No. That is all done as part of the pre-drive check by the DME when the car is started (and upon shutdown, more stuff is checked). Install and go.

In fact, when they fail, often they fail this automated initialization, zero adjust and check procedure. This is the pre-drive check.

 

Thanks for the great answer. My bank 1 fails once in a while during start up but only does it when car is still hot about 30min-3 after driving, so i though maybe calibrations is off or something. I have to shut the car off and wait and try again and again. Same if i replace it with the spare i have still shows bank1, I'm a swap 1 and 2 around and see if it follows

 

Can you pull the BMW hex AND Pxxx codes before you do anything? I need both codes to tell you what it is exactly upset about. Perhaps we can fix it. Don't swap them yet. First read the codes and post.

By the way, the waiting is needed because the DME does not stop CAN communication with the TA for a while after ACC off and does not instantly remove power (by throwing the relay near the DME). It probably has the enable line set as a result of the SK (safety manager) neutralizing their operation. Once power is removed you get a clear shot for another try.

 

Well i have a quick update after swapping bank 1 and 2 around... problem followed to the bank 2 now I'm getting p161f code. Looks like I'm a be looking for a new or used actuator. I still don't know why it happens only on warm starts and never on cold. You think its the board acting up when transistors are hot?

 

Unfortunately i cleared the codes but i remember it was p1628 and said something spring test failed or did not returned and safety programm activated. I have new gears in them also have one spare actuator and i swapped bank1 twice and it still coming up as bank1 so i start thinking maybe it could be position sensor. Strange thing that it never happens when car is completely cold. Also i noticed that new gears got loose on the shaft. By that i mean they not tight on the shaft anymore and have about 1mm of play each way when you turn it. I glued them before and they got loose again so now im putting some jb weld on them. But that starting problem i had even before i replaced the gears with no change always bank1 and never bank2

 

What gears did you buy? Note to self...

 

Odometergears. Now that im thinking a lot of people might have issues later on. I have about 4k miles on my gears and i just opened it to see how they wear out since i already had intake boxes out.

 

2B21 - P1628: Spring Test Failure

That one is unique! Lucky you.

2B21 - P1628: Throttle-valve actuator pre-drive check, bank 1,
Throttle Valve Actuator Spring Test Malfunction during Opening (Bank 1)
Reasons: Enable wire permanently disabled, enabled or did not de-assert (e.g. disable) fast enough. Throttle plates do not move. DME Safety manager (SK) will be active.

My interpretation: During the pre-drive check, the TA pushes the valves open briefly, lets go and allows the valves to return to zero. It waits for the position sensor to fall with a 2% error budget relative to the known "closed/zero" position, which it had determined ahead of time. If you say your gears are loose (have play), the return to zero position is not guaranteed to be within that 2% error budget. The TA assumes the error state and won't do anything until the next power cycle & successful reinitialization.

Watch this live: Here the actuator goes through and initialization (first short pull) followed by a 30% target setting (second larger pull).

https://vimeo.com/158846174

The forces at play here are very large. I fear for my fingers! The wooden contraption is actually contorting a bit. And it is pretty beefy.

There should be absolutely no play. I had anticiapted this kind of stuff a while back with the way these odometergears were installed. In fact that is why I went for 2 new actuators myself; I did not trust it. Perhaps something was done incorrectly. But if this play occurs, all bets are off.

 

That one is unique! Lucky you.

2B21 - P1628: Throttle-valve actuator pre-drive check, bank 1,
Throttle Valve Actuator Spring Test Malfunction during Opening (Bank 1)
Reasons: Enable wire permanently disabled, enabled or did not de-assert (e.g. disable) fast enough. Throttle plates do not move. DME Safety manager (SK) will be active.

My interpretation: During the pre-drive check, the TA pushes the valves open briefly, lets go and allows the valves to return to zero. It waits for the position sensor to fall with a 2% error budget relative to the known "closed/zero" position, which it had determined ahead of time. If you say your gears are loose (have play), the return to zero position is not guaranteed to be within that 2% error budget. The TA assumes the error state and won't do anything until the next power cycle & successful reinitialization.

Watch this live: Here the actuator goes through and initialization (first short pull) followed by a 30% target setting (second larger pull).

https://vimeo.com/158846174

The forces at play here are very large. I fear for my fingers! The wooden contraption is actually contorting a bit. And it is pretty beefy.

There should be absolutely no play. I had anticiapted this kind of stuff a while back with the way these odometergears were installed. In fact that is why I went for 2 new actuators myself; I did not trust it. Perhaps something was done incorrectly. But if this play occurs, all bets are off.

i just glued both shafts and gears of actuators with jb weld inside and over the top, i also drilled some more holes on the side of the gear and on top of the shaft for the epoxy to go in and harden. If this don't hold then i think i have bad news for a lot of people who rebuilt their actuators. Since i daily drive my car in heavy traffic almost every day i putt these harsh 4k miles on these gears really quick and problem showed its ugly face. Im so sick of taking these intakes out... this is my 5th time already if this happens again I'm a buy new actuators and hope it solves the problem.

 

Take some pictures of the glue job if you still can.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Sorry i already putt everything back together.

 

2B22 - P161F: Throttle-valve actuator pre-drive check, bank 2

Yup. That is the bank 2 version of of the P1628 fault you reported before:

2B22 - P161F: Throttle-valve actuator pre-drive check, bank 2,
Throttle Valve Actuator Spring Test Malfunction during Opening (Bank 2)
Enable wire permanently disabled, enabled or not expedite Disable. Plates do not move.

If you replace your TA, may I ask to get your broken one? I can reimburse you for shipping it. Just send me a PM. I am working on understanding the TA better (per my video) and see if I can find a way to fix and test them in the future. In the name of science :nerd

 

If replacing gears, which gears are the best? Also how do I know if the mosefets and circuit board are bad? they do look OK. Where do I find cheap new actuators or low mileage? Also when replacing them with new one do they need to be calibrated? Seems like there are very knowledged people in this thread, hoping for the best. Regards =)

 

I bought my gears from Alpina527i. You can also get some from Odometergears.com;

There are places in Europe that sell them as well and even install them in an actuator that you send them. I guess google could tell you who they are.

 

Just buy the new ones from spareto.com, $480 shipped.

 

Wow Just bought one (VDO throttle actuator searched for by BMW part number). US$513 shipped DHL express. I'm supposed to get it here in Canada in 2 days.

Higher price is probably due to the fact that the USD weakened against the EURO.

 

Too bad they don't have VANOS solenoids or the motor for the SMG hydraulic pump.

 

Here it is: https://spareto.com/products/a2c59506263-control-change-over-cover-induction-pipe
description is wierd. You guys that brought these are they still working? regards

 

I've only had mine in the car for about 200km or so. Both are working fine.

 

I think I will also just buy new ones and get it over with. It looks like There was a DIY on this thread somewhere saying that you should initialize new throttle actuators in DIS or in INPA. Anyone have an idea how this is done?

 

Read post #2.

 

On the e60 M5 I was told by a tech at the stealer they did not.