DIY: SMG motor refresh + clutch valve o-ring success - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 28th May 2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
gpeterson
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SMG motor refresh + clutch valve o-ring success

I had some funky shifts on my 2007 M5 with 107k miles and was getting consistent 4fa0 (clutch position deviation) and occasional 4f40 (pressure undershoot) codes. The SMG pump motor sounded fine but seemed to kick on too often when pressure shouldn't be dropping, like after sitting for a minute at a stop light. I bought the $100 lower block seal kit from mlreng.com and 2 liters of CHF11S:

http://e36-electronic.com/photos/M5/IMG_4333.jpg


Lots of loose carbon inside the motor:

http://e36-electronic.com/photos/M5/IMG_5229.jpg


One of the brushes sticking:

http://e36-electronic.com/photos/M5/IMG_8339.jpg


Motor after partial cleanup:

http://e36-electronic.com/photos/M5/IMG_2987.jpg


Clutch valve o-rings not looking so great:

http://e36-electronic.com/photos/M5/IMG_6875.jpg



I was able to do the work without dropping the exhaust or lowering the transmission. I did have to unbolt the lower hydraulic block from the transmission using a very short allen wrench and carefully pulling it down a tad with the lines still attached to the top. I cleaned up the motor, lightly filed the stamping on the side of the brushes to prevent sticking, and re-assembled.

The motor was due for maintenance but I don't think that was the cause of the codes and jerkiness. I'm pretty sure the clutch valve o-rings were not sealing well. The pump used to run for over 10 seconds every time I opened the door but this morning after the car sat for 36 hours it ran about 2 seconds and I don't hear it coming on so frequently while driving. Shifting has greatly improved as well.

Last edited by gpeterson; 28th May 2019 at 07:13 PM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 28th May 2019, 08:34 PM
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When I did this job late last year I promised I'd take pics and post a DIY on how to refurb the pump motor. Now that weather is slowly improving I was planning on finally doing so, but there's little to add to your great post here. Just make sure you mark (sharpie works great) the alignment between brushes cap and motor body (magnet). The brushes to magnet alignment is critical on electric motors.

That stuck brush pic is exactly what causes motors to fail. Brushes only need a little trimming to allow them to slide freely.
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post #3 of 11 Old 28th May 2019, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flacoramos View Post
When I did this job late last year I promised I'd take pics and post a DIY on how to refurb the pump motor. Now that weather is slowly improving I was planning on finally doing so, but there's little to add to your great post here. Just make sure you mark (sharpie works great) the alignment between brushes cap and motor body (magnet). The brushes to magnet alignment is critical on electric motors.

That stuck brush pic is exactly what causes motors to fail. Brushes only need a little trimming to allow them to slide freely.
Thanks, I believe you (or someone else) had previously mentioned marking the body & caps to preserve alignment, so I did.

Time will tell, but I'm guessing the SMG motor will be good for another 100k miles. I'm not convinced anyone needs to replace the motor unless it failed for some other reason, especially now that the o-rings, reservoir clamp, and motor coupler are available separately.

Last edited by gpeterson; 28th May 2019 at 08:54 PM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 29th May 2019, 09:35 AM
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Hi gpeterson,

So although currently my shifts are fine and my SMG motor doesn't spin for that long when opening the car, I do get the 4fa0 error code every now and then so i'd be keen to change my clutch valve o-rings as you have and I might as well buy the seal kit and look at the motor too.

I would be grateful if you could confirm a few steps:-

I don't have a lift so will be jacking the car up and getting underneath and as you stated you didn't have to drop the trans, just dropping the hydraulic unit a little with the lines still attached.

: Did you drain all the hydraulic fluid out or did you just remove the clutch valve and allowed the fluid to drain a little when the valve was removed?
: When you replaced the clutch valve did you top the hyd fluid up to the refil port?
: Did you use ISTA/INPA tocarry out any bleeding procedures?
: I can't find the $100 seal kit on the MLR site could you link the product as i can only find the kit with the electric motor?

Many thanks
Jamie
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post #5 of 11 Old 29th May 2019, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamierogan View Post
Hi gpeterson,

So although currently my shifts are fine and my SMG motor doesn't spin for that long when opening the car, I do get the 4fa0 error code every now and then so i'd be keen to change my clutch valve o-rings as you have and I might as well buy the seal kit and look at the motor too.

I would be grateful if you could confirm a few steps:-

I don't have a lift so will be jacking the car up and getting underneath and as you stated you didn't have to drop the trans, just dropping the hydraulic unit a little with the lines still attached.

: Did you drain all the hydraulic fluid out or did you just remove the clutch valve and allowed the fluid to drain a little when the valve was removed?
: When you replaced the clutch valve did you top the hyd fluid up to the refil port?
: Did you use ISTA/INPA tocarry out any bleeding procedures?
: I can't find the $100 seal kit on the MLR site could you link the product as i can only find the kit with the electric motor?

Many thanks
Jamie
I drained all of the fluid. The reservoir and pump have to be removed to get to the motor bolts. After re-assembly you need to fill, bleed/adapt (INPA or ISTA), then top up fluid again.

MLR doesn't list the hardware motor kit on the website, you can contact him at https://mlreng.com/pages/contact-us
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post #6 of 11 Old 29th May 2019, 08:08 PM
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Can you guys elaborate on what kind of 'trimming' you do on the brush? Maybe highlight it in the pic above?
Thx
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post #7 of 11 Old 29th May 2019, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi View Post
Can you guys elaborate on what kind of 'trimming' you do on the brush? Maybe highlight it in the pic above?
Thx
You can't see in the picture, but if you slide the brushes out you will see letters/numbers stamped into the side. The stamping makes the edges of the digits protrude slightly. If you gently file them down the brushes will slide smoothly.
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post #8 of 11 Old 30th May 2019, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
I drained all of the fluid. The reservoir and pump have to be removed to get to the motor bolts. After re-assembly you need to fill, bleed/adapt (INPA or ISTA), then top up fluid again.

MLR doesn't list the hardware motor kit on the website, you can contact him at https://mlreng.com/pages/contact-us
Thanks very much for your reply thats a great help.

Cheers
Jamie
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post #9 of 11 Old 2nd June 2019, 01:58 AM
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Thx, doesn't the adaptation have risk?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
I drained all of the fluid. The reservoir and pump have to be removed to get to the motor bolts. After re-assembly you need to fill, bleed/adapt (INPA or ISTA), then top up fluid again.

MLR doesn't list the hardware motor kit on the website, you can contact him at https://mlreng.com/pages/contact-us
I thought the SMG adaptation in ISTA can fail due to to other parts having issues thus leaving the car inoperable. Is that not the case with this adaptation?
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post #10 of 11 Old 2nd June 2019, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi View Post
I thought the SMG adaptation in ISTA can fail due to to other parts having issues thus leaving the car inoperable. Is that not the case with this adaptation?
That is the case. I installed a spare SMG module and (successfully) ran adaptation on it first so that I would have still have an operable car if adaptation failed.
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