Just to note, I have had a few bugs while using the Consumer shutdown. Some of them are a little annoying but the benefits of what the Consumer shutdown can do, just barely out weigh not using it. Here is the email I sent to IBus support with the list of problems. Their replies are in bold under my questions and my reply to their replies are in italic:

Hello, I bought your full IBUS app and a Resler interface for my 01 540i (e39) on an Xtrons pb7839bp head unit running Oreo 8, and while most things work well (This is such an AMAZING app!! You all have something really special here. Thank you so much for all your efforts and hard work in making this!!!), I've been having a problem with a few things...

- I have it wired up through the consumer shutdown and sometimes, probably 10% of the time, it will not shut down even though I've armed the alarm. I have "locking" & "remote locking" selected in "Start signal coming home" and the "Shutdown telegram" that I use is "E39 1" as it's the only one that seems to work at all.
Sometimes the shutdown message isn't acknowledged from the ecu because it's rejected. I don't know why this is happening. The coming lights starts with every locking?
Yes, the coming home lights seem to kick on every time if I'm unlocking the car. Although I do have it set for only coming on in the evening/night time.


- Sometimes, about 50% of the time, I have to go into the DSP settings and resend the DSP start command to get sound. I have the "DSP second start" is selected and I've played with the "DSP second start delay"
Is this only at the start after turn the engine on or before? The second start is only send after the engine was started.
This happens even after the engine start. It's very random. I have not maxed out the delay to 10 seconds yet so perhaps I should try that but I do have it set to 8 now and have tried everything below with the same results.


-Most of the time, about 95% of the time, my steering wheel position memory will not go back to the lowered position I had previously set. It works as it should if the head unit is not connected. I see no settings anywhere in the app for this.
The steering column position error is caused by the early shutdown process. The ecu overwrites the position of the steering column in every memory with the current position. I have tried to investigate why but found nothing to avoid this.
Please let me know if I can help in diagnosing this in anyway. This problem is quite annoying to have to reset the steering wheel every time I get in. Perhaps some kind of timer somewhere or something? Or send the command for steering wheel position at some certain time after it tries to overwrite the settings?


-Then lastly, maybe less than 15% of the time, I get in the car, turn on some music, but it's rather quiet, so I go turn up the volume to where I can hear it (DSP set & start level is 39), volume knob set rather high like low 20's, then I go inside the store or something (car off, and locked (shutdown)), and start the car but this time it's REALLY loud (like it should have been to begin with the volume up as high as I had to set it just to hear it before), DSP values stay the same as far as I can see.
Maybe you have changed the volume also with the steering wheel buttons? Unfortunately this is changing DSP and head unit volume at the same time.
It's actually pretty rare I use the steering wheel controls as I don't want to wear the paint off the buttons like a lot of them are. But when I do use them, they seem to function perfectly. It's just some random times when I get in the car, it's really quiet, so I turn it up with the head unit volume knob to where it's loud enough... Even one time during a little road trip, it was kind of randomly doing this while driving even... Got really quiet so I turned it up, then some time later, it would kick out of whatever weirdness it was in and go back to normal volume and be really loud. Very weird and VERY random.
 
Thanks for that info whitewolf that makes it so much clearer to understand.

I also like what you did with the loom, where you eliminated the big plug from it, i don't have DSP in my car i don't know if that will make any difference.
 
Thanks for that info whitewolf that makes it so much clearer to understand.

I also like what you did with the loom, where you eliminated the big plug from it, i don't have DSP in my car i don't know if that will make any difference.
Glad I can help! If you want to tidy up your harness and don't have DSP, then you can make it even prettier and just cut that connector off, heat shrink or tape off each end of the wire separately so they cant touch anything, and then tape them in with all the other wires.
 
I have installed my xtrons PB7839BP but it doesn't start up with the key it will just switch on and off without key inserted, should i connect the key 1 and 2 wires and if so where should the connections be made ?

Many thanks
If you're running the consumer shutdown wire, this is normal. You need to go setup the consumer shutdown- Coming / Leaving Home settings in the IBUS App. If you read to the bottom of the "Consumer Shutdown Instructions", you will see a link that says "After successful Umklemmung follows of course the right setting and testing" and go down about halfway until you get to the "Coming / Leaving Home" instructions and read and follow them carefully and set the startup and shutdown telegrams etc..
Once setup properly, the head unit should start up as soon as you unlock the car, like the stock stereo did. And it should also stay on for a few after you take the key out and if you have the "coming/leaving home" setup, the lights will kick on when you lock your car and should shut off after your coming home light timers (set mine to 30 seconds) run, then the head unit "should" (I've had mine not shut down before! So keep an eye on it) power down after that.
 
Discussion starter · #167 ·
So, I’ve seen a lot of discussion about the consumer shutdown power connection on the German FB group. What exactly is the advantage to having that?
 
So, I’ve seen a lot of discussion about the consumer shutdown power connection on the German FB group. What exactly is the advantage to having that?
Mainly it just allows the head unit to be powered on like the factory stereo in that it will turn on right when you unlock your car. So you could have all your Tasker commands or apps or whatever, already loaded and all ready to go when you get in the car.

It also allows the IBUS app to have control of the coming and leaving home lights and you can choose each set of lights you want to come on and for how long. You can even program a time span of what time of night you want the lights to come on so that they are not waisting power during the mid day. Really neat stuff!

But, if none of that is needed, I would suggest to leave it wired like normal as there are a bit of bugs that need to be worked out. See my post on the last page, #160, for a list of the bugs I've experienced. I'm thinking about wiring up a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch so I can choose to have it powered up with either the consumer shutdown or just the regular ignition switched.
 
Discussion starter · #169 ·
Mine is powered off the standard power from the trunk radio connections and with it set to sleep (rather than totally shut down), it doesn't even really boot. I unlock the car, get in, turn the key and within a couple seconds it's ready to go

Thanks!
 
Mine is powered off the standard power from the trunk radio connections and with it set to sleep (rather than totally shut down), it doesn't even really boot. I unlock the car, get in, turn the key and within a couple seconds it's ready to go

Thanks!
It's not really about the startup of the unit as you still use the same sleep function as normal and it's up and running in a couple of seconds too... It's more that the unit can go in and out of sleep mode, by itself without the key in the ignition, in order to utilize the coming/leaving home. But it's also useful to have your apps and/or tasker commands or whatever can be done and all ready to go for you by the time you get in the car. Like automatically have your music continue playing when you get back in the car. Like for me, my automatic screen dimmer app needs to be restarted every time it comes out of sleep and all that can be out of the way and done for me by the time I get in the car.
 
If you're running the consumer shutdown wire, this is normal. You need to go setup the consumer shutdown- Coming / Leaving Home settings in the IBUS App. If you read to the bottom of the "Consumer Shutdown Instructions", you will see a link that says "After successful Umklemmung follows of course the right setting and testing" and go down about halfway until you get to the "Coming / Leaving Home" instructions and read and follow them carefully and set the startup and shutdown telegrams etc..
Once setup properly, the head unit should start up as soon as you unlock the car, like the stock stereo did. And it should also stay on for a few after you take the key out and if you have the "coming/leaving home" setup, the lights will kick on when you lock your car and should shut off after your coming home light timers (set mine to 30 seconds) run, then the head unit "should" (I've had mine not shut down before! So keep an eye on it) power down after that.

I'm a bit confused about these coming home/leaving home light timers and what values i should input, i,m a 60 yr old bloke who is not very tech savvy and i don't want to cock things up.
 
I'm a bit confused about these coming home/leaving home light timers and what values i should input, i,m a 60 yr old bloke who is not very tech savvy and i don't want to cock things up.
The timer is just simply to select how long you want the lights to come on for (I did 30 seconds which in the app would be 300x100ms) and then select what lights you want to come on for that amount of time. Then save it to either memo 2 or 3 and it will even automatically ask if you want to use it for coming/leaving home. You need to set up both memo 2 and 3.
 
The timer is just simply to select how long you want the lights to come on for (I did 30 seconds which in the app would be 300x100ms) and then select what lights you want to come on for that amount of time. Then save it to either memo 2 or 3 and it will even automatically ask if you want to use it for coming/leaving home. You need to set up both memo 2 and 3.
Is it the translation that is causing my confusion ?

Starts to set the "Radio Consumer Shutdown" to active .
( I understand this to mean "to start set the radio shutdown to active" )

It continues with the "VA telegram" : The telegram must fit the series, if necessary, there are also several telegrams for the model. (3 options in this field E39 1 E39 2 E39 3)

Then you set the right start signal , please make sure that the desired signal is also available.

Immobilizer (EWS)
Locking (central locking)
FFB locking (remote control)
Ignition off
DWA (arming the anti-theft alarm system)
Multiple selection is possible. The combi "Locking" and "FFB Locking" often already work.

This i understand as choose a tick box

Finally, set the start times for morning and evening, say until when should the lights go on tomorrow and from when in the evening. If you want it to always work in the morning and in the evening, for example, at 12:00.

If the settings are correct, the radio should shut down a few (!) Seconds after the start signal, the LED on the automatic gear lever (if present) and the glove box light (if open!) Go out.
When the vehicle is unlocked, the radio should start up again and the lights should go on.
If lighting controls are deposited, the function is active (tick setting) and the functions Coming- / Leaving Home are assigned, these should be started accordingly. See chapter Lighting control

I'm sorry that i find it hard to grasp the info.
 
If the settings are correct, the radio should shut down a few (!) Seconds after the start signal, the LED on the automatic gear lever (if present) and the glove box light (if open!) Go out.
When the vehicle is unlocked, the radio should start up again and the lights should go on.
If lighting controls are deposited, the function is active (tick setting) and the functions Coming- / Leaving Home are assigned, these should be started accordingly. See chapter Lighting control

I'm sorry that i find it hard to grasp the info.
Is this the section you don't understand? All they are saying here is, this is how to test to make sure the proper signals are being sent to the car. So if you have the key on anything higher than "0" ("0" being ignition off) and if you select the "try shutdown telegram", it will send the shutdown signal to the car so you can test each of the shutdown telegrams until one of them makes the light in glove box go out (obviously glove box needs to be open to see if the light goes out) and the light on the shifter will go out too. If nothing happened, then you need to try another telegram until those lights go out. For my 01 540i it was "E39 1" telegram that worked for me.
 
Finally, set the start times for morning and evening, say until when should the lights go on tomorrow and from when in the evening. If you want it to always work in the morning and in the evening, for example, at 12:00.
It was this paragraph that was confusing me the most, i was too busy yesterday to play with it but i will try again later today when family have gone home.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Hi Kenny,

1. You don't look a day over 25!
2. I'm surprised you went for this unit!

Hopefully catch you up at some events and shows again and hope life's been treating you good last couple years ! I'm not around your way so often anymore either else I'd have popped in for a brew!

Cheers, Dennis!
 
Not directly related, as Avin in an e46, but I'm so pleased with CarPlay on the Avin now that they've added 3rd party nav support (ios12). Waze on the nav screen using the phones data plan is what I've always wanted, and can't imagine wanting much more. Well, no, I lied-- can't wait till someone releases a wireless CarPlay dongle for this thing!

Since all the processing is done on the phone, everything is smooth/reliable/fast.

Waze running:

Image


If you open your phone while it's running to waze, it provides the turn by turn list so that both screens are useful:

Image


And other features, podcasts:

Image


Visual voicemail functions as you'd expect:

Image


And you can browse all your music with a nice interface (album art subtly in the background):

Image


Hopefully Harry's GPS lap timer adds support, soon!

Can't imagine wanting any factory nav/infotainment over this, from any company in any time period. Cop locations on OE looking nav!

As soon as wireless carplay becomes available in these things, every car I own will be getting an OE looking android head unit (leaning towards the Xtrons in my e39s).
 
Discussion starter · #178 ·
Agreed completely. Initially, I didn’t even order the CarPlay interface as my previous experience in rental cars was meh. Now, it’s the only way I use the head unit. Android simply serves as a conduit to allow my phone to be displayed on the screen.

My only complaint with the CarPlay interface is that I seem to lack the bandwidth to run Waze as the displayed app and simultaneously stream music from Spotify. The music will frequently stutter and skip as the map tries to update. The situation gets worse at speed, as the map tries to keep up. I’ve found that dropping Waze to the background seems to resolve this, and I do still get the audible warnings. Not sure as I haven’t looked into it much, but is suspect this is just a LTE bandwidth limitation and probably has nothing to do with the hardware in the car.

Overall, if the DSP integration would ever get *really* worked out, I’d be 100% happy. As it stands now, the DSP is really an annoyance and I’ve given serious thought to ripping it all out and going aftermarket amps & speakers.
 
It was this paragraph that was confusing me the most, i was too busy yesterday to play with it but i will try again later today when family have gone home.

Thanks again for your help.
Sorry man, I replied to this right away and thought it posted but now it's gone...
Anyway, this part is for what time of day/night you want your coming/leaving home lights to be active.
So for example; if you want the coming/leaving home lights to work only at night, say from 8 PM through to 7 AM, then you would set the "Coming home evening time" to 8 PM and the "Coming home morning time" to 7 AM.
And then I think they mean if you want them to work all the time, you would set them both to 12 PM or both to the same time. I'm not 100% on that one as I don't want them to be active during the day.
 
161 - 180 of 397 Posts