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No it is not the MAFs you have several problems. 1B is not a code when it comes first, it means to use table 18 for reference, unless it showed 1B twice in a row. Even though 88 could cause idle problems, it might be there because of a reaction to the 72 and FC. The 72 and FC are likely responcible for most of the codes and that is the vanos solenoid board. There are quite a few DIYs posted on the board for repair. Pretty simple even at lower skill levels.

First thing you should do is clear the codes and see what comes back first, second etc. Start it and if the idle is off read the codes. Then drive and read the codes etc. Don't reset the codes after you do it once. Some codes take time to appear It would not surprise me if you have a bad vanos board and dirty idle control valve. Both are common. Are you going to fix this yourself or take it to a shop?
Well isht. I need to look at the diy's and see what all it entails, but i will probably do it by myself. Hopefully i can get to this tomorrow, but it's probably not going to happen for at least another week or two.
 

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Just a quick note to relay that I had the plenum pulled 9/14 and found 2 hose clamps loose/leaking. Tightened them up, changed the plugs which were pretty crusty and all is well so far. Pulls much better, no misfire, purge valve or small tank leak codes...yet. Thanks
 

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No it is not the MAFs you have several problems. 1B is not a code when it comes first, it means to use table 18 for reference, unless it showed 1B twice in a row. Even though 88 could cause idle problems, it might be there because of a reaction to the 72 and FC. The 72 and FC are likely responcible for most of the codes and that is the vanos solenoid board. There are quite a few DIYs posted on the board for repair. Pretty simple even at lower skill levels.

First thing you should do is clear the codes and see what comes back first, second etc. Start it and if the idle is off read the codes. Then drive and read the codes etc. Don't reset the codes after you do it once. Some codes take time to appear It would not surprise me if you have a bad vanos board and dirty idle control valve. Both are common. Are you going to fix this yourself or take it to a shop?
Sailor - I didn't drive the car over the last week (sitting at the airport) and when I got home I noticed that I am actively leaking oil. Within the 35 mile drive I got down to 1/3 oil levels. Could any of the above noted issues lead to leaking like this (or vice-versa)?

The only work that has been done since I got the car was an oil change 3500 miles ago. What hoses should I be following to look for leaks?

Thanks.
 

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Where is the oil leaking from? Open the air filters and see if you have oil on them, then lift them and look under. Yes vanos problems can cause oil leaks when the vanos on bank 2 has an excess of oil flowing through it. Both of your vanos codes are on bank 2. You should not drive the car until you get this sorted. There is a chance that it is not the board but more often it is just the board.
 

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Good thing you posted those codes, because Peake tables have mixed up two.
To start 1B actually tells you the table to use which is 18 and 18 only for the M5, why it is 1b on the machine,???
The next one is E8 which is a failed evaporator valve which is very common and will set the light, do you have a light? There is not a diy in either of the indexs for this repair but if you search this forum for Evap or evaporator valve you will find tons.
46/47 are both knock sensors on bank 2 and I find it hard to believe they have both failed. 46 and 45 in the peake tables have the definitions switched. 46 is knock sensor on cyl 5-6 and 47 is 7-9.

I would suggest you clear the codes and see what comes back the 46 and 47 maybe left over from a test or old and not relevant, for that matter so could the E8 if you don't have the light on.
 

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Where is the oil leaking from? Open the air filters and see if you have oil on them, then lift them and look under. Yes vanos problems can cause oil leaks when the vanos on bank 2 has an excess of oil flowing through it. Both of your vanos codes are on bank 2. You should not drive the car until you get this sorted. There is a chance that it is not the board but more often it is just the board.
Thanks. I've started another thread for this issue. Can you possibly respond there so as not to taint this thread?
 

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Had very weird thing happen today

Car started to idle and pull funny. It was misfiring so I thought maybe coils

Used my Autel diagnostic tool and came back with 'misfiring on cyl 7 and 8 with cylinder cutout'

Changed those coils with couple from my E46 330ci (also Bremi) and car was ok briefly. Started ok but after a 30 second drive started to behave funny again and misfire badly.

Went back to diagnostic and came back with cyl 8 misfire. So I swapped that coil again for another one to see if the cyl 8 coil would fail in new spot. After a short drive again car acted up and cylinder 8 again to blame.

Final thing I did was to swap cylinder 8 and cylinder 5 spark plugs around to see maybe that's causing the issue. After driving the car for maybe 15 mins it's still running fine. I do have new plugs on their way so maybe that's the issue.

Any other advice on what it could be??

Error codes were

CA
CB
CC
 

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Hi, all. I just pulled the following codes:

AA - secondary air system (had for a while and am aware of the general cause/fix)
69 -engine temp coolant plausibility
CD - misfire during warmup cyl 1
D0 - misfire during warmup cyl 4
D3 - misfire during warmup cyl 7
D4 - misfire during warmup cyl 8
D5 - misfire during warmup, multiple cyl

I've replaced the t-stat (two times over the last year-ish, as I thought the new t-stat I received could be faulty), the coolant temp sensor for the fan, and the two stage coolant sensor on the t-stat housing. Been getting the 69 code for years despite t-stat changes prior to this year and the most recent changes.

Cylinder misfires have been happening for a bit, as well. Moving the coils does not seem to impact, though the list of misfires does vary and has increased over time. For a period I would get d2 d3 and d5 together.

New VANOS seals a year or two ago. MAFs about 5 yrs ago. 4 new CPS sensors about three years ago. New spark plugs a couple years ago. Rebuilt injectors last year. Coils are original, and the car has 124,000 miles.

Today, I was prompted to check my codes again because I received an SES light after the car was feeling a bit down on power. It also definitely felt like it was misfiring under acceleration, a feeling that would generally go away if I kept the RPMs high. It basically feels like its lugging at lower RPMs, requiring higher RPMs for the engine to feel smooth. I've found that this can happen when it's rather hot out (90+ deg F), but this was worse than usual and it was about 80 deg today.

With that, wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what I should check next. Why would the misfires all be "during warmup" even if I'm feeling misfires post warmup? Are there any other reasons for the 69 code beyond the t-stat and sensors? I have not checked my coolant temp in the secret menu in a bit, but it was reading a little low 76-78, not always reaching 79-80C a few months ago, and the temp gauge is a bit left of center. I'm getting to be a pro at the t-stat change, but it's getting a little old :) Any suggestions/ideas welcome. Thank you!
 

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The seal that goes around the T-stat can cause this code so change it. Recently we have seen quite a few tps errors causing misfires. When there are codes they don't suggest the problem being severe, since you have done the other obvious things I would change them. I have been changing them on all the cars I see now unless previously changed.
 

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Thanks, Sailor. I neglected to mention that during one of my t-stat changes last year I actually changed the seal, as well. Perhaps I did not put it in right :-/ As you likely know, the seal is quite a pain to remove. Perhaps I installed it at the wrong orientation (unlikely though). That's really the only thing I can think of that might be causing the persistent 69 code. After one of the t-stat changes the car was running at the temps it should, but that did not last very long.

Thanks for the tps suggestion. They're one of the few things I have not changed in my efforts to thwart the misfires. They may be failing so I'll give changing them a try.
 

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As hard as the seal is to get out, it is a snap to put in. I doubt you did that wrong. There is one more thing that can cause the 69 code that is simple. The plug gets warn and makes pour contact. What people do is apply a little solder to the pins on the senor to make them bigger resulting in better contact. The plug could also be replaced.
 

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Good point, Sailor. Admittedly, I attempted the solder trick a couple months ago. I'm a poor hand when it comes to soldering/didn't have the best iron, and I melted the sender's plastic housing (don't laugh). Replaced it with a new sender and called it a day. A safer approach might be for me to just get a new plug. According to realoem, you have to rebuild the plug with a combo of 4 new connectors/housing/rubber stoppers. A complete plug and play (pun intended) new plug does not seem to be available, unless I'm missing something.
 

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That is possible, it is not my fix. When this issue first came up I had no problems, but next time I was screwing with the car I released the pins in the plug and bent them a bit. I had no problem it was preventative.
If you know how to release the pins from the plug this may work for you.
 

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DM-TL (first Peake code)

My '01 M5 has just developed an engine miss of some type and a bit of associated "popping" --similar symptoms of a bad coil. I have, from time to time now, had a fuel odor in the cabin that I've not been able to figure out. The codes are:

1B (one bravo) - DM-TL switching valve
D0 - Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #4
CF - Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #3
D3 - Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #7
D5 - Misfire during warm-up, multiple cylinders

Has anyone else ever troubleshooted this code/condition? Based on this first code, this DM-TL device (inside left wheel housing) seems a part of pressurizing the fuel system as part of a test during startup.

Pat Arnold
 

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The valve sits on top of the charcoal canister in the left rear wheel well, pretty easy to change out (I did mine about two years ago)

Make sure to get the right Valley, the connection changed at some point. RealOEM should show the change over date. @Clemster is a good source for these...
 

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The valve sits on top of the charcoal canister in the left rear wheel well, pretty easy to change out (I did mine about two years ago)

Make sure to get the right Valley, the connection changed at some point. RealOEM should show the change over date. @Clemster is a good source for these...
Thanks for the information. Did you have similar symptoms as what I described?
 

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Are you getting 1b and then 1b again or only once. If it is only once and you are using a Peake reader then the 1b is referring to the table you use to read the codes from which is table 18. You can ignore that because it is not a code if that is the case. If you are smelling gas and you don't have the E8 code then you likely have a broken fuel line. There are 3 places I have seen one under the drivers rear seat. Normally you will see some residue on the ground once the car has been shutdown and left to sit in that spot, or if you leave it idling in place. The other two places are basically the same spot at the back of the motor where the lines "T" to join the fuel rails. Usually no residue there because it bounces and evaporates before it gets to the ground. The only way to find them is remove the plenum and let the car idle and look.
 
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