Complete Fuel Pump DIY with pics! - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
Most Memorable Threads' Here we gathered some of the most enjoyable or informative posts since March 2000. You cannot post here, only read and vote.

LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member (>500)
doc$holliday's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Age: 42
Posts: 510
Thanks: 116
Thanked 150 Times in 42 Posts
Complete Fuel Pump DIY with pics!

I just replaced my fuel pump over the weekend and wanted to give a little something back to the board by putting together one thread that should capture everything necessary for this DIY project. Searching the forum led to some other very helpful threads and useful info but it was somewhat scattered so I thought putting it all in one place would be better. Also, it seems like dying fuel pumps may be becoming more common as some of our Beasts rack up the miles. FWIW, my pump made it 122k...not too shabby.

For those interested on background info, here is the recent thread I posted regarding my stuttering/stalling issues.

Originally I thought oil separator hoses were contributing to the problem but in the end it was most certainly the fuel pump. This was reinforced this weekend as I was returning home from an errand and keeping an eye on the liters of fuel remaining in the tank, via the OBC, when the stuttering happened again and the Beast died just before the highway offramp near my house. OBC reported about 6 liters still left in the tank (I was trying to get it very low for the fuel pump swap) and down she went. Let it sit for a half hour, got it started and made it home to the garage. After swapping the fuel pump and turning it over 3 times (takes a little bit to regain fuel pressure in the system to start up), the Beast fired up fine and I drove straight to the gas station.

Before the DIY pics, please allow me to reference the other threads that helped out:

Not really a DIY but more of a request to see if one was out there. Some info on the main fuel pump versus the siphon pump.

Some relay testing info from Everycredit and notes from 100%Cocoa on fuel pump voltages and when it is "active":

Easy E's thread on fuel pump relay troubleshooting:

Some good info on the secret menu test for siphon pump. Also, Nerio02 provided the majority of the instructions I used for the swap:

Finally, a Pelican Parts article that is based on E36 pump replacement but is very relevant and has pics:
Pelican Technical Article: BMW 3-Series E36 Fuel Pump Replacement

Check out those links and make sure you take all the precautions listed in the Pelican Parts article, etc. Have gloves, lots of rags/towels and a fire extinguisher handy. Get your fuel level as low as you can, this is definitely less stressful when you are not dipping your entire hand into a full tank of gasoline. Definitely not a very hard DIY, with proper preparation and taking your time anybody can do this. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being "you go to the dealership because your windshield washer fluid is low" and 10 being "you are Raza and you swap S62 motors in a weekend...while wearing flip-flops", this is about a 4.

Fuel pump is part#16146752369. Mine came with a new rubber seal, #16141182905, as well as a hose clamp and zip ties.

First, remove the rear seat cushion. It just pops up and pulls out. Lay some towels around and cover your passenger seatback and rear seat back with them. Better safe than sorry.
From Drop Box

Pull out the large seal around the wiring and peel up the sound deadening material, use a razor knife if necessary.
From Drop Box

Unscrew the three (3) Philips screws and pull up the black cover. You can squeeze the large seal through the cover opening and fold it all over on the side so you aren't actually removing any of these things from the vehicle.
From Drop Box

Next, remove the electrical connector by putting thumb and forefinger on the sides and sliding it towards you.
From Drop Box

This is the "fun with gasoline" part. Before you remove the fuel line connector, make sure your free hand has a ton of towels/shop rags/whatever in it. You're going to be releasing the built-up fuel pressure once you pull this connector and this is really the only part of the whole DIY where gas is going to spray out. You will be pinching the two tabs on the connector sides and pulling up with one hand, while moving in at the same time to smother the connector with the rags to catch the gasoline spray. Make SURE you pull straight up with the connector and keep it right over the yellow lid at all times, so any fuel that drips will stay contained. My pic shows that I got a little spray over to the left side and if you get that gray seal ring wet, it will want to warp up a little so you are better off keeping the hose over the yellow part. No need to pull up fast on the connector but the pressure will start the spray as soon as you begin lifting it off. Once fuel flow has subsided, it's time to take off the metal ring. Use a flat-blade screwdriver and a rubber mallet to tap on those metal ridges. Spin the ring counter-clockwise and remove.
From Drop Box

Now the metal ring is off, it's a good time to clean up a little in there so that you won't be dropping any of this dirt and such into the gas tank. The yellow plastic part is the top of the float. It pulls straight up and out now, get it started by using a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry in between the edge of the yellow plastic and the outer white ring. Once it starts coming up, carefully pull the float up and out. It is going to be attached to the fuel pump and it is easiest to keep it that way and pull the pump out with it. There are two black plastic tabs on either side of the pump, it is easy to push them in and the pump slides free. Pull them up and out together, make sure there are rags all around the opening to catch any fuel dripping off. I wrapped shop towels around them and removed them from the car.
From Drop Box

Here is the full assembly as pulled directly out of the car:
From Drop Box

You can cover up the open gas tank by laying a towel over the opening just to ensure that nothing falls in while you are detaching the float from the old pump. Here is a shot of the old and new pumps, note the clean white filter mesh at the bottom of the new and the nasty black mesh on the old! Also, you can see there are two electrical connections from the float to the pump, they have yellow housings on them. This picture shows them pulled off the spade terminals of the pump. Black wire is negative, Yellow is positive. There are "+" and "-" signs on the top of the pump.
From Drop Box

Time to clip off the wire ties holding the float wiring to the pump hose. Once that is done, the hose clamp holding the hose onto the float must be removed. This pic shows some cutters but that did not work out well for removing the clamp, it was much easier to put a small flat-blade screwdriver in the horseshoe part and pry open a bit until it loosened up. It's okay to damage the hose in getting it off the float, as your new pump should have one already attached, but be careful not to damage your float plastic!
From Drop Box

Now that the float is separate from the old pump, you are ready to reassemble. Take the new pump and lock it down into the gas tank, it only "clicks" in one way so with a little playing around you'll find it. Here is a shot inside the gas tank, with new pump locked in:
From Drop Box

Before going further, make sure you put the new large rubber seal in the tank opening. It only goes one way and seems big at first but fits snugly once you get it in there. It is easier to put it on the tank hole now than to put it on the float itself. The float is now going to be reattached to the pump. First, slide the hose clamp onto the new hose and then attach the new hose onto the float, as shown in this picture. It takes some effort as it is a tight fit. Then lock in the hose clamp once it's in position (put it back where the original one was). I ended up using the cutters from the other picture to pinch this hose clamp in as the metal is very strong and it didn't cut it at all.
From Drop Box

Here, the hose clamp is done and the wires are being routed along the hose and held in place with zip ties. The electrical connectors are now attached to the pump again.
From Drop Box

You're almost done. This is the last tricky part, getting the float put back into the tank properly. I don't have an action shot but basically you are lowering the long arm parts of the float into the tank where there seems to be room for them, which for me was closest to the passenger door. The float will go down there about 80% of the way and then it seems to get stopped up. Be gentle at this part and work slowly - you don't want to break the float when you are so close! The float sort of needs to be pushed down at the same time as you are rotating it clockwise, carefully of course! There is a tab on one side only of the yellow plastic float top, this tab sits on the section of the white tank ring closest to the rear seat of the car. Once the float spins down and starts to get seated, just push down all around the yellow ring to firmly seat the float top into that rubber seal of the tank. This pic shows the float properly seated.
From Drop Box

Take the metal ring and reinstall it with the screwdriver and hammer in clockwise fashion until it is good and snug. Once it is in, all you need to do is plug the fuel supply line back in, followed by the electrical connector. Reinstall the black plastic cover with the 3 screws, push the rubber seal with wires back through the sound deadening, lay that back down and push the seal back into place. I started the Beast and checked to make sure there were no issues back there before taking away the towels and reinstalling the rear seat bottom.

Nothing left but to wash up and take the Beast for a spin!!

Hope this DIY helps out, feel free to ask any other Q's about the process.

Sean Paul

Sean Paul
2003 M5 LeMans Blue with sport blue/black interior
Evolve SW, Alpha-N (MAF-delete) w/ IATS relocation, Dinan Stage 1 suspension, Rogue trans mounts, short shift, E46 ZHP shift knob, Magnaflows, Stoptech Slotted Rotors, Stainless front brake lines, ceramic pads, Beastpower titanium pedals, white LED interior lights.

doc$holliday is offline  
The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to doc$holliday For This Useful Post:
5PEEDY (15th December 2009), ard (20th October 2013), Ranton (4th March 2014), steveM5 (21st June 2010), Tortuga (20th April 2010)
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 09:26 PM
M5 Expert (>4000)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New York
Age: 53
Posts: 8,707
Thanks: 4,472
Thanked 2,607 Times in 1,548 Posts
One of the best DIY threads ever! Should be a sticky, Gustav!

I will be doing this over the holidays and was just going to wing it based on prior threads and figuring it out as I go, but this gives perfect guidance! Thanks very much.

herrubermensch is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 09:42 PM
M5 Expert (>4000)
Hdhntr23's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cincinnati OH
Age: 48
Posts: 4,668
Thanks: 1,386
Thanked 595 Times in 506 Posts
Wow great write up. Thanks!

Current Interior Mods:
MKIV, Sirius Retrofit, BlueTooth Retro-Fit, E60 SSK, ACS Aluminum Pedals, 30% Window Tint, TEC CupHolder, 2X's Ultimate Cup Holders, Full LED upgrade (Thanks Timmay77), "M" Stitched Alcantara Shiftboot and E-Brake boot, CF Steering wheel trim (Thanks CGRM5), Euro-Dash (Thanks Raz and Timmay77), Hella TC-400 TPMS, Scosche BlueTooth 2.0 A2DP Adapter (Thanks btmlinedan) Euro "Safety kit" Fire Extinguisher and First Aid box (Thanks Slimmbones)

Current Exterior Mods:

"Always-On" DRL Predator ICE LED 6000K AE's (Thanks Timmay77 and NavCoder), C-Fiber Kidney Grills (Thanks Havasusteve03Beast), ACS C-Fiber Roof Spoiler, ACS Flipper style C-Fiber Front Splitters, C-Fiber OEM Trunk Spoiler, C-Fiber Eye-Lids (Thanks CGRM5), Custom "vented" C-Fiber Rear Diffuser (Thanks Timmay77, ATLANTAM5 and Diny), Euro Headlights, (Thanks CGRM5), C-Fiber 6 piece window sills, 7 Piece C-Fiber Blue/Grey Roundels, Stainless vented custom Fog-Light frames, Hamann style sideskirts w/ CFiber Inserts, Projector Fogs

Current Performance Mods:
Dinan Exhaust cans (Thanks Timmay77 and btmlinedan), Brake duct mod with "Black Chrome" custom rings (Thanks Timmay77 and Diny), Dinan RSB with BeastPower brackets (Thanks Firehire, MFreakin5 and btmlinedan), Stoptech slotted rotors with StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads (Thanks Zeckhausen Racing Timmay77 and Lunker325)
Hdhntr23 is offline  
post #4 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 09:43 PM
M5 Expert (>4000)
wilsodh's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 6,958
Thanks: 931
Thanked 871 Times in 468 Posts
Originally Posted by doc$holliday View Post
IOn a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being "you go to the dealership because your windshield washer fluid is low" and 10 being "you are Raza and you swap S62 motors in a weekend...while wearing flip-flops", this is about a 4.l

Great thread. This will definitely come in handy...


'00 Royal Red/black/walnut M5
100% options, angel eye upgrade

'El Diablo'
’00 Black/black DA s/c M5
Carrillo rods, Arias pistons,
Schrick cams, Vortech T-trim,
Supersprint headers/exhaust,
UUC, Koala driveshaft/differential,
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, Brembo
~Built by Shadowman & Black M5~
wilsodh is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 09:47 PM
M5 Expert (>4000)
timmay77's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Age: 42
Posts: 6,939
Thanks: 1,867
Thanked 2,123 Times in 1,131 Posts
(in my best Bugs Bunny voice) Ehhhh, what's up doc??

Sorry, been DYING to say that to you......

EPIC thread here. Definitely one of the best DIY's written on the board thus far.

The New Whip:
2003 Sterling Gray/Executive Caramel ///M5 (Name TBD)
~Coming soon! 5.3 LS Twin Turbo Swap. Just another LS swap, but with 2 snails.

The Storm Trooper:
2014 328i xDrive Msport Alpine White/Black Dakota (fully loaded)

~Bootmod3 stage 2~ER Downpipe~ER Charge pipe~BMS Intercooler~351M wheels

Tim ~ email: HallmanTL (at) gmail (dot) com
timmay77 is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 10:20 PM
Member, P500, DSC On (>600)
Essixtytwo's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 681
Thanks: 179
Thanked 105 Times in 83 Posts
Fantastic DIY, very detailed and easy to follow. Well done!

1999 E39 M5 Carbon Black/Caramel Full/Alcantara
Essixtytwo is online now  
post #7 of 8 Old 24th November 2009, 10:30 PM
Member, P500 Sport, DSC On (>700)
rdm190's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 706
Thanks: 0
Thanked 72 Times in 22 Posts

Pull your fuel pump relay, start the car and let it die on its own, then try to start it again and maybe one more time for good measure.

This should relieve any left over pressure in the fuel system.


2001 M5 Carbon Black/Black Extended
Hella Euro Headlamps/Umnitza LED Angel Eyes/UF IATS/MVIV NAV Computer/20% Tint all around
2008 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 4x4. Takes the bad weather beating for the beast.
1995 Ford Mustang Cobra
2006 SeaDoo RXP
rdm190 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to rdm190 For This Useful Post:
ratso70 (1st December 2010)
post #8 of 8 Old 25th November 2009, 01:26 AM
M5 Expert (>4000)
Gustav's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Kingdom of Sweden
Age: 43
Posts: 49,477
Blog Entries: 7
Thanks: 5,951
Thanked 3,792 Times in 2,291 Posts
Gustav is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Gustav For This Useful Post:
Raptor6702 (8th July 2014)


Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Complete Fuel Pump DIY with pics! doc$holliday E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 85 21st December 2017 04:49 PM
Quick Fuel Pump / Fuel Supply Question Zen M E34 M5 Discussion 13 19th June 2012 07:25 AM
DIY Fuel Pump installation. arotished E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 27 13th August 2011 06:19 PM
Fuel Pump Autopsy- Pics Flybot E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 22 12th May 2011 06:53 PM
urgent help needed! fuel pump relay or pump itself?? jonnycowboy E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 14 1st October 2009 03:58 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome