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Lower Oil Pan ( Gasket )

12K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  mgdmb  
#1 ·
I've ordered a time-sert kit to fix my oil drain plug. I also ordered a new gasket. The gasket
I received is paper, not metal. Do I need a metal gasket or can I use either ? I've read some
posts were people reuse the existing gasket as well, but I figured I'd replace mine.
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
h m m m m m...when I did my DIY I received a metal one which was what was in place before removal. I'd go with what ya know and send that paper one back.

Thanks ! On further inspection the gasket is indeed thin black metal. For some reason I thought at first glance it was dark back paper. I didn't want to open it, in case I had to return it.

My next problem seems to be that I don't have a microtorque wrench... I didn't realize the torque on this was that low (88 in/lb) Looks
like I will ordering a new wrench ;)
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Make sure you order new bolts for the lower sump too, and get them to the correct torque. One of my old ones sheared when torquing to the specified torque, so had to remove it all and start again with the new bolts.
I wasn't aware this needed to be removed... The DIY mentioned 25 bolts which hold the lower pan on. From what I've
read, removing the pan requires disconnecting the cable to the oil level sensor then the 25 bolts and its off....
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well I did the job this past weekend. Overall easy job... I was mostly worried about leaks when I
put the pan back on, but zero leaks. ( I did purchase a tekton 20-200 in/lb torque wrench $35 on amazon )

Removal of the 25 bolts was very easy ... once the car was up on jacks :)

I wanted to use a drill press to drill out the old threads, but my friends press didn't have a 1/2 chuck.
We ended up drilling a 1/2" hole in a small 2x4 that I then used as a guide to drill the pan. This helped me keep
the drill perpendicular to the pan while boring out the old threads ! I knew the aluminum would be soft, but you
really cant imagine how soft until you drill it. In reality, I do think you could bore it out using a tap handle and
the supplied drill bit from time-sert.

Tapping was very easy with the supplied tap and guide. I took it easy and used oil and compressed air as I went.
The new insert fit perfectly. I chose not to cut a groove all the way in the insert. I only only took out a bit at the
top with my dremel since I understand this is how the insert locks in place. I don't think it would lock as well if
you were to cut a groove into the insert like the one in the original pan. Of course this means I will end up with
perhaps a few oz extra oil in the pan but better that than a leak.

I used a new gasket. Cleaned off the surfaces with a rag then some 000 steel wool. I had no trouble getting the
pan back on. I used three steps.

1. Mount all 25 bolts hand tight. Just light enough to run them up and close the gap between the upper and lower pans.
2. Torque the bolts to 20 inch pounds in a cross / plus pattern. Basically alternating across the pan.
3. Torque again at 88 inch pounds in same fashion.

Filled with oil and ran the car for a few minutes. All was clean and dry around the pan. I ended up replacing the
oil drain plug with a new magnetic one from ECS Tuning.

After two days and about 150 miles, I checked again and noticed a drip. It wasn't from the pan, but from the
power steering pump. Never noticed it but I ended up replacing the "one time use" clamp with a stainless screw
type.

I now have a "used once" time-sert kit for sale ... pm me if interested. $70