Just bought my dream car, 2006 E60 M5. Drove it home and gave her a nice wash and wax. Took my dad for a spin in the car. I put it on M mode and let her rip. Didn't notice that it went to manual on M mode and I redlined the car, but I caught it quick and changed gears. everything was great after that. Parked the car let it cool down and shut her off. When I got back into the car and turned her on the dreaded limp mode and increase emissions came on. We decided to bring down the pan and we found a lot of copper in the oil. Also saw that I spun 2 bearings and one of the bearings broke into pcs. Luckily the car gods were with me cause the crank has no damage, no scratches. I believe I have the updated vanos gears as well. Going to put new ACL bearing and bolts from Lang Racing as well as the High pressure Vanos lines and chain guide with oil squirters. Also going to throw in 2 new motor mounts as one seems to have a lot of play. Im doing all the work my self. Only concern I have is doing the back lash on the gears. I know I need to clean out the oil pump and the vanos solenoid as well. Only drove the car for 15 miles and i'm addicted to the car lol. I wished I could have enjoyed it a bit more but it is what it is. Keep you all posted how this turns out.
If the bearings truly spun there's no way your crank is fine. It will be smooth as it's been ground by the con rod. But both crank and con rod need to be pulled. Post pics of the failed bearings, crank journals and con rod cap.
If the bearings truly spun there's no way your crank is fine. It will be smooth as it's been ground by the con rod. But both crank and con rod need to be pulled. Post pics of the failed, bearings, crank journals and con rod cap.
We pulled it out and inspected it and looked fine, no marks, lines or scorn. We put it back on cause we are going to order the bearings. There was no silver metal in the pan or filter just saw copper. I will take pictures tomorrow and post it. Conrod cap looked good. Maybe i didn't spin the bearing and it just got worn? I know the groove was shaved down on the 2 bearings that we pulled out.
I really wouldn't gamble with just throwing new bearings in with two that completely spun. Good news is you might as well build a stroker, or will at least have the excuse to do so.
Bought it locally here in Miami. The car just had a bunch of work from a shop here called Autowerke and the specialize in BMW M Series. Ive called and text the seller but he's nowhere to be found now that I told him the news "typical". I really like the car and I knew i was taking a gamble on it with all the problems it has, but I was going to do all the preventive work regardless this week. I know everyone is saying crank damage but it's crazy that the crank looks really good. It looks good just like the other bearings that didn't spin. Will post some pictures tomorrow of the crank.
Again not clear what you mean by chipped off. Doesn't matter I guess you have your mind set on just replacing bearings. Pics for others to see would be nice.
I'll take pictures and put it up. What im trying to say is that the bearing was broken, a pcs broke completely off and didn't come out of the rod cap and into the engine.
Active Autowerkes is a great M shop.
They did my bearings about 18 months ago and have been my "go to" Indy when I can't or don't want to sort things out on my own.
How much do you have invested in the car? A stroker is a really interesting thought.
Yeah I heard they are great. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago and the it broke the same day. Im doing the work my self first. So far I just ordered the parts so Im at $600
I'm also located in Miami and Active Autowerke quoted me $5800 for the rod bearing job. That is majorly overpriced! Do you guys have a different opinion on Active Autowerke?
I also went to MPI "Miami Performance Inc" I heard they were great. I went to talk to the owner and he talked so bad about the M5 and how much he hates. Not a good way to win a customer, so I said thank you and just left. Active autowerke are much nicer and helpful so I rather take it to them. Ask fo Andy
10k+ for stroker parts - rods, pistons, and crank.
Biggest cost would be shop labor and if any other work would need to be done to your block, and then the cost increasing with scope creep because you might as well do x y and z while the engine is out and apart.
Barring you need to refinish your block, and not a crazy overbore, I'd budget low 20's for bare bones to mid 30's depending on how far you want to go and having someone else do all the work.
If you already have to pay for the labor to yank out a shot engine, it can make more sense money wise to go for the stroker. For the money supercharging is more cost effective to make power. Still working on trying to convince the wife of that.
If it truly spun rod bearings, there’s no way it didn’t do damage to the crank and rod. It may look ok to the untrained eye, but definitely get someone more experienced involved. You’re throwing away money putting new bearings in. We did that once for an E60 M5 Customer so he could immediately trade it in, the engine didn’t even make it 10 miles. It ended up being a huge mistake doing what he asked.
I like the car alot, but if a stroker engine is gonna run me into the 30k then I rather just buy another car, I see the F10 going down in price. Here are some pictures of the crank. and the bearing that I believe spun
While the crank journal doesn't 'look' bad, the proper way is to remove and measure everything. 99% sure that the con rod is toast. Either way rebuilding without measuring is a waste of time and money. Plastigauge is useless in this case btw.
Andy is "my guy" too but I sugget you discuss your quote directly with Mike, the owner.
Mike is aweome and quite chatty so be sure to have some time when you call.
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