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Trizzuth's 2003 E39 M5 Maintenance Thread

183K views 1K replies 65 participants last post by  Trizzuth  
#1 ·
Hello gents,

I came from the E46Fanatics world as I had been on that site since 2005, and just lost my 2001 330i to a total loss accident. An 85 year old woman claimed her foot slipped off the brake and onto the gas as she shot out of a parking lot unbeknownst to me and crushed the right rear quarter of my car. Being an 01 with 236K miles (all maintained by me) insurance felt the car was pretty worthless. Took a few weeks and proof via many many receipts of parts (all my labor unfortunately) to raise the value to an acceptable figure. I was also able to rape the car for any other aftermarket parts I could unload so I did ok in the end.

Picked up my new (used) 2003 TiAg M5 with 79K miles about 2 hours away from home, but still in Mass. Wiggled on the price a little bit and in the end considering what I was able to get for my E46, I picked this up for just under 20K.

Small things I have done thus far to bring my thread up to speed:
1) Had to get new front tires (Michelin Pilot Sport A/S to match the backs that were new). The Fronts were older Michelin Pilot Sport A/S from back in 2010 and had chunks of rubber missing from the tread area, even though the tread was still deep, tons of dry rot and it made me nervous on a car of this caliber so I had new ones put on.

2) Installed the short clutch stop from the ebay user recommended on here, made that lower clutch pedal dead spot so much better and car still starts no problem!

3) Hardwired my V1 so I am protected or at least on the defensive end all the time.

4) Inspected all 4 brakes, everything looks good, washed and waxed with Klasse All in One before the winter comes.

5) Figured out a decent solution to the water pooling in the gas cap area, for which I will post up some pics soon so you all can see. Granted it's not an optimal solution, but with the door closed you can't see anything and that was the only area on the entire car where there were some small rust bubbles.

6) Got under the car to check everything out, repaired the lower right fender belly panel the best I could until I get a new one, and found some exhaust brackets totally rusted through. I have the replacements from FCP in my garage right now waiting to go in.

7) Found out there is green coolant in this car (YIKES!!!) and not OE BMW Blue. Have records from PO of thermostat being replaced around 2013, so that is new-ish, as well as the clutch.

8) Issues I am currently perplexed with: Strange hesitation sometimes in 1st and 2nd gear, I've read on here about this, seems better with Sport mode engaged, but does not feel like it drives perfectly in 1 and 2. The rest of the gears are good. I am exaggerating this issue, but there is definitely something up. Also the clutch makes a spring-like sound when depressed and released which I also read can be normal, but my bigger concern (hoping it's the loose exhaust bracket rattling) is that once 1st gear is engaged, during the process of engagement, there is a strange creak.

I need to get my airbag recall done soon, so I am hoping to have the dealer at least assess the car overall and take a peek at the 1 and 2 gear issue along with the clutch noise. We'll see what they say.

Otherwise this thing is amazing, it's literally my favorite car of all time, so much so that when my girlfriend and I were dating, she rented me one from a high horsepower rental place for like $600 for one day! It stuck in my mind ever since. That was back in about 2001.

Just rolled the ODO over 80K the other day. Oil looks perfect, no leaks anywhere from what I can see. Will try to post up some pics that are on my phone soon.
 
#2 ·
Here are a few pics I had stored on my pc..

One is of my buddy's 2000 528i (with swapped 540i trunk) that has just about 400K miles!

Another is of the 18" style 5 reps I had for my E46 that had an E39 center bore and came with hub-centric rings to fit the E46. Just confirming if they fit so I could use them as a spare if necessary, and they did, although offset pushed in a bit.
 

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#3 ·
Few more pics here...

put my old 5 speed ZHP shift knob in there right away, is so much better now that it's a bit lower, and my 6th gear is incognito! Ha, I may get a 6 speed one eventually but right now it works great.

Also found the OE M Mobility kit with godknowshowold tire sealant!
 

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#4 ·
^^ also can see chunks of rubber missing from front tires. This was not the worst part either. With no spare at the time, I didn't want to take the chance getting stranded somewhere and have to get this car towed within weeks of getting it due to a flat!

Pic there also of the KTEMP value as I was checking proper operation of my thermostat. This was after a bit of around town driving, it stays steady at 78-79 most of the time otherwise and seems to be perfectly operational.
 
#5 ·
Lastly, I bought a stainless steel tow hook plate bracket since they are insane here in Mass with front plates. I drove my E46 for a few years with no front plate but eventually got tagged and warned, so I just don't want to be at risk giving them any reason to pull me over, and this was my best (unfortunately hideous) option so the plate would be secure and wouldn't flop like crazy. I have checked out all other options on here and may eventually go to the center mounted one that has the quick release. It set off my front PDC sensors like crazy, so I have disconnected the 2 on that side and now it's quiet inside.
 
#8 ·
This was my immediate thought, however I get zero rattles on a cold start, so wasn't that the basic sign that your vanos was going out? I did multiple vanos seals repairs on E46s, but the E62 vanos repair is far more complicated. Nothing I am afraid of, just car needs to be down for awhile.

If there is hesitation when the car is cold and it gets better once warm, is that also a sign of bad vanos seals? And how come it's really only an issue in gears 1 and 2?
 
#9 ·
Here are more pics as promised.. gas gap area fix with Flex seal from a can carefully poured in to create a slight incline so water can just roll out of there..

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Rusted exhaust bracket that is loose, have replacements ready to go in..
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#10 ·
First off, try to find out what the PO has done regarding the VANOS. Then read the vanos diy threads in the diy sticky. The main issue is not startup rattle but crud plugging the solenoids causing them to not advance/retard the cams properly. Many people experience a jerky throttle in lower gears.
If it hasn't been done, you need to pull the solenoid boards, remove the gauze filters, blast the noids with brake cleaner/compressed air, and replace the solenoid O rings. Inspect/test the solder points.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the detail, I will need to inspect this and see if this may be what is causing the hesitation, as I want this car to drive normally and it's frustrating the way it drives around town right now!

That Flex Seal seems like it would trap water underneath, making the problem worse?
No way, it was completely bone dry before I put the flex seal on there, and now that it's dried out, it's totally glued tight to the paint work and there is no way any water can ever get underneath now.
 
#14 ·
I agree that what i did has certainly not stopped the rust creep, but seeing that water pool in there, any time it rains or there is enough dew to run down the car is 10000 x worse in my opinion. My E46 turned into a rust bucket up here in the northeast and I will do everything I can to prevent this car from becoming that, although I know it is ultimately inevitable!

New exhaust brackets installed and new O2 sensor wire hangers also installed. Man the old ones were rough. Pics coming in a bit.
 
#15 ·
Here’s the exhaust bracket carnage and new installed..
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New o2 wire hangers
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Does this rear metal brace bar look bent to you? Or should it be like that?No idea wtf the PO was driving over to get this kinda scratches in the bottom of the gas tank! Speed bumps maybe??
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#18 ·
Does this rear metal brace bar look bent to you? Or should it be like that?No idea wtf the PO was driving over to get this kinda scratches in the bottom of the gas tank! Speed bumps maybe??



Or a curb. Yeah that's bent well. Check out this pic from Redshift. Should lay nice and flat.



Looks like your right side, which would be PN 51717892186. Probabably just want to contact Clemster over in the Parts for Sale section. I'm sure he can fix you up with a decent one for much less money.
 
#22 ·
I was just going by your avatar image of that E60, so pardon me.

Hmmm interesting. I'm sure it would also stress the fuel pump if it was clogged as well. Strange that I don't seem to have much hesitation in sport mode though. I will continue testing driving it in sport mode every time I am in the car and see if that really makes a difference. 14 years is also a long time for a fuel pump.
 
#23 ·
My new (used) rear subframe braces came in from Clemster! Gave them some Eastwood rust encapsulation treatment on whatever light surface rust there was, and put them in. Also seems like the Entire rear subframe was replaced when this car took a hit to the left rear quarter back in 2006 the only other damage I could see other than the subframe bars being bent was a small dent in the underside of the frame rail on the drivers side.

Old left New right...

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Subframe sticker..
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Also looks like my diff is a little leaky..
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#25 ·
I know! the first thing I did was look it up... at least I know the bushings in there have around 50K miles, and are not what the factory put in originally. Might buy me some time when all is said and done, but really what it makes me do is cringe at what kind of accident this car was really in back in 2006.:eek7:
 
#26 ·
Lucky me! Bout a month in of ownership and I am pretty sure I have this issue. Backed the car up on ramps last night in the cold wet rainy ground, got on my back to take a look and everything was solid underneath, but I did notice my diff was leaking a lot of fluid, and guibo while ok has some visible cracks. Car going to the dealer on Thursday for the airbag recall may have them just confirm this is what the problem is (rule out any issues with the diff other than leaking fluid and it needing new seals and a front bushing), but I am 99% sure right now. Only happens when car is cold started and I drive down the road on my way to work, once car gets up to speed, the rotational mass of the driveshaft seems to center itself out good. Also, once the car is warm and I assume this rubber warms up, the knocking does not occur. I can instantly feel it in the morning when I place my hand on the carpet between the rear seats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9QRsvkLGnM

If that is indeed my issue, I think I am going to get a rebuilt driveshaft with CSB installed and new guibo and do the entire thing.
 
#27 ·
Fellow Masshole here,
Just recently picked up a 140k mile 02 M5, jet black on caramel, and have done a few things to it maintenance wise so far; guibo, diff seals, mounts, and fluid, and minor things like air and cabin filters. Last weekend I swapped out the shifter and boot for the F10 M5 shifter and boot. Just today I resealed the rear door vapor barriers and replaced the door lock actuators while in there. I am planning to do the transmission fluid tomorrow. But I am also having that hesitation issue in 1st and 2nd gear, so trying to figure out what it is. Didn't think of the fuel filter. Maybe I will order one of those and try that. Just a pain to get this car in the air to do all this maintenance. Anyway, if you figure out the hesitation (my vanos is also quiet), let me know, I appreciate it. Thanks!
 
#29 · (Edited)
Nice to see a fellow masshole with an M5 close to me! I am in Fairhaven.

Those are the exact exhaust brackets I bought, make sure you get new bolts too, you will need them. You may also want to inspect the small metal clips that hold the O2 sensor wires to the heat shield, several of mine were rusted out and weren't even holding the wires anymore, it's a cheap addition to your order and LIFETIME from FCP!

The more and more I read, the more and more I think that the hesitation may be a "thing" with this car, as many many people have replaced tons of parts only to have it still be there. Others say the only way to somewhat make it better is the Evolve Alpha N tune, or another tune. I had some vanos hesitation in my E46, but it wasn't nearly as bad as what I am experiencing in this car, and you'd think that would manifest itself in all gears.

I'm wondering if mine feels worse because my CSB is so so so bad right now. I also think that the rear end suspension rub I felt over deep compression hits, was actually my driveshaft rubbing against the transmission tunnel! It goes away once the car is warm, but there is a deep bump I hit a few times coming into my work parking lot slowly that has caused what sounds like a tire rubbing on a plastic shield, or shock, it was a definite something's moving and then rubbing noise. Now I think what was happening is that the sudden bounce pushed the driveshaft into the transmission tunnel for a quick rub because the CSB is so bad. This is the same type of knocking I get when starting the car and driving it cold in 1 and 2 first thing in the morning, although a slightly higher pitch and louder because of the larger bump.

Car going in on Thursday, I will have them check everything out, and quote me prices. If it's astronomical, I will do what I can myself.

Did you do the diff seals yourself? How bad was that job? Did you need to remove the entire diff from the car? I assume that's the only way to get this done.

And hey, I just bought one of these (wanted 2 but only 1 in stock) to get the car higher and safer. Seems legit, but have not used yet.

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$40 at Tractor Supply, so don't pay $64 on Amazon, or elsewhere. The home depot website also had them for like $36, but they say out of stock online and in the stores.
 
#43 ·
Nice to see a fellow masshole with an M5 close to me! I am in Fairhaven.

Those are the exact exhaust brackets I bought, make sure you get new bolts too, you will need them. You may also want to inspect the small metal clips that hold the O2 sensor wires to the heat shield, several of mine were rusted out and weren't even holding the wires anymore, it's a cheap addition to your order and LIFETIME from FCP!
Sorry for the late response. I know Fairhaven pretty well. I went to school at UMD and spent more time than I care to admit at the Bridge Street Station in my younger years. Also at that other bar that's up the street just over the bridge into NB. Anyway, thanks for the info, I will order some of those. When changing the transmission fluid last weekend, I looked at them again, and one of them is completely rusted out, not supporting the exhaust at all. Weird because everything else I can see is clean. The O2 sensor clips are fine. It actually all looks really good for the mileage, except those brackets.

Did you do the diff seals yourself? How bad was that job? Did you need to remove the entire diff from the car? I assume that's the only way to get this done.
I did not. There are certain jobs that I will not perform knowing my level of skill and patience. If I had a lift, I may attempt more, but it was worth it to me to pay for that job. I take my cars to a shop in southern NH for items like those. They did remove the entire diff to perform it, as there is no easy way to do the seals without doing so.

And hey, I just bought one of these (wanted 2 but only 1 in stock) to get the car higher and safer. Seems legit, but have not used yet. $40 at Tractor Supply, so don't pay $64 on Amazon, or elsewhere. The home depot website also had them for like $36, but they say out of stock online and in the stores.
Product looks decent. Didn't know they had an all in one unit like that. Very nice. Seems too cheap?!? Let me know your impressions when you use it. Thanks.
 
#31 ·
AHh, and just as I research parts needed to do the driveshaft replacement myself, I felt like reviewing the pic I took of my guibo when under the car the other day to see how my bolts were. All looked fine, but to my surprise, all were going in the same direction! White mark on Guibo too, so I'm thinking that when this car was being repaired from it's accident, they removed the driveshaft and then the morons who reinstalled it did not do it properly and inserted all bolts in the same direction, potentially causing the cracks that are now on the guibo! Now it makes me want to do this job myself even more as I don't want anyone touching this car with their incapable hands! Pics coming in a few...
 
#33 ·
This find also makes me think that maybe, just maybe my center support bearing is just loose? I am borrowing a friend's inspection camera tomorrow and will take a look to hopefully see it and determine if it's just bad or loose. Imagine it's just loose and I just need to drop the exhaust a little and lower the heat shield and tighten it? Can't possibly be that easy, but at least I will know by looking at it rather than having to drop the exhaust and shield just to take a peek.