Noise sounds like chain slap.

No comment on the oil lol

 

U could try a new tensioner not that expensive. But that sounds scary man get it looked at ASAP tow it

 

I took some serious mocking for this before but here I go again... that knocking is happening pretty slowly. About 5 times a second, maybe? So 300 rpm which is cam speed. It could be a REALLY noisy lifter but it sounds like a VANOS piston knocking hard against one of the stops to me (like the infamous cold start noise) which indicates a problem with the VANOS.
OP, can you check for trouble codes?
And can you get a mechanic's stethoscope (most parts stores) and listen around the engine with the metal probe to pinpoint the source of the noise?
And can you hang the camera from the hood and get a better sound clip while you quickly raise the rpm to say 3000 and back down?

 

Thank You everyone for your replies. I took my car down to the shop and long story short. The mechanic said it was the tensioner. Which now is on order. So It will be getting fixed asap.

 

It's not the tensioner. You can believe it now or come back later after you pay the mechanic.

 

Changing a tensioner on a 2000 is a good thing anyway but..... don't think that is the noise. Is the check engine light on?

 

BTW. What is the best oil to use on our beast?

Ok Im disappointed i was really hoping for an oil thread...Im in withdrawls its been too long since the last one :M5launch:

 

I agree with Optimus, it's been a full day since V-day so I'll start.

I hate you TWS 10-60, you never listen to my needs, like lower prices and better availability, so I started dating Mobil 1 0-40!

 

I had 2 shops say that's what it is. Maybe there wrong.

They said it was the upper left side

What do you guys think it is?

 

What do you guys think it is?

One of the first and most important rules to remember about asking for help on the board is the Check engine light status. If it is off say so then tell us you checked for codes and there were none or report the hidden codes. If the light is on say so then tell us what codes were present.

 

Ok, I'll bite. Just to get it over with and that is the end of discussion. Use what it says on your car. In your case...MY2000 use 10w-60.

Either Castrol TWS 10W-60 from the dealer or Liqui Molly 10W-60.

 

Chain tensioner is quick and cheap to replace,so not so bad.

But more than likely not the issue.

I would take the valve cover off and check 2 things:

-chain guides

-chain tensioner between cams


Also sneak around the vanos gears and see if bolts backed out or the Vanos oil pump has a stuck piston..

 

Thanks VantaaM5. I will have them do that

 

I should also point out that I had a oil change yesterday and ended up putting castal 5-40 synthetic in.
That got the noise to be a lot better.

I just bought the car a week ago. Maybe who ever put the oil in last didn't use the right kind.

BTW it only does that when I first turn it on. After when driving it is better0 :-\.

But there is still a noise after just not as bad.

Oil alone was $100 dollars,
It is worth ordering the 60 weight oil to keep on hand?

 

I should also point out that I had a oil change yesterday and ended up putting castal 5-40 synthetic in.
That got the noise to be a lot better.

I just bought the car a week ago. Maybe who ever put the oil in last didn't use the right kind.

But there is still a noise after just not as bad.

Oil alone was $100 dollars,
It is worth ordering the 60 weight oil to keep on hand?

There are plenty of threads on here about oil debates, and people tend to hate arguing about it (but secretly love it). Everyone who uses a different oil thinks they are right. What it comes down to, though, is that BMW recommends 10W-60 for all M cars and it is crazy to think that they didn't put a lot of engineering thought into that. Especially living in CA, you would be good using 10W-60 all year round.

I recommend switching and I recommend Liqui-Molly 10W-60 as a lot of people use it, with no problems, and it is FAR cheaper.

 

If there are no engine codes then it might be a tensioner, but not the one your mechanics are thinking of. You will not be wasting money most M5s should have the tensioner changed it saves the guides to some point. If the noise goes away or reduces significantly I would be willing to bet there will already be damage to the plastic guides and would suggest dropping the lower pan to look for bits of plastic that used to be the guides.
My feeling is that the knock will change but still be there and I suggest that the noise might be coming from the tensioner on the top of the motor between the two cams if it significantly remains. Both of these tensioners are driven by oil pressure so it is not surprising the noise changed when you changed to a different grade oil.

 

Sailor, for the chain tensioners, is that a chain off procedure? How do you explain the rhythm of the noise (4 to 5 times/sec)?

 

It is a chain off procedure.

The rhythm can just be random hitting.

Same when you have a broken chain guide.

When my plastic guide of the tensioner between the cams went,it was a noise in similar fashion.
And only randomly there every now and then.


Bottom line is,it is valve train related,so valve cover off and see what is in there.

 

Is it safe for me to drive my car right now or should I leave it parked?

I have a feeling that I shouldn't drive it.

 

Normally. I wouldn't drive it. However the mechanic said I should be fine to drive it until the part comes in.

 

If the mechanic turns out to be wrong, who pays for your new motor? You? Mechanic?

If the mechanic pays, then for sure I'd drive it.

 

I read your post while I was on my phone and I just cant figure out how to type on it dam touch screens I want my Blackberry back. Is your mechanic a S62 expert? If yes drive it. The sound clips are always more dramatic than reality. Honestly until you drop the lower pan and look for plastic I would not. These cars are sold to unsuspecting people all of the time because they have been diagnosed with significant problems. My gut feeling is that is what you have been sold. That said most of these problems can easily be resolved but you have major noise and no check engine light. Not good usually means a mechanical problem. Be safe and figure out what you have been sold because the S62 can easily become a boat anchor and because they are aluminum they make crappy boat anchors.

 

the S62 can easily become a boat anchor and because they are aluminum they make crappy boat anchors.

HA

 

Do not drive it..


@Sailor: rather valve cover off than dropping oil.

Makes more sense.

 

So I took my car into the dealer today and they were nice and gave me a loner so that way I don't have to drive the car until it gets fixed. They have been really nice about this.

I will let everyone know the updates so that way if it happens to someone else they will know.

Thank you everyone for your help!

 

One last little warning dealers have a tendency to have away more expensive way yo fix things. Before you sign on the line for a repair post what they are saying to you. Example would be the Vanos maintenance which has about a 95% success rate here and costs about 100-200. The dealer will only replace the whole vanos unit costing many thousands.

 

So just an update.
My car is in the shop in parts right now. Timing chain looks great. However the tensioner where loose. 2 of them are so far getting replaced. Also found a leak in the radiator so that is getting replaced. Everything else looks good including the vanos.

Anything else I should look at while its under?

 

I don't know what else needs to be removed, or how far apart your car is, but if they are deep enough to replace the tensioner pistons would it be a lot more labor to replace the plastic chain guides? If not I think it would be worth it.

 

Which would indictate the soft one on the side with the noise is the actual failed one. He is likely replacing the wrong side. It was bank one that had the noise.

 

Update. Car is finished and sounds amazing. No more bad noise. Just waiting for the ABS Module to come back in before I drive it home. Its getting fixed.

 

Here is a video of the car now.

This is right after he just washed the engine.

After - YouTube

BTW The clonk sound wasn't the car.

 

Sounds good. What did the shop end up doing?