Looks like I can no longer edit the previous post so here goes the piece about the pump/clutch block.
Reassembling this is pretty simple, similarly to the shift actuator block you assemble the clutch solenoid from the small o-ring to the large one and slide it in after applying grease on the o-rings.
insert the motor o-ring (large thin one, goes into a groove around the motor face) and bolt it in orienting such that the wire is closest to the clutch/actuator solenoid. this is important otherwise you won't be able to bolt the front bracket around the accumulator. put a little blue threadlocker on the 2 motor bolts.
Next step is to insert the motor-pump coupler, this is a bit of a pain, I put grease on the motor side of it so that it would stay put and pressed it all the way down. The trick here is to keep it as centered as possible since it has to couple at 90 degrees into the pump drive shaft so you'll need to orient it and the shaft so they are aligned as you slide push the pump in. before putting the pump in don't forget to put the o-ring around the motor coupler and the little o-ring for its high pressure port. grease both and insert it while making sure the coupler stays aligned.
Next steps are pretty simple, bolt the accumulator and the 2 sensors back on, making sure again to grease the o-rings (the temp sensor, the one that doesn't have a hole in on its end, has a crush washer). before putting on the reservoir don't forget to replace the 2 o-rings for it, one is on the pump feed on the reservoir side, and another is on the other side of the solenoid for the return. Then install the big o-ring around the reservoir coupler.
This is the tricky part, the pump is prone to air-locking if it's not pre-filled during assembly, I actually didn't do it this way but I read some jcolley posts where he recommends priming the pump and installing the reservoir such that the pump is on top and motor on the bottom, that way gravity should help get oil in the pump. Then turning on the motor momentarily to get oil in the pump.
The way I actually got the air block to go through was by filling the reservoir and then sticking a rubber hose hooked up to an airline with 10psi or so of air pressure, then just as the motor started running i applied pressure through the fill port and that was enough to force oil into the pump.
Next step is to mount the pump block onto the SMG and hook up the return line from the actuator block, it's easier to do this before the clutch slave is installed, I purchased a new viton hose to replace the old return line, a 3/8" ID x 9/16" OD fits perfectly https://www.mcmaster.com/5119k34
Next thing I did was to slightly mod my clutch slave. I hate that if the slave cylinder fails I have to remove the whole gearbox so I pressed out the 2 bolts and instead pressed them into the transmission backwards, so they stick out towards the slave cylinder from inside. this way I could slide in the slave cylinder and screw on the nuts from the outside. the bolts press fit really well into the transmission so I presume the slave and transmission holes are the same size.
From here you simply need to bolt on the solid metal pipe to the clutch slave and the pressure line up to the actuator block. I had to modify a wrench to fit onto the compression fitting by the actuator, it's in a corner and it was too tight for a normal wrench to fit, your wrenches will obviously vary, but i just ground off the wrench on the sides so i could get a full 60 degrees of rotation.
And last but not least, you need to lift the gearbox into place, that's not covered in this refurb, but GOOD LUCK, it's HEAVY!!! Try to align the input shaft as straight as possible before sliding the gearbox all the way in, and if you're having a hard time pushing it in, try to turn the output shaft to align the splines. then you just wiggle it until it's fully seated.
I think this basically wraps up the refurb, next step is to bleed/vent the whole system and run through all of the adaptation/calibration steps. I use rheingold but you should be able to do the adaptation in INPA and DIS just as well. I will document this in the next post once I get my SMG all sorted out.