Hello! Yes, at that time i could push the fob into the ignition and the power would come on but it wouldn't grab the fob. Later on, I pushed it into the ignition slightly harder and it clicked into place. ....
When you push the key fob into the ignition lock, a set of spring loaded lock-pins has to be pushed aside. Only if you push the key fob complete in, all the lock-pins do line up and you are able to turn the key with normal resistance. I interpret 'the ignition lock wouldn't grab the key fob' as 'I couldn't push the key fob completely in the ignition lock' and therefore 'I am feeling too much resistance during turning of the key'. Is this correct?
If not, is 'wouldn't grab the fob' pointing towards 'sticking the key fob in'-phase or the 'turning the key'-phase?
If the bottom lock-pin is a bit dry or rusty even it may prohibit the key fob from being totally pushed into the ignition lock* and it will resist the turning of the key because it is not line up well enough. Therefore I still think you should oil the key fob, push it in/ pull it out of the ignition lock several times, put fresh oil on the key fob again and repeat this procedure until the resistance of the locking pins is almost gone.
After many years of use of the ignition lock, wear in the holes of the lock-pins can result in the same problems as you are describing now, but I think your car is still to young for wear being the cause. Start oiling first! If you don't have any other oil type at hand ... engine oil will do.
*) You could also have a quick look with a torch + magnifying glass to be sure that nothing has dropped into the ignition lock. This has happened before ... !
Concerning the battery:
The quick solution for a battery drain is pulling fuses and measuring current between disconnected mass cable and minus-pole of the battery, until you found the culprit.
Minimum voltage for a not connected battery is around 12.6 V. If the not connected battery is below 12.4 V, recharge it with a trickle charger (battery tender) up to a level above 13.5 V.
With the battery connected, a healthy alternator will show a voltage of 14 V. On the battery poles a bit more, on the post under the hood a bit less since there's a couple of yards of cable in between.
Don't try to start the car when the connected battery shows a voltage below 12 V or your drive away protection module (EWS or CAS in newer cars) will have problems recognizing your keys. The it won't start anymore for sure. In the worst case the motor management unit (DME) and the drive away protection module (EWS or CAS) have to be synchronized again. That will require a bit more equipment than an oiler ...