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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Hi,

Thanks for your interest.

However I cannot report great success...The car has started but since I have been troubleshooting a sync issue.

I have disabled the CAM sensor to simplify the initial startup. So I am running only the Crank sensor, using batch injection and wasted spark.

The current problem I have is that the ECU resets itself for a short period of time when I have the coils connected (fuse plugged in). However, when this fuse is out, the ECU runs great.

I found that the engine timing is perfect using a timing light.

Now I am going back and forth with OMEX (ECU manufacturers) trying to figure out what is causing this issue...

I will keep this updated but by the end of January I will be moving to Australia, therefore I hope to solve this issue before that day.

Paulo
 
Hi Paulo,

Hope you get it sorted, I've heard about VR senors can be troublesome to sync with some ecu's (perticulary when used as cam senor), is the cable properly shielded? A hall sensor might solve your syncing problems but I suspect you so be able to get is sorted using the stock sensor.

Could it be that your coils are drawing to much power and causing the ecu reset? Have you fed your coils directly from the battery, coils and ECU on a separate feed?

Here are some pictures/dimensions of the B38 cams sensors. If you need any more please let me know as I haven't mounted it yet. Hope it helps.








PS: Are you moving to Australia permanently or is it temporary?

Regards,
Angelo
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Success FINALLY!

IT'S ALIVE!!! Thanks for asking

I managed to start it up 2 days ago. Turns out that all that was required was replacing the Y6DC OEM spark plugs for a model with built in resistors (NGK DR8ES I believe). The lack of resistor was causing severe electromagnetic noise that was resetting the ECU.

After the plugs were changes, it took two minutes to start the car and have a stable idle (950 rpm using scatter spark method). All is perfect, rpm signal, sensor values, the ECU responds perfectly to laptop changes and the software is quite intuitive for such a small company.

I checked timing alignment with a strobe light and it was spot on (I had checked it before).

Tuningwise I used 10Âş for base idle and 15Âş everywhere else. This was enough for good enough response and I wasn't interested in perfecting it too much. I focused on the fuel mixture, first with the car on stands and neutral, then yesterday night I went for a ride with my brother on the wheel and myself on the laptop.

I am having severe intake charge heat soak issues with my aftermarket intake, which makes it harder to tune . the IAT would swing from 20Âş up to 70Âş grrrrrrr as soon as the speed dropped a little. I didn't have IAT compensations properly tuned.

Anyways I managed to tune a few cells and the car was quite good in steady state. I didn't tune the transient response so the car was going lean when the throttle was pressed and then would stabilise. This produced bad response when you suddenly pressed the throttle.

Today I had o move the car to a storage and took the gamble of driving 40+km on my tune and everything just worked, no gliches, some tuning on the highway with a friend just for fun (fuel only) and it felt damn good to make this sucker work!

I can tell you it is a very rewarding experience and an area I will be pursuing actively in AUS.

Car is in storage for 1 year now.

About the EMU, it looks amazing price for the features. I think that it would have been a serious candidate for me but it wasn't available at the time. I haven't looked into the software and usability part.

If I had the time I would rent a brake dyno for a day and properly tune this bad boy, hopefully with some knock detection gear, but no money and no time now.

Your thoughts?:biggrinbounce:

Regards,
Paulo
 
Hi Paulo,

Super you've got it working now the hard part starts! So you're runnning full sequential with the stock vr cam sensor?
I really wouldn't have expected the sparkplugs would cause issues, especially as you're running coil on plug. Could you check if these NGK DR8ES are the plugs you're using as I'll order these just in case as well when I get round to fitting my ECU as a troubleshooting help.
Do you still have the original airbox? this would solve you're heat soack issues imediately I think?

Yeah the EMU does seem great value for money I just ordered mine a couple of weeks ago and it should arrive somewhere next week. I slipped an order in just before the price raise as it seems as the next official software release 1.1 will be in a couple of days I think. (I ordered the EMU, wiring loom, bosch wideband and 2 EGT sensors for just above €700) Yeah it has been available for 2 years now antd they've been updating the software with functions over the past year the product seems to have become more mature by now with functions people were asking for.

Maybe I should wait a year and install mine when you're back, so you can map it for me you should be an expert by then. ;)

Regards,
Angelo
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Angelo,

Yes hopefully I will have mastered this art!

I'm running batch injection based on the crank sensor. I didn't have time to try out the Vr cam input but the ECU is setup for that. It didn't work before but that must have been because of the spark plug issue.

I have a theory about the spark plugs. In the OEM configuration, the coils themselfs had the resistor built into them because from my research, no electronic device like an ECU likes non resistor spark plugs. The VAG COP I'm using don't have this resistor which caused the issue I had. This is just speculation.

The plugs that I recommend based on my research (and advice from people more knowledgeable than myself) are Bosch XR4CS or NGK DR8ES.

I believe the NGKs are cheaper and work perfect in my situation. Another thing to consider: these 2 coils above use a different hex - Y6DC use 16mm spark plug socket while both of the above are 11/16" socket, which is 18mm. To use this on the S38 you need to buy an 18mm spark plug socket and turn in down on the lathe a little for it to work in the tight plug hole of the engine.

Regards,
Paulo
 
Paulo,

Superb info thanks! I may just get lucky as the adapters (actually just one yet as I've managed to wreck on the other plug sockets on the lathe :( so'll only the first one worked perfectly so I'll have to investigate what I did different that time, but I'm not giving up) measure 5,5 k ohm this may actually be enough to run the 6ydc plugs without interference let's hope so.

Ps: Did the people at OMEX point out the possible issue to you or did you have to do the research yourself?

Cheers,
Angelo
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Hi,

Yes they did point that out as a possible cause, but there were so many different possibilities that I didn't explore that one until later when I researched spark plugs manufacturers' nomenclature and found for certain that Y6DC had no resistor (no R letter on the name).

It has to be said, OMEX offered amazing support, even though I got the ECU through ebay. We exchanged 120+ emails with data logs, pictures diagrams, etc. They were perfect in my opinion - great experience and the ECU has been dead stable so far. I am taking it to Australia with me :biggrinbounce:

Paulo
 
Hi Tomba,

I expected it was you on the ECU master forum, seems I was right. ;)

Replied on that forum as well regarding primary trigger.
Yes it was me :). The manual is a bit wierd and it seems everyone set's there trigger wheel configuration different in different ECUs. Megasquirt, KMS and now EMU seem to handle different setting methods.


Are you running the EMU on LPG? Were are you located in Holland?
 
I should receive my EMU next thursday, so I'm not running one or do have any physical expericence with the product but have done some research.

At the moment I'm preparing a slightly modified engine for my daily driver:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e34-m5-discussion/361458-home-rebuild-s38b36.html

It's converted to LPG and on stock management at the moment, but I've got the feeling it isn't performing to it's full potential on LPG. Since it's a closed system I can't do any adjustments on the system myself. So with the planned engine swap I decided I wanted to optimize it for the modifications and optimize for both fuels. (Or run it suboptimal but safe on LPG as I suspect it's running lean above 5500 RPM as I believe the pump is only rated to 280Hp)

I'm located below Eindhoven at the Belgium border.
 
I should receive my EMU next thursday, so I'm not running one or do have any physical expericence with the product but have done some research.

At the moment I'm preparing a slightly modified engine for my daily driver:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e34-m5-discussion/361458-home-rebuild-s38b36.html

It's converted to LPG and on stock management at the moment, but I've got the feeling it isn't performing to it's full potential on LPG. Since it's a closed system I can't do any adjustments on the system myself. So with the planned engine swap I decided I wanted to optimize it for the modifications and optimize for both fuels. (Or run it suboptimal but safe on LPG as I suspect it's running lean above 5500 RPM as I believe the pump is only rated to 280Hp)

I'm located below Eindhoven at the Belgium border.
My colleague is an EMU dealer. Have you ordered yours in NL?

What kind of LPG system is on the engine? Vialle? As I have some experience adjusting these...
I'm in the north of noord-holland (Hoorn region). So we're not that close to each other.
 
Nope I've ordered mine in Poland, at TOMSON.com

Yes its'a Vialle system, I'm running the biggest injectors (dark brown so they should be adequate).

Despite the distance it might be good to meet up sometime, can you program the vialle system?
 
To those concerned,,,

a small offtopic

I do not have any tech knowledge on these standalone systems,, except i know they are different in some way and other can support X signals and give Y that etc etc and then the cost is A LOT more ,,, vs cheaper standalones

i have a great interest for this and as i am running MS2 on my V12,,, and to be honest it is so simple vs oem

i ask just for curiosity .. the choose for OMEX 710 ,, vs VEMS or MEGA-SQUIRT or another ,,, and what is the price for this,, is there any benefit etc etc

is the price range around 1000€ ,, or more or less ??

regards
 
Nope I've ordered mine in Poland, at TOMSON.com

Yes its'a Vialle system, I'm running the biggest injectors (dark brown so they should be adequate).
Vialle, that is good to know. Do you know if you have 2 ECU's, 1 for controlling and 1 for the activation of the injectors?
Since the LPG injectors are low-empedance you need current control to prevent high currents.

The switchable maps would be best for you to run on petrol and LPG. Since the ECU gets its signals from the main injectors and adjust these for the LPG injectors you would need to connect the switchable maps to the LPG switch. I am doing this with a 2Timer on my Motronic 1.3 (E30 323i on Vialle LPG). I run leaner and more ignition advance while running on LPG. I gained 10% fuel consumption with this :).

Despite the distance it might be good to meet up sometime, can you program the vialle system?
We could start by e-mailing, this to not spoil the original thread.
I have reprogrammed some lines in the EPROM that made the injector signal larger/shorter (make fuel trims close to 0/1). Haven't checked more the last time.
 
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