Just want to say I've been following and reading on M5 Board for years now. I have finally made the decision to buy an E60 M5. Im pretty nervous and excited at the same time. Im going to see the beast tomorrow, it's a 2006 Black with white interior. Has all the service records and back in 2014 it was sent to Active Autowerke for the fllowing.
Water Pump
Expansion Tank
All the tension pulley and Idler pulley
New Oil cooler
EDC Control unit
Front caster bushing
New tires all 4
New Clutch kit ( SMG )
Hood Shock
Active Autowerke Exhaust
Alpha N Software With cold delete start
4 Vano solenoid Valve
2 Rear ignition coil
This was all performed with 99,000 miles on the car back in 2014 and now it has 107,000 miles. Im getting it for 11k. Would like to get some feed back from you guys. I will be changing the bearing ASAP.
Just want to say I've been following and reading on M5 Board for years now. I have finally made the decision to buy an E60 M5. Im pretty nervous and excited at the same time. Im going to see the beast tomorrow, it's a 2006 Black with white interior. Has all the service records and back in 2014 it was sent to Active Autowerke for the fllowing.
Water Pump
Expansion Tank
All the tension pulley and Idler pulley
New Oil cooler
EDC Control unit
Front caster bushing
New tires all 4
New Clutch kit ( SMG )
Hood Shock
Active Autowerke Exhaust
Alpha N Software With cold delete start
4 Vano solenoid Valve
2 Rear ignition coil
This was all performed with 99,000 miles on the car back in 2014 and now it has 107,000 miles. Im getting it for 11k. Would like to get some feed back from you guys. I will be changing the bearing ASAP.
Congrats!
As long as you have the records then you should be all good....
Smart on Bearings, and great price!
Bought mine at 14K with AA exhaust and AA Tune, Air scoops and 80+ pages of records.
Spent 5k on bearings, and other maintenance items such as SMG pump fluid change, diff fluid, brake fluid, spark plugs and oil, + new squirters etc...well worth it!
Also got a cat delete on original headers by RMS FABRICATIONS, and a new Fastattack Tune...car is AMAZING!
Congrats on the car man. I just bought one about a month and a half ago. 92k on it. I’ve put about 800 miles on it, so far it’s ran great. I am just waiting on the vanos HP line and I’m taking it in to get bearings done, engine mounts, and the vanos line done. I would suggest doing bearings ASAP like you mentioned. Congrats again man good luck.
That is a certain way to get fuel diluted in oil. There's no reason to let the engine 'warm up'. Don't drive as an idiot when cold is all ANY car needs.
Definitely doing the bearing and vano pressure line. Would you recommend doing anything else while I’m down there? Also what scanner do you use for reading and clearing codes?
Well from the sound of it this one was well maintained. I personally did rod bearings, high pressure vanos line, oil cooler, new pan gasket, nice new fresh oil change and control arms and front bushings.
I think the correct process is drive the car sensibly until the engine gets up to temperature, then get on it. Do not let the car sit idle as a means to warm her up.
I Googled and I think you will get different answers and opinions. I still feel a little easy warming up the engine for at least 2-5 min before driving just to get the oil and engine warmed up especially with all the rod bearing issues. Now my Acura and Honda not so much...just start and drive
BMW says don’t don’t delay drive away. It’s best to drive these cars off the bat. Just keep revs really low until fully warm. Common sense, but a lot of idiots have ruined these cars because they redline when cold.
How many people do you know who redline their M5 when cold? Bet it's less than one. Other than youtube such owners exist only in peoples' imagination to justify BMW wrongdoing.
I let me car idle/sit until the cold start sequence stops. If I drive up my street right off the bat when cold it jerks and bucks going up the hill. Never does this if I wait until cold start is complete. I also have a Sprint booster so the pedal is a little more sensitive to imput.....but still never happens if I wait for cold start to complete an then go.
Whats up guys, Hope everyone is doing great. Well I got my M5 on Friday, it drove and ran amazing and the sound from the AA exhaust is freaking awesome!. I washed the car and cleaned the engine and took it for a spin. I put the car in M mode and did a quick run put didn't notice that it goes to manual when M mode is pressed and I red lined the car but caught it real fast and shifted quickly. I parked it at the house and everything was great. Turned it on to leave and bam! got the reduce power, 4,500 rpm and increase emission warning. Took out the plugs and I saw I had water in cylinder 5 in the spark plug chamber from when I washed it. Cleaned it out and put new plugs on the car. Car has rough idle. So I took it to auto zone and P0012, 15, 22 and 25 came up which was all 4 camshaft sensors bad. I replaced all 4 and still bad. No I hear a knocking noise coming from right bank vanos i presume. Sucks! just drove the car for one day. Vanos solenoid are new and only have 5k miles on it.
Vanos is extremely loud on these cars. A lot of people who buy them instantly think somethings wrong usually. And it isn't.
Usually just loud as hell vanos lol. It sounds broken all the time.
What codes are you getting now after all parts replaced? is the car stuck in limp?
Got is stuck in limp. I havent scanned it yet cause I want to scan it with the correct scanner to get the BMW codes. I ordered a LZLRUN INPA K + CAN K + DCAN and hope its the correct one to read the codes.
When my car went to limp mode with CEL, I just used those bluetooth scanners, cleared the codes and car ran fine for a week or so...then the CEL came back on but no limp...Bad O2's and Bad Cats...so I ended up biting the bullet and de-catted using RMS Fabrications and got a FastAttack Motorsport Tune from Jim with O2 and Cat deletes and drives/screams/sound like a beast with 0 issues so far...the tune and decat still costed less than 2 new cats...go figure.
I dont want to get rid of the car at all. Im doing the bearings, upgraded oil squirters, and vano lines this month. I would also like to get the rms headers as well and power pulley. I just want to fix this fast so I can enjoy the car that I have been after for so many years. Just got the cable today from amazon. Going to try and figure it out to see if I can read the codes.
Ista will give a description of errors. Seems like you have vanos errors (bad news - typically plugged solenoids due to rod bearings), steering angle sensor along with other DSC codes (but start with the sensor) and airbag faults (likely passenger seat sensor - known issue).
The solenoid only have 5k miles on them. Should I buy Sophie solenoid or should I take them out, clean them and put new seals? I want to upgrade throttle actuators as well. Trying to find a good M5 mechanic just Incase I need one in Miami
So here is my update. I cleared codes and car started up amazing but after a few seconds went back into limp mode and emission read out. I read that one member was having the same problem and once he changed the oil everything went back to normal. I drained the oil out yesterday and this is what I find. Im going to drop the pan this wknd and hope nothing has been seriously damaged. The car starts perfect and there is no knocking sound.
So here is my update. I cleared codes and car started up amazing but after a few seconds went back into limp mode and emission read out. I read that one member was having the same problem and once he changed the oil everything went back to normal. I drained the oil out yesterday and this is what I find. Im going to drop the pan this wknd and hope nothing has been seriously damaged. The car starts perfect and there is no knocking sound.
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