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E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion 2005- Advertiser's Forum

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post #1 of 9 Old 10th April 2019, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
Alan Arnesen
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My M5 story

About three weeks ago I picked up an 06 with 101k on the clock. The clutch and RB had been done about 10k ago. It's swartz on black with extended leather. The guy I bought it from had only had it about a week. He traded his E30 for it and didn't like it. Made a cash deal for 11k, I had been looking for about 18 months for an E60 or E39 M5. I have and E38 that I have been working on for almost two years. rather than breakup the work into separate threads I'll just put it all here in a build thread.

I have coded the car for Aux input and added Ruskil's adaptor. The big news is that I installed new o-rings on my vanos solenoids.

It all started with my first oil change. I take my car to the track regularly and since I could walk my dad had high mileage cars and we always changed the oil. My E38 is a blast to run around the track but it has limits of course and power is the biggest. I want a sedan to haul the family but I also love to drive fast.

I had no trouble with the oil change other than the lack of a dipstick is BS. I put 10 quarts in and I guess that's it.

On to the vanos. The right bank is noisy and I reviewed several invoices from the PO complaining about the noise. Several ventings were done and of course the shop recommend new solenoids. After doing some research I jumped in with new o-rings. I have no codes and the car runs great. There is no way I'm paying $1200-$1800 for an electric coil with a spool valve on the end unless my car is dead. A few o-rings for $40 and some labor is doable.

When I pulled the covers to get in there I found what most people find, a bunch of debris. I cleaned it all out and blasted the radiator and condenser out with water. I had just did the same job on my E38 when I rebuilt the vanos and chain guides on it. I guess I'm doing a coolant change as well.

After getting the fan, radiator and hoses out of the way I had access to the solidiods. They are silver in color not black so maybe they have been replaced. Someone dumped some money into this car. It has Beyern spartan wheels, sprint booster, RPI intakes, underdrive pulley and remnants of and Audison system. Maybe with the RB or clutch the solenoids got changed. I made a tool to get the screws out but did manage to strip the heads on a couple. It seems like they were tightened at the limit of what the head could handle. It is a torx which sucks and they are a shallow head. The tool has to be square and you start applying force and hope it doesn't roll out. The space is really limited to work. I had to knock one loose with a hammer and chisel but I did get them all out. I replaced the damaged screws with allen heads.

The o'rings were in fair condition. A small flat side, no cracks and still plyable. The new o'rings from FCP fit well and I had no trouble changing them out. I measured the coil resistance and got the following readings facing the car from left to right,
2.7, 2.5, 2.5 and 2.0 ohms. All things considered pretty close.

After getting the car back together(at least BMW has figured out how to put a cooling system together on this car). I ran the car at idle for a full warm up. No problems or codes. I ran the car a second time and did a test with INPA it did the whole revving thing. INPA does not give a report but you can look at the values and you get read and green zones. I snipped a page with high mA but it's in German so I can't read it. If I had to guess the coil with 2.0 ohms has some extra current running through it.



For now I'm just going to drive the car. I did the vanos rebuild on my E38 and I thing what mad the difference was crimping the cam gear. If I wanted to get rid of the noise I would go after the cam gears. I do have one question for the group. There is a two pin connector coming off of the right hand hood latch. It was just hanging down by the oil filter. I looked through TIS but could not find where it goes. Anyone have an idea what it is for? The car runs fine with no fault codes.
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post #2 of 9 Old 10th April 2019, 08:02 PM
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post #3 of 9 Old 10th April 2019, 11:43 PM
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Welcome..

If it were me with the solenoids just get the whole actuator assembly , I think it works out cheaper than 2 solenoids. iirc it's 2500. Or you can try the after market options that I found are more useful for target practice than putting in the car. The oring swaps rarely help only because they're not typically the failure point.

The plug, so I'm confused the filter is located under the car not near the hood latch. by the filter is the SAP pump so if that's that then maybe that was removed, by the right side hood latch could be a few things, post a pic.

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post #4 of 9 Old 14th April 2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well I did my first run with launch control, WOW! I may even keep the car now. It is the US tune so it only went to 1500rpm. They should call it launch out of control. It did it on a wet road but even dry I'm sure it will smoke the tires. It is way easier to have fun at sane speeds with launch control. Otherwise I have to be in triple digits and turning to get my blood pumping.

I have a question for the group? I keep getting the increased emissions CEL that I pretty much ignore. Is there a straight fix for this or is it a chase your tail kind of fault? Vacuum leak would be my first guess.
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post #5 of 9 Old 22nd April 2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got back out on the track for a full day. I took my son, his girlfriend and my brother for rides. The car ran great for most of the day. It started out a little slippery from the rain and my brand new conti's. Once I got the tires scrubbed off and the track dried out the car was tight and fast. I added a four point for myself and it made a world of difference. I could just have one hand on the wheel in the corners once the car was set.

In the last session of the day I was comfortable with the car and turned off the DSC. Unfortunately the car was not happy. It tripped into reduced power mode three times. 025, exhaust B over retarded. I shut the car off and it would restart just fine. It may be the same vanos solenoid that measured low resistance and high current in the INPA test. I'm going to sea for a couple of months so I guess I'll deal with it when I get back?
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post #6 of 9 Old 22nd April 2019, 04:31 PM
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I added a four point for myself and it made a world of difference.
What setup did you get? Got a link? Very interested.
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post #7 of 9 Old 23rd April 2019, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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I just got a simple four point off of amazon for $12. The shoulder and waist belts attach where the factory three point is bolted up. I had to remove the left side trim panel to bolt up that side but I used the factory bolts. The belt just lays in the seat when I'm not using it. I did the same thing in my e38 but I had to use longer bolts. I'm not using it for safety, I'm using it to keep me in place. Under the new rules for most clubs if you use a full five point you also have to have a head restraint.
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post #8 of 9 Old 23rd April 2019, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan Arnesen View Post
I just got a simple four point off of amazon for $12. The shoulder and waist belts attach where the factory three point is bolted up. I had to remove the left side trim panel to bolt up that side but I used the factory bolts. The belt just lays in the seat when I'm not using it. I did the same thing in my e38 but I had to use longer bolts. I'm not using it for safety, I'm using it to keep me in place. Under the new rules for most clubs if you use a full five point you also have to have a head restraint.
Ah I see. If you could post the amazon link that'd be great.
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post #9 of 9 Old 23rd April 2019, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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