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post #1 of 4 Old 20th June 2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
Kruser65
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Key issues E60 M5

Good morning, I've searched here and haven't been able to find anything related to what I'm experiencing. I have a 2007 M5 that this morning decided to not release my key fob. Acted as though it was without power. Finally wiggled the fob out of the ignition and now it won't take it back. After sitting in it for about 5 minutes searching threads the car reacted as though I had just removed the key with all the appropriate chimes, releasing the bolsters etc. But still won't accept the key fob. I can however now start the car and everything appears to function as normal. Thank you for any help you can provide!!
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post #2 of 4 Old 21st June 2019, 12:02 AM
Freude_am_Fahren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruser65 View Post
Good morning, I've searched here and haven't been able to find anything related to what I'm experiencing. I have a 2007 M5 that this morning decided to not release my key fob. Acted as though it was without power. Finally wiggled the fob out of the ignition and now it won't take it back. After sitting in it for about 5 minutes searching threads the car reacted as though I had just removed the key with all the appropriate chimes, releasing the bolsters etc. But still won't accept the key fob. I can however now start the car and everything appears to function as normal. Thank you for any help you can provide!!
There seems to be a contradiction in your description: 'But still won't accept the key fob' and 'I can however now start the car' ... Maybe you could add some more details on this specific part.

From what I do understand, it sounds partly like a mechanical problem of the ignition lock: Try to poor a few drips of thin oil in the lock to lubricate the lock-pins. Alternatively you may put some oil on the key fob and stick it in the ignition lock. Either way, some oil will reach the lock-pins which helps them to move with less resistance.


It could however also be an electronic 'problem' as a result of leaving the key in the ignition lock for a longer period of time, without doing anything. It has to do with being in 'sleeping mode' or the opposite of the General module. At least that's how it works for the E39. Not sure how much the E60 system differs from the E39 system. What works on both systems is: Remove the key from the ignition lock and reset the DME (motor management unit) by disconnecting the battery mass-cable (= minus cable) for a couple of minutes. Some here say 30 minutes, but I don't think it takes that long to reset the DME. Anyway, after a period you want to apply, reconnect the battery cable and see if the car's behavior is back to normal or not. If not, then we'll have to open our 'instruction book' on the next chapter ...

Last edited by Freude_am_Fahren; 21st June 2019 at 01:04 AM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 21st June 2019, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
Kruser65
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Hello! Yes, at that time i could push the fob into the ignition and the power would come on but it wouldn't grab the fob. Later on, I pushed it into the ignition slightly harder and it clicked into place. I have since had no issues. Everything functioning as expected. I read another thread where low output from the alternator caused this and several other issues which i experienced on my drive back home. SMG downshifting all the way to first from 6th at 55mph, speedometer dropping to zero and returning to current speed, srs malfunction, dsc malfunction, smg malfunction. I will be checking charge voltage once I get home. I've also been getting passenger side srs malfunction lately. I do believe there is a recall on it, and will be looking into that as well. Another comment on the alternator thread had mentioned that an airbag malfunction was causing excessive current draw causing similar issues.
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post #4 of 4 Old 21st June 2019, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruser65 View Post
Hello! Yes, at that time i could push the fob into the ignition and the power would come on but it wouldn't grab the fob. Later on, I pushed it into the ignition slightly harder and it clicked into place. ....
When you push the key fob into the ignition lock, a set of spring loaded lock-pins has to be pushed aside. Only if you push the key fob complete in, all the lock-pins do line up and you are able to turn the key with normal resistance. I interpret 'the ignition lock wouldn't grab the key fob' as 'I couldn't push the key fob completely in the ignition lock' and therefore 'I am feeling too much resistance during turning of the key'. Is this correct?
If not, is 'wouldn't grab the fob' pointing towards 'sticking the key fob in'-phase or the 'turning the key'-phase?

If the bottom lock-pin is a bit dry or rusty even it may prohibit the key fob from being totally pushed into the ignition lock* and it will resist the turning of the key because it is not line up well enough. Therefore I still think you should oil the key fob, push it in/ pull it out of the ignition lock several times, put fresh oil on the key fob again and repeat this procedure until the resistance of the locking pins is almost gone.
After many years of use of the ignition lock, wear in the holes of the lock-pins can result in the same problems as you are describing now, but I think your car is still to young for wear being the cause. Start oiling first! If you don't have any other oil type at hand ... engine oil will do.

*) You could also have a quick look with a torch + magnifying glass to be sure that nothing has dropped into the ignition lock. This has happened before ... !

Concerning the battery:
The quick solution for a battery drain is pulling fuses and measuring current between disconnected mass cable and minus-pole of the battery, until you found the culprit.

Minimum voltage for a not connected battery is around 12.6 V. If the not connected battery is below 12.4 V, recharge it with a trickle charger (battery tender) up to a level above 13.5 V.
With the battery connected, a healthy alternator will show a voltage of 14 V. On the battery poles a bit more, on the post under the hood a bit less since there's a couple of yards of cable in between.
Don't try to start the car when the connected battery shows a voltage below 12 V or your drive away protection module (EWS or CAS in newer cars) will have problems recognizing your keys. The it won't start anymore for sure. In the worst case the motor management unit (DME) and the drive away protection module (EWS or CAS) have to be synchronized again. That will require a bit more equipment than an oiler ...

Last edited by Freude_am_Fahren; 22nd June 2019 at 12:00 AM.
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