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post #1 of 3 Old 26th June 2019, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Misfire Codes, But No Loss of Power or Idling Issues?

Hi there everybody, I am new to the forum as I just bought my first M5. It is a 2007 with a six speed and I have loved it ... except for the fact that within two weeks the storied maintenance costs are already starting to pile up. Once it is restored to its former glory, I'm sure I will fall for it like so many members on here have.

Anyways, I bought the car with a number of issues (That I will slowly address as the budget allows), but the drivetrain has only 75,000 miles and seemed to be in perfect condition. I bought the car two weeks ago and I've already put 1800 miles on her so she won't be low milage for long. The first two issues that need addressing are the brakes and the idiot light that just went on.

The Codes are:

Autozone says that these are all misfire codes. Because the computer just said "Increased Emissions I assumed it was just an O2 sensor or something and I got on it a few times on the way back from Bloomington, IN to Chicago, IL. The car has no loss of power at all and it revs smoothly to redline. It does not idle rough at all and after it is warmed up there is no fluctuation in the idle whatsoever. I have run the fuel tank pretty near empty a few times because the thing will only take 15.8 gallons and I do a lot of long distance driving. Could that be related to the codes? All of the spark plugs are new and it has new ignition coils on cylinders 5 and 10 according to the previous owner. His mechanic said that the others were in fine shape. I've read that it may also be caused by an "Ionic sensor." I have no idea what that is (I have only worked on a 4G63T Mitsubishi Engine which debuted in the late 1980s). The idiot light stays on persistently, do you guys have any theories as to why the car would produce a misfire code, but not be down on power?

As to the brakes, the brake light is always on yellow and the ABS light is sometimes on and sometimes off. The pedal feels very mushy and light to me. If I get on the brakes it still stops in a hurry and the pads have plenty of life left in them. I'm not sure if this is related, but the traction control and the EDC do not work either.

Thank you for your input,

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post #2 of 3 Old 26th June 2019, 06:29 AM
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Welcome. You will quickly learn that you must have a bmw specific tool to read codes. AutoZone or generic obd tools are typically useless. Can't help with the codes you posted.

As for the abs the likely culprits are either the abs pump brushes going out or the steering wheel sensor. Again without a bmw reader can't help any further.

As for what reader to use carly or bimmergeeks protool are user friendly, but I have no experience with them. If you're computer inclined the best solution is a cheap bimmergeeks pro cable and torrent ista/inpa. Ista or rheingold is the official bmw software dealers use.

Also if you need the service manual google newtis, it's free.
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post #3 of 3 Old 26th June 2019, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Flacoramos, I will look into those tools tomorrow to see if I can get a more accurate idea of whats going on. The newtis will be very helpful. I found it elsewhere at a site called workshop-manuals.com, but there was an horrible advertisment every time I turned the page. I'm glad there is a more user friendly version out there.
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