A month ago, I purchased a 2006 M5. I will get around to posting pictures but I've been rather busy. I'm going to jump ahead to an oil change yesterday. There are enough DIYs around - including that recent video by Baneof Thoth - or whomever, so this is just a basic description of some differences.
1. I followed the BMW bulletin that suggests taking overfill oil out of the old filter; then getting a new reading (at operating temperature); and only when it is 'between min and max' to begin the oil change.
2. I used liqui-moly 10W60 - because.... Before the purists mount their Quixotic steeds, my oil changes are at max 3000km due to the fact that I like to put in lighter 'W' for winter, and that I have too many cars right now (i.e. low mileage).
3. I used a Mann filter because that is what i use on my other BMWs, and because it's not really going to make any difference over 3000km, which quality filter I use.
4. I ran the car back up to operating temperature after step 1, at idle, in order for the dry sump operation to get all the oil where it can drain.
5. I removed the main oil drain plug, and later replaced it with the Fujimoto short stem valve. I kept the plug against future disaster.
6. I drained the oil filter again, and then removed the oil filter casing - there was still oil in there and I have a new stain on my driveway. This was after 2 drains. Lesson learned - expect oil in the filter casing in the future.
7. The BMW bulletin says that 9.3 liters overfills the car, so I added 8 liters - 200 - 300 ml in the oil filter cover and the rest in the engine including 450 ml of MOS2 (because I like it. If it's good enough for fighter planes..).
8. After adding the 8 liters, I started the car and let it idle up to operating temperature, where like magic, it told me that I was at the min range.
9. I then added 900 ml more (the bulletin say 800, but whoopsy on the measurement). I remeasured the oil level at 0.9 above min. mission accomplished.
I keep the oil filter in a plastic sealable bag and sawed it apart today. This is what I found (spoiler alert: Nothing really).
The first picture shows some back spots in one section. I'm assuming the they are carbon of some kind. The second picture shows two spots that shone in the light - I'm assuming metal.
That's one clean filter, but I don't know when the oil was last changed. I'm assuming last year and that the PO didn't change this year due to the intent to sell (expect the worst and you;re never disappointed).
This thread will be a running commentary on my adventure with the wonderful car, my triumphs, my despair, and my (likely) stupidity at times. Cheers.
p.s. Homework assignment: Does anyone know for sure if the majority of those rod bearing failures - especially the early ones, were mainly in tuned or modified vehicles - or if it's really just bearing roulette at this stage (i.e. no identifying factors to help reduce the probabilities for one's own vehicle)?
1. I followed the BMW bulletin that suggests taking overfill oil out of the old filter; then getting a new reading (at operating temperature); and only when it is 'between min and max' to begin the oil change.
2. I used liqui-moly 10W60 - because.... Before the purists mount their Quixotic steeds, my oil changes are at max 3000km due to the fact that I like to put in lighter 'W' for winter, and that I have too many cars right now (i.e. low mileage).
3. I used a Mann filter because that is what i use on my other BMWs, and because it's not really going to make any difference over 3000km, which quality filter I use.
4. I ran the car back up to operating temperature after step 1, at idle, in order for the dry sump operation to get all the oil where it can drain.
5. I removed the main oil drain plug, and later replaced it with the Fujimoto short stem valve. I kept the plug against future disaster.
6. I drained the oil filter again, and then removed the oil filter casing - there was still oil in there and I have a new stain on my driveway. This was after 2 drains. Lesson learned - expect oil in the filter casing in the future.
7. The BMW bulletin says that 9.3 liters overfills the car, so I added 8 liters - 200 - 300 ml in the oil filter cover and the rest in the engine including 450 ml of MOS2 (because I like it. If it's good enough for fighter planes..).
8. After adding the 8 liters, I started the car and let it idle up to operating temperature, where like magic, it told me that I was at the min range.
9. I then added 900 ml more (the bulletin say 800, but whoopsy on the measurement). I remeasured the oil level at 0.9 above min. mission accomplished.
I keep the oil filter in a plastic sealable bag and sawed it apart today. This is what I found (spoiler alert: Nothing really).
The first picture shows some back spots in one section. I'm assuming the they are carbon of some kind. The second picture shows two spots that shone in the light - I'm assuming metal.
That's one clean filter, but I don't know when the oil was last changed. I'm assuming last year and that the PO didn't change this year due to the intent to sell (expect the worst and you;re never disappointed).
This thread will be a running commentary on my adventure with the wonderful car, my triumphs, my despair, and my (likely) stupidity at times. Cheers.
p.s. Homework assignment: Does anyone know for sure if the majority of those rod bearing failures - especially the early ones, were mainly in tuned or modified vehicles - or if it's really just bearing roulette at this stage (i.e. no identifying factors to help reduce the probabilities for one's own vehicle)?
