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Fernando,
Would you please send pictures or procedures on how to accomplish. Also, how did you arrive at a 20HP gain, and formulas. Is your M5 stock?

Thanks,

JDS M5

 

Fernando,

Where did you find the material to do it?

Will appreciate the information.

Thank you

Luis

 

Why doesn't BMW use an insulated air box and get the 20hp themselves? Are they just lazy, or do they have issues with the insulated air box making the engine too hot?

What kind of insulator and glue did you use?

 

I try to put the pics,but it's not avaliable the site in the page.But i will give the site. Enter in www.nowack-tuning.de choose the N500 when this site open go to test magazine and enter in the BMW AUGUST 2000.There you will see the pics.
To install you need to remove the pancake airbox , when you opened the top cover you will see 8 duct of air but be carefully when you fixed they you need to respect the right side.After removing the 8 duct of air you will remove the rst of pancake airbox and you will see the engine.Then just glue the material isolating the top of the engine and put in top of the material the complete pancake airbox.
This material a friend of mine bought in germany.But it's easy to find i think.It's a reflective material ,it's an isolant thermic for the heat.

 

KGK i think the BMW will do this in the 2002 or 2003 M-5 that comes with 430 HP.They will isolate the pancaque airbox and will make changes in the software.

 

Header insulating tape is perfect for the job. You can get it from most auto parts stores. It is reflective/insulated on one side and self adhesive on the other. It's what hot rodder use to wrap their headers to keep in heat and also increase power.

 

All:

I tried the adhesive tape idea a few months back. With the heat from the engine the tape releases and falls free. I thought it might be an issue since on the box it said to secure the ends when wraping the pipe so they do not come free.

TRUST me on this one. If you use the tape it will fall off.

Soooooo a bit more infomation on what you used would help greatly. I had the intake off and it is not that hard to do. Be careful not to drop anything in the chambers though.

Later

 

I asked my mechanic about this one day and his answer was to send the intake plenum cover to get it ceramic coated?? He said I should either:

1) buy a second one (obviously more cost involved with this selection and send it off to get coated.

or

2) send the one already on the car to be coated.. ovbviously resulting in the car being down until you get it back?

Anyone have any comments on this approach? Is this what Nowack uses to lower the intake temperatures?

Heck, I'd invest in this approach to get 20 HP!!

 

Do you have PROOF of a 20hp gain? I'd love to see it on a dyno.

There are SO many other variables. If there's no air circulation around there, then it will be just as hot to the sides and above the box. Besides, the inlet air temperature has much more to do with the temperature of the air coming in than the temperature of the box. That air is moving FAST - so the box won't change its temperature much. We're not talking about an intercooler radiator here. I feel difference in HP between, say, a 45 (F) day and a 75 (F) day - but that is outside air temp. I don't know whether its good for 20hp or not. But I find it hard to believe that changing the BOX temp 20 degrees will change the air temp more than one or two degrees - again, it is moving through there real, real fast.

I admit, I am the resident skeptic. I would LOVE to see some proof of these gains. If it IS true, it is a cheap fix.

 

I saw at Dinan a ceramic coated one they experimented wiyh and their copnclusion as I recall was little gain for the reason Greg just stated.

 

Andy,

Is the ceramic coating your talking about like Jet-Coat. This is also a ceramic
coating material , but I thought is was applied at high temperatures so it wouldn't work
on the intake. (the intake pan plastic right?)

 

Paul,

I suspected that Dinan had or was going to experiment with this? Sounds like it may not be worth the trouble? Probably won't hurt, but certainly may not provide enough gains to make it worthwhile.

 

The pan is aluminum type metal....

Tim

 

Here's a little math:

The engine displaces 5 liters. That means it sucks in 2.5 liters of air with every revolution. (It's a 4-stroke - air is sucked in to each cylinder every other revolution.) Therefore at 6000 RPM, 6000 * 2.5 or 15,000 liters of outside air rushes through the airbox every minute. That's 250 liters per second.

Now, a rough estimate (very rough, to make the math easy) is that the airbox has about 8 square feet of surface area - 4 on the bottom, 4 on the top. Lowering the bottom by 20 degrees would be equivalent to lowering the entire surface by 10 degrees.

Who can tell me just how much less you will raise the temperature of 75 degree (f) outside air when it is passed by 8 sq. feet of surface at, say, 180 degrees (f) instead of 190, at 250 liters per second?

I don't know the answer, but it is clear (to ME, anyway) that the effect is NEGLIGIBLE!!!!!!

 

I have just figured it out. I am heading over to Cape Canaveral now with a hammer and chisel. I am going to remove about 10 Lockheed Thermal Protection System (TPS) tiles from the Space Shuttle Discovery before it launches at 5:38EDT on August 9th.

Why will this work? Here is the math I used and the horsepower gain is at bottom. I have also solved the above mentioned adhesive problem by using the ladder polymer system based on the condensation product of chlorendic acid and pyromellitic dianhydride. Grace Chemical has the adhesive available for $15,800 per pint. Other possibilities are low melting point borate glasses which bind well to glass fibre and can form strong bonds with steel and aluminum.

T (Transmission co-efficient in the medium of propagation) = 4Z1Z2 /(Z1 + Z2 )2

MATERIAL Zm (Mrayl) INTERFACE Fig. 1 TRANSMISSION CO-EFFICIENT equation 1 ENERGY TRANSFER equation 2NW TOTAL ENERGY LOSS AT INTERFACES a + b ()


In Air In Water In Air In Water In Air In Water
Steel
51.0 Air - Steel
a Steel - Air, b 0.000034
0.000034 0.11
0.11 -89
-89 -19
-19 178 38
Aluminum
17.0 Air - Aluminum, a
Aluminum - Air, b 0.0001
0.0001 0.3
0.3 -79
-79 -10
-10 158 20
Acrylic
3.5 Air - Acrylic, a
Acrylic - Air, b 0.0005
0.0005 0.84
0.84 -66
-66 -1.5
-1.5 132 3
Silicone
Rubber
1.0 Air - Rubber, a
Rubber - Air, b 0.018
0.018 0.96
0.96 -35
-35 -0.35
-0.35 70 <1
TABLE II: Transmission co-efficients and energy transfer in selected materials at various interfaces in the non-contact mode, per Fig. 1. As a reference, similar data for water is also shown. Z (air) = 440Rayl. Z (water): 1.5Mrayl. 1 Rayl = kg/m2.s.


Total HP gain in S62 engine (M5)= 3.7 BHP

MJ
'01 Anthracite-soon with Space Shuttle tiles!!!!

 

Ahh - but do you have the left-halnded Gangley wrench required for installation of the pheradestat?

 

Thermotec makes a great adhesive heat shield. Header tape is not the way to go. The adhesive is rated to 300 degrees and it reflects temps to 2000 degrees. Find them at:

http://www.thermotec.com/tt/

 

Has anyone used this Thermotec tape?

 

Fernando,
How reliable are your sources quoting 430 h.p. for the 2002 or 2003 M5? I haven't read that anywhere. I'am curious because I have a 2002 on order. Thanks Bill

 

Fernando,

I see you have a Nowack ECU unit. They are quoting 22hp. This sounds very high since Dinan is getting 0hp. Please tell us your experience with this unit. I believe it is about $2,500.00. I have requested information from Nowack about their headers and am interested what kind of experience people have had with their products.

Thanks

 

Fernando, where did you hear about the increase in hp for 2002 M5's? I have a '02 Beast coming and would be very curious as to your source. Thanks.

 

The original quotation re: 20bhp increase is from a UK magazine called BMW Car and it appeared about a year ago (whole article about Nowack modified M5 - called the 'Dark Destroyer'). I too have a '02 on order and would like to know if there is a hp increase, although I very much doubt it (they'll wait for the E60).

 

Fernando,

I see you have a Nowack ECU unit. They are quoting 22hp. This sounds very high since Dinan is getting 0hp. Please tell us your experience with this unit. I believe it is about $2,500.00. I have requested information from Nowack about their headers and am interested what kind of experience people have had with their products.

Thanks

Several BMW tuners such as Kelleners Sport, Novack, Hartge, DigiTec, Superchips, etc. provide SW that gives around 20hp and around 30 Nm gain. I know that Kelleners' and Novack's SW have been verified on Dynos all occasions where the tuning hs taken place at their locations.

That Dinan can't do it only proves that there are other tuners that are skilled enough to do the job they can't.

As for Novack, I was there when Sean had his wife's car's ECU tuned, the tuning was done on a dyno and the gain was verified on the spot with dyno runs before and after. Also Olivier Novack seems very competent and I was very impressed with there accomplishments.

I've also driven a car with the full N500 kit and it was very impressive, clearly faster than stock and mine and my car which has around 425hp.

Cheers,
/Johan

 

I heard from BMW of germany that in 2003 they will change the vanos and make a re-software upgrade.I don't know if it's true.
I am very satifates with Nowack Ecu...and the material that i put is recomended from Oliver Nowack.In his site the magazine wrote that with that change you win 20 HP. I didn't put into a dyno to see the numbers because here in Bazil it's difficult to find the dyno for car with over 350 HP.I can tell you guys that this change that i made i felt difference.
Regards for all.
Guys the Castrol from Brazil told me that they took off the RS 10W-60 and change for 0W-30, this oils is better???

 

I, too, saw the Dinan ceramic coated plenum and think it is a
good idea, but not for 20 bhp. Dinan believes it's good for
5 bhp. Some combination of this plus the Thermo-tec probably
is worth it.

Rick