New to board as I am considering buying an E60 M5 or E63 M6 if I move to Europe next month. Been doing as much research as possible and searched the M6 part of the forum as much as possible but found nothing. Wanted to see if the M6's have the same Rod Bearing issues as the M5's. I would assume so since they are the same engine, however, as mentioned could not find anything when searched. Thanks in advance for any feedback!:M5thumbs:
t0pgear
Hey Guys, So im bring back this thread...
I have a 08 m6 SMG that I am the 3rd owner of(i think) I bought the car at 56k and now have put on about 2k miles. I am thinking about getting the rod bearings done as a preventative maintenance and while I get my decat headers installed.
Questions, any recomendations for good /affordable mechanics for the jobs?(I'm in the NYC area) also, what kind of bearing and other parts would I need ideally to forget about them for a while? im confused as Im reading about different part names like BE bearings and WPE treated bearings and ARP rod bolts? Sorry, Im unfamiliar with the technical side of things.
I have a 08 m6 SMG that I am the 3rd owner of(i think) I bought the car at 56k and now have put on about 2k miles. I am thinking about getting the rod bearings done as a preventative maintenance and while I get my decat headers installed.
Questions, any recomendations for good /affordable mechanics for the jobs?(I'm in the NYC area) also, what kind of bearing and other parts would I need ideally to forget about them for a while? im confused as Im reading about different part names like BE bearings and WPE treated bearings and ARP rod bolts? Sorry, Im unfamiliar with the technical side of things.
I was led to believe the the newer bearing have a better clearance than the old 88/89s by a lot of googling this seems the case - also lots of changes I.e. Oil jet improvements should help shouldn't they?
2009 to 2010= version 3:
-All of the version 2 parts
-702/703 bearings (Troy has changed six 2009 motors, and all of them had the 702/703 bearings)
-Longer Set Bolts for Cylinder Head 2x (5/08)
-Intake and Exhaust valves different. p/n changes specific to Engine numbers starting with 2xxxxxxx (8/08)
-All Valve Collets and upper spring plates changed for above^ (8/08)
-Larger bolts for block to hold upper oil pan together to main block stronger (1/08)
-Piston cylinder oil jets are better design
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2009 to 2010= version 3:
-All of the version 2 parts
-702/703 bearings (Troy has changed six 2009 motors, and all of them had the 702/703 bearings)
-Longer Set Bolts for Cylinder Head 2x (5/08)
-Intake and Exhaust valves different. p/n changes specific to Engine numbers starting with 2xxxxxxx (8/08)
-All Valve Collets and upper spring plates changed for above^ (8/08)
-Larger bolts for block to hold upper oil pan together to main block stronger (1/08)
-Piston cylinder oil jets are better design
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Brilliant- only thing is I use my m6 as my dd and mainly for long highway runs so it really only gets thrashed every so often so I only do the oil every 10k (I have both sump bungs as well so it can drain properly!) will that oil work ok at those intervals?
On a side note I'm not trying to disprove they fail the evidence is there simple - and my first engine (gen1) failed at 45k due do bearings. My point I was trying to make is if the risk is significantly reduced with the newer engines
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On a side note I'm not trying to disprove they fail the evidence is there simple - and my first engine (gen1) failed at 45k due do bearings. My point I was trying to make is if the risk is significantly reduced with the newer engines
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I don't know why people keep thinking it's his oil filter design. It's not. Here is a link to buy it direct.
http://usaoilfilters.com/s39/
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http://usaoilfilters.com/s39/
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[QUOTE
As for KP yes, it was solely made for Troy Jeup. Only can buy through him. They made a smaller production just for Troy. I've been one of the few of performance ///M cars running it and it's phenomenal
QUOTE]
I called them directly and they said they did not make this filter for him. It's been available for sale directly. See the link above that I posted above
As for KP yes, it was solely made for Troy Jeup. Only can buy through him. They made a smaller production just for Troy. I've been one of the few of performance ///M cars running it and it's phenomenal
QUOTE]
I called them directly and they said they did not make this filter for him. It's been available for sale directly. See the link above that I posted above
Quote:
Originally Posted by M V10 Power View Post
You are
![Image]()
correct these engines def run a little hotter for sure. The issue is 10/60 is its soooooo thick that bulk of Rod bearings issues is not because you drive car hard BUT at cold start and start up. That 10/60 is like sludge at a cold start and takes almost two min to filter through OEM filter and rods that it has "starvation" then MOST want to go hammer on it immediately BOOM! Chips of metal over time chip away and away. I have a 08 M5 113k original miles and my car NEVER had metal shaving ever. I just did my Rod bearings 3 weeks ago and if you see my bearings compared to cars with half my miles it's night and day.
N I'm fully modded FBO Dave it hard AF. But I use Shaffer 5/50 with zinc which is perfect for Rod beearinfs. Yes it has more zinc for sure but that's the point.
It's an OLD myth that to much zinc kill cats. Please see video
https://youtu.be/PgXRNEukzn0
Also please see my bearings at 113k. I used to use liq moly for a little time 10/60 not any more and will never got back.
V8TT Motors get just as hot and they all use 5/30
![Image]()
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The more I look at this issue the less sure I am of the causes of the wear.
I'm in the UK and I bought my 2006 car at 90,000 miles 18 months ago. I am the 5th owner and it had only been serviced by BMW dealers with TWS. The oil had been changed on average every 16,000 miles, so when the OBC said it needed it.
So with 5 owners there's not chance they were all sympathetic and warmed it up before working it hard. The type of use it had won't have been the same - short /long journeys. It lived in Scotland so would have regularly seen 10F in the winter.
@ 90,000 miles I changed the bearings and they looked just like yours, no worse at all. It had 289/288 shells so they hadn't been done before. I replaced the bearings with 702/703 OEM shells and bolts and will continue to use 10W60.
Now I do warm the car up, I keep it between 2 & 3,000rpm until the oil temp hits 180F and don't use full revs until the oil hits 200F.
What I do know though is. If this engine had been fitted to a Ferrari or a Lamborghini, which is about the only other place you would see a 5 litre naturally aspirated engine giving 100+ BHP/litre. There would not be one whisper of moaning about rebuilds being needed at 60,000+ miles. It would be normal!
BMW's biggest mistake was fitting a supercar engine to a shopping/family car that looks just like a 520d. People bought them expecting them to have the running costs and reliability of that 520d
Originally Posted by M V10 Power View Post
You are
N I'm fully modded FBO Dave it hard AF. But I use Shaffer 5/50 with zinc which is perfect for Rod beearinfs. Yes it has more zinc for sure but that's the point.
It's an OLD myth that to much zinc kill cats. Please see video
https://youtu.be/PgXRNEukzn0
Also please see my bearings at 113k. I used to use liq moly for a little time 10/60 not any more and will never got back.
V8TT Motors get just as hot and they all use 5/30
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The more I look at this issue the less sure I am of the causes of the wear.
I'm in the UK and I bought my 2006 car at 90,000 miles 18 months ago. I am the 5th owner and it had only been serviced by BMW dealers with TWS. The oil had been changed on average every 16,000 miles, so when the OBC said it needed it.
So with 5 owners there's not chance they were all sympathetic and warmed it up before working it hard. The type of use it had won't have been the same - short /long journeys. It lived in Scotland so would have regularly seen 10F in the winter.
@ 90,000 miles I changed the bearings and they looked just like yours, no worse at all. It had 289/288 shells so they hadn't been done before. I replaced the bearings with 702/703 OEM shells and bolts and will continue to use 10W60.
Now I do warm the car up, I keep it between 2 & 3,000rpm until the oil temp hits 180F and don't use full revs until the oil hits 200F.
What I do know though is. If this engine had been fitted to a Ferrari or a Lamborghini, which is about the only other place you would see a 5 litre naturally aspirated engine giving 100+ BHP/litre. There would not be one whisper of moaning about rebuilds being needed at 60,000+ miles. It would be normal!
BMW's biggest mistake was fitting a supercar engine to a shopping/family car that looks just like a 520d. People bought them expecting them to have the running costs and reliability of that 520d
I thought this was a good read....i think I understood about 2 thirds of it. Good oil discussion at the end.
https://www.bebearings.com/PreviousAttempts.html
https://www.bebearings.com/PreviousAttempts.html
Yes, I must admit I was'nt comfortable with the car since I was afraid of the bearing shells status.
Copper just shows up actually, The kind of strips we can see on the surface still show some lead in the copper exhibits.
However I am a bit concerned on what could be the reason why the bank 2 bearing shells seem two times more worn than bank one's.
Copper just shows up actually, The kind of strips we can see on the surface still show some lead in the copper exhibits.
However I am a bit concerned on what could be the reason why the bank 2 bearing shells seem two times more worn than bank one's.
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