[Cohny]

Woooo! Got my first SES light about a week ago. A moment for the baby book, they grow up so fast :hihi:

So today I spent all day today getting INPA setup so I could read the codes. As a result, I don't have the hex numbers, I found a list that has the regular long form versions.

I got the following codes:
143 - E-Box Fan
57 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Left
77 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor (DME Internal)
75 - VANOS Retard Valve - Inlet Bank 2
74 - VANOS Advance Valve - Inlet Bank 2
178 - Catalytic Converter Efficiency Bank 1
210 - Misfire Cyl 6 without Cyl Cutout
211 - Misfire Cyl 7 without Cyl Cutout
213 - Misfire Multiple Cylinders without Cyl Cutout
208 - Misfire Cyl 4 without Cyl Cutout
209 - Misfire Cyl 5 without Cyl Cutout
174 - Fuel System Diagnosis Bank 1
72 - VANOS Retard Valve - Inlet Bank 1
67 - VANOS Advance Valve - Inlet Bank 1
179 - Catalytic Converter Efficiency Bank 2
149 - Fuel Level 150 DME Memory Fault

:confused3

The only thing I've done recently is replace the MAFs with the VW Bosch models. I probably wouldn't have purchased these myself, but the PO purchased them and included them with the car. From what I was able to find, lots of people are running these with no issues, so I'm not really convinced they are the problem. The only other thing I've done recently that seems like it could affect the engine is I replaced spark plugs and performed the vanos solenoid boards maintenance.

I replaced the MAFs before the I did the board maintenance, and I didn't get an SES light. The car felt better afterwards. I performed the vanos solenoid boards maintenance and the car felt better. It eliminated this phenomenon where the car would knock once if I stabbed the throttle at idle which was awesome.

The car didn't throw the SES light until a week or two later on a very cold morning. The light came on but nothing felt wrong, the car ran fine. However, ever since that morning my mileage has been disastrous. I'm averaging like 12.8 mpg and I can tell the car is running rich. The only other issue is the throttle is really odd and twitchy until the car is warm, at which point it pretty much goes away. Other than that the car feels normal.

As this is the first time I've pulled codes, I'm not sure how long any of these have been around. I decided not to clear them because I wasn't sure what the next step is. I did read that after an MAF replacement it may be a good idea to resent the adaptations as the new sensors could throw off the adapted relationship between the MAFs and the oxygen sensors. Is this true? Should I try it? Not really sure what else to say. Looking at that list it just doesn't seem like any of those are really happening judging by the way the car drives.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

 

[mgdmb]

Clear the codes and drive it for a week / or until the SES comes on again, then pull the codes. If you haven't cleared them under your ownership, all bets are off.

 

[Cohny]

Clear the codes and drive it for a week / or until the SES comes on again, then pull the codes. If you haven't cleared them under your ownership, all bets are off.

Ok I cleared the codes this morning and so far so good. I will report back when it comes on again. In the meantime I'm going to check the fuel trims during lunch today as I'm still averaging like 12.8 mpgs...

 

[SidekickChuck]

Stalls and had to tow home

First time I've been stranded by the car since purchased in 2007. Had to get towed home and used the Peake reader. See the video for codes. I think I read it right "Air fuel adaptation bank 1 &2. Fuel control bank 1 & 2, fuel pump relay, " but I could be wrong.

 

[TMcNasty]

4. The first thing a Peake reports is a table number. No matter what you see, look up Table 18.

FWIW I just got a new Peake reader (from an eBay seller not Peake themselves) and it told me to go to Table 1b not 18. Are we all still 100% sure this means the reader is defective or something? How was Table 18 proven to be the only possibility? I see more than one reply in this thread where people are getting 1b as their table.

edit: I just spoke the man himself Dan Peake. I told him about this thread and the 18 vs. 1b showing for certain people. The Peake tool is NOT BROKEN. Our ECU's have multiple hardware revisions and/or processors. Dan thinks his tool "chokes" on a few of these and shows 1b vs. 18. We are definitely supposed to be using table 18 as stated above.
I also counted up 208 codes on table 18 and only 182 on 1b. I asked Dan if the tool reports 1b when it should have said 18 is it now looking at the wrong table and therefore "hiding" 26 codes or unable to show all 208 to users. He stated clearly the answer was no and that the tool will display all codes correctly. The displaying of the table and the searching of the codes are unrelated. They're going to update the manual to explain this "bug."

 

[Haywood]

Looks like you can't buy the Peake tool anymore. Are there any other alternatives that people are using? Just got my first SES light this weekend. Thanks.

 

[MShimon]

Hello all, great thread! I pulled two codes from my Peake R5 / FCX-II this past weekend.

Table 18
0E - Tank small leak (Note, I interpreted the backwards number 3 shown on the screen to represent E, let me know if I mis-interpreted)
69 - Engine coolant temperature, plausibility

Is Code 0E representative of requiring a new fuel filler cap? Any other items I should be looking at? I don't see or smell any fuel leaking. The vehicle has been sitting dormant for a few months during our PNW winter (mostly rainy and a bit cold, 40s deg. F).

From what I've read Code 69 essentially states to replace the thermostat and maybe the upper and / or lower temperature sensors. Any other items I should look at?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Sailor24]

Hello all, great thread! I pulled two codes from my Peake R5 / FCX-II this past weekend.

Table 18
0E - Tank small leak (Note, I interpreted the backwards number 3 shown on the screen to represent E, let me know if I mis-interpreted)
69 - Engine coolant temperature, plausibility

Is Code 0E representative of requiring a new fuel filler cap? Any other items I should be looking at? I don't see or smell any fuel leaking. The vehicle has been sitting dormant for a few months during our PNW winter (mostly rainy and a bit cold, 40s deg. F).

From what I've read Code 69 essentially states to replace the thermostat and maybe the upper and / or lower temperature sensors. Any other items I should look at?

Thanks in advance!

You have the gist of 69 code and there are tons of posts on it, but when you say thermostat that also includes the seal. Don't forget the seal it is just as important, and likely only the top sensor can have anything to do with that code. If the lower sensor fails you will notice the fan running when it should not be.

The 0E code is a lot more than the gas cap. It is a small vapor leak in the sealed gas tank system also called the evaporation system. Best thing to do is pull the plenum and at the elbow that joins the evap system to the idle air system disconnect the Evap system and charge it with very low PSI of compressed air in a very quiet location and listen for the leak. The thing about small leaks is they can be loud, so easy to find, not always, you know Murphy's law.

 

[MShimon]

You have the gist of 69 code and there are tons of posts on it, but when you say thermostat that also includes the seal. Don't forget the seal it is just as important, and likely only the top sensor can have anything to do with that code. If the lower sensor fails you will notice the fan running when it should not be.

The 0E code is a lot more than the gas cap. It is a small vapor leak in the sealed gas tank system also called the evaporation system. Best thing to do is pull the plenum and at the elbow that joins the evap system to the idle air system disconnect the Evap system and charge it with very low PSI of compressed air in a very quiet location and listen for the leak. The thing about small leaks is they can be loud, so easy to find, not always, you know Murphy's law.

Thanks a lot Sailor24 for the diagnosis and advice! I will try these out and report back.

 

[MShimon]

Just an update here. I put a little bit of grease on the fuel cap rubber seal. Cleared the codes and took it for a 40 mile drive. About a month later, which is today, and continual use of the vehicle I have not had any codes re-appear. I'll keep an eye on it and source the thermostat parts and fuel cap for probable future replacement. Thanks for the assistance!

 

[manualshifter]

The thing with the thermostat it’s all about how quickly the coolant warms up to correct operating temp, and whether it can maintain that temp. Running below that temp, which is 79c is not good for the engine, leading to over rich, poor fuel consumption, carbon img up, and you likely see black soot across your rear bumper.. Open the secret menu in your cluster and go to test 5 I think or maybe it’s 7, and monitor your ktemp from start up. You should attain 79c within 15 minutes, and cruising on the highway in top gear at least 60 mph on a cool night with no vehicle in front of you, it should not drop below 79 or at very minimum 78c
Mine never set the 69 code the first time I replaced the tstat, but it had all the symptoms, and ran poor. The second time I replaced it, it did set the code a couple of times.
For a while after replacing it warmed up real fast and maintained about 80c on the hwy. it’s back down to about 78 now on a hwy cruise at night, but since I’m in Aus and it’s mostly warm down here, I’m gettting away with it for now. They seem to only last about 4 years.Various threads on here about mods you can do to thermos. Have a look.

 

[PaulRuffo]

Hi Guys,

I'm running into what I think/thought is a VANOS issue and would really appreciate your expertise on the matter.

Car threw a CE light and a list of codes presented: (initially 53,72, and 0C, then the others followed after I drove it on a another occasion)

• 53 - “Exhaust camshaft VANOS advance valve, Cyl #5-8”
• 72 - “Exhaust camshaft VANOS position control, Cyl #5-8”
• 2C - Thermal oil level sensor
• 0C - “PreCat oxygen sensor, Cyl #5-8”
• D1 - “Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #5”
• D2 - “Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #6”
• D3 - “Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #7”
• D4 - “Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #8”
• D5 - “Misfire during warm-up, multiple cylinders”
• C8 - “Misfire, Cyl #5”
• C9 - “Misfire, Cyl #6”
• CA - “Misfire, Cyl #7”
• C6 - “Misfire, Cyl #3”
• CC - “Misfire, multiple cylinders”

What I've done so far:

1. Swapped out the exhaust CPS on the driver's side (cyl 5-8)...no change
2. Pulled the VANOS solenoids, tested them with a 9v battery and all activated. Sprayed them out with brake cleaner, and blew compressed air through as I activated them. on 3 of them a bunch of oil splattered out.

Current state: The car runs "better", but still "blatty" sounding like you'd expect from a bad exhaust cam sensor, and not as responsive as it should be.

A couple of the codes seem confusing.

• 2C thermal oil sensor
• C6 - “Misfire, Cyl #3” - most of the codes point to cylinders 5-8, so a code on 3 seems

I'm thinking about resetting the codes and seeing what comes back. Any insights would be huge!!

Thanks,
Paul

 

[mgdmb]

Pull the plug, check the insulator for cracks. If good, re-install and swap coil pack from #2 to #3 and see if the code follows to #2

 

[PaulRuffo]

Thanks, good idea...I'll do that.

I just reset the codes and took it for a drive. Codes 53 and 72 came back right away. No others yet.

 

[mgdmb]

Dumb question, but are you sure the electrical connector is fully seated?


If so, I'd swap the solenoid boards from side to side and see if the code follows. Some of the solder joints might be bad, they'll present as intake codes on the other side (iirc)

 

[PaulRuffo]

Dumb question, but are you sure the electrical connector is fully seated?


If so, I'd swap the solenoid boards from side to side and see if the code follows. Some of the solder joints might be bad, they'll present as intake codes on the other side (iirc)

Not dumb at all..I thought the same as I was plugging them back in. I sprayed out the connector with electronics cleaner, but did not have any di-electric grease to apply. I'm pretty sure they are securely plugged in.

Great point! Can the boards be swapped from side to side? That would be fantastic!

 

[mgdmb]

Yep, sure can... have done it many times to help people troubleshoot things just like this...

 

[Sailor24]

53 - “Exhaust camshaft VANOS advance valve, Cyl #5-8”

Swap the boards just to confirm, but that code is the issue. Sometimes testing it can be a bear. There can be one of two things going on or you could have both. If the diode has shorted then a 9V battery will still supply enough electricity to activate the solenoid but the pulse from the DME does not have enough current to feed the short and drive the solenoid. So it tests fine with a 9V battery but really it is not fine. The other thing that happens is you have a break in continuity on the little board or one of the wires going to the little board from the main board, but when we test we most often put the test leads on the noid so we skip testing the rest of the board.
Two things to do is test the diode by de soldering one lead to the solenoid then testing. The second thing is to activate the noid first at the noid then the two outer positions on the small board. Then on the main board on the backside of the two wires that come from the little board, last also check it at the plug end. Seems like a lot to me so I would just de-solder the noid from the little board,just sucking off the solder but leaving the wires exactly how they are, add flux then add a few strands of wire to bridge the boards filament so solder flows from the wire feed to the noid wire, the flux is important because you can't clean it well enough but the flux will. That is a very common failure point and many can't find it during tests but the board works once re-soldered.

 

[PaulRuffo]

Sorry for the delay. Thank you for your guidance!! When I activated the solenoids, I did so from the points where the wires (from the plug) meet the main board, and wasn't impressed by the state of those solder joints. Based upon what you advised, I'm thinking that I should test the diodes next to see if one has failed, and re-solder the board. My main concern is damaging the circuit board when soldering. I've soldered wires together and to motors, but never messed with solder on a board. How fragile and easy to damage is it?

 

[Sailor24]

where the wires (from the plug) meet the main board,

Then you likely tested the system. The trouble spots, that are common are the little board by the noid and the two wires that go to the main board from that. I have not seen a problem anywhere else but other places have been reported. Including a bare wire that does not ground out until you put everything back together.
Soldering is not hard but soldering something old is. I always suck off the solder and add a tad of flux. The flux will clean. Most people damage things because they heat too long, and that is because the solder does not flow. It does not flow because things are dirty not because it is not hot enough. If you use flux it will greatly reduce the risk. Other than that choosing the right gun or iron is important. Too low a power means you have to hold for too long and that heat travels, too powerful and everything gets hot fast. It is better to err on the side of too powerful though, unless it is extreme.