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post #21 of 61 Old 27th February 2019, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
maddios
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So I'm still pretty much stuck on why I can't get my actuator block to vent, but I'm now starting to think that it might have something to do with this:



does that make sense? I don't get why it would be related since the system is coming up to full pressure but who knows.

Does anyone know what conditions need to be satisfied for the ventilation procedure besides what's listed in rheingold? it just says engine must be off and ignition on.

Last edited by maddios; 27th February 2019 at 08:34 AM.
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post #22 of 61 Old 28th February 2019, 03:24 AM
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Did you change the accumulator which is i believe that black tube peice.
Is it possible the accumalator needs to be released.
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post #23 of 61 Old 28th February 2019, 03:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimitri View Post
Did you change the accumulator which is i believe that black tube peice.
Is it possible the accumalator needs to be released.
Haven't tried swapping the accumulator yet, Robert over at MLReng.com is sending me a used(known good) one to try, since I'm out of ideas at this point.

What do you mean by the accumulator needing to be released?

If you mean drop SMG hydraulic pressure, then yes, i tried dropping pressure and letting it re-pressurize a few times.
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post #24 of 61 Old 28th February 2019, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddios View Post
Haven't tried swapping the accumulator yet, Robert over at MLReng.com is sending me a used(known good) one to try, since I'm out of ideas at this point.

What do you mean by the accumulator needing to be released?

If you mean drop SMG hydraulic pressure, then yes, i tried dropping pressure and letting it re-pressurize a few times.
yes correct regarding the pressure
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post #25 of 61 Old 1st March 2019, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like I can no longer edit the previous post so here goes the piece about the pump/clutch block.

Reassembling this is pretty simple, similarly to the shift actuator block you assemble the clutch solenoid from the small o-ring to the large one and slide it in after applying grease on the o-rings.

insert the motor o-ring (large thin one, goes into a groove around the motor face) and bolt it in orienting such that the wire is closest to the clutch/actuator solenoid. this is important otherwise you won't be able to bolt the front bracket around the accumulator. put a little blue threadlocker on the 2 motor bolts.

Next step is to insert the motor-pump coupler, this is a bit of a pain, I put grease on the motor side of it so that it would stay put and pressed it all the way down. The trick here is to keep it as centered as possible since it has to couple at 90 degrees into the pump drive shaft so you'll need to orient it and the shaft so they are aligned as you slide push the pump in. before putting the pump in don't forget to put the o-ring around the motor coupler and the little o-ring for its high pressure port. grease both and insert it while making sure the coupler stays aligned.

Next steps are pretty simple, bolt the accumulator and the 2 sensors back on, making sure again to grease the o-rings (the temp sensor, the one that doesn't have a hole in on its end, has a crush washer). before putting on the reservoir don't forget to replace the 2 o-rings for it, one is on the pump feed on the reservoir side, and another is on the other side of the solenoid for the return. Then install the big o-ring around the reservoir coupler.

This is the tricky part, the pump is prone to air-locking if it's not pre-filled during assembly, I actually didn't do it this way but I read some jcolley posts where he recommends priming the pump and installing the reservoir such that the pump is on top and motor on the bottom, that way gravity should help get oil in the pump. Then turning on the motor momentarily to get oil in the pump.

The way I actually got the air block to go through was by filling the reservoir and then sticking a rubber hose hooked up to an airline with 10psi or so of air pressure, then just as the motor started running i applied pressure through the fill port and that was enough to force oil into the pump.

Next step is to mount the pump block onto the SMG and hook up the return line from the actuator block, it's easier to do this before the clutch slave is installed, I purchased a new viton hose to replace the old return line, a 3/8" ID x 9/16" OD fits perfectly https://www.mcmaster.com/5119k34.

Next thing I did was to slightly mod my clutch slave. I hate that if the slave cylinder fails I have to remove the whole gearbox so I pressed out the 2 bolts and instead pressed them into the transmission backwards, so they stick out towards the slave cylinder from inside. this way I could slide in the slave cylinder and screw on the nuts from the outside. the bolts press fit really well into the transmission so I presume the slave and transmission holes are the same size.

From here you simply need to bolt on the solid metal pipe to the clutch slave and the pressure line up to the actuator block. I had to modify a wrench to fit onto the compression fitting by the actuator, it's in a corner and it was too tight for a normal wrench to fit, your wrenches will obviously vary, but i just ground off the wrench on the sides so i could get a full 60 degrees of rotation.

And last but not least, you need to lift the gearbox into place, that's not covered in this refurb, but GOOD LUCK, it's HEAVY!!! Try to align the input shaft as straight as possible before sliding the gearbox all the way in, and if you're having a hard time pushing it in, try to turn the output shaft to align the splines. then you just wiggle it until it's fully seated.

I think this basically wraps up the refurb, next step is to bleed/vent the whole system and run through all of the adaptation/calibration steps. I use rheingold but you should be able to do the adaptation in INPA and DIS just as well. I will document this in the next post once I get my SMG all sorted out.

Last edited by maddios; 1st March 2019 at 06:25 AM.
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post #26 of 61 Old 1st March 2019, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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I wasn't going to document doing the actual clutch replacement or replacing the input/output shaft seals, but I figured I would at least document a few things that stumped me while I was doing it.

First off, I replaced the motor Rear Main Seal which seals around the crank shaft at the back of the motor. You remove and install it just a regular seal except do NOT lubricate the sealing face (the face that goes against the crank shaft). This is a teflon seal and it basically lubricates itself, oiling it would prevent it from breaking in properly. I put a little RTV on the 3 and 9 o-clock positions since that's where the 2 halves of the block meet and mine had a little bit of a gap, figure it can't hurt to seal that up.

The input shaft seal was annoying a little just because there's no real room to get in, but if you tap one side inward then it should loosen up enough to be able to go in behind it with a 90 degree pick and yank it out. This seal you grease before pressing in.

Output seal is annoying because you'll need a 30mm deep socket, ideally an impact wrench of some sort and a puller to actually remove the output shaft flange since it will be stuck onto the splines. I left the bolt partially screwed in (almost all the way in, backed out like 1 turn) and pressed it using a 3 jaw puller, backing out the bolt as i went. Again grease the seal before pushing it in. At this point you might notice that there is no seal by the splines of the output flange, oil could technically squeeze through and leak past the bolt, before installing the bolt back in I put RTV on its face, specifically around the outside to seal against the flange.

That's about it, change the oil in the gearbox while you still have it out (about 2.5 liters of oil), and don't forget to drain and clean filter for the cooling radiator under the gearbox (the black banjo next to the motor). PS: I tried to activate my pump, it runs but it sounds like it has never run in its entire life.
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post #27 of 61 Old 4th April 2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally got to drive the car a few times (about 100 miles) and I can report that so far the refurb has been a resounding success.

The trans shifts so much smoother now since my throw out bearing isn't sticking and the shift solenoids are working flawlessly. I'm not seeing weird gear shift delays when the trans is cold (where the gear number flashes because it's taking too long to get into next gear).

As far as that error I was getting where I couldn't get the shifter block to vent, I'm assuming that was due to oil temperature. I was doing it at the borderline temp of around 60F (actual oil temp around 10C), which I think is below their required number, it's not mentioned in the procedure, but I changed nothing else and now it runs once it's warmed up in my area.

Now I just need to put up a few hundred miles and check my SMG fluid level to make sure I don't have a piston leak (oil leaking from the SMG shift pistons into the transmission).

Last edited by maddios; 4th April 2019 at 11:33 PM.
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post #28 of 61 Old 10th April 2019, 04:54 AM
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post #29 of 61 Old 10th April 2019, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately I don't run/own a shop, at best I could offer advice if you have questions.

There are others on this forum like jcolley or the MLReng.com guys who I'm sure will gladly help you perform a rebuild/refurb of your SMG3. In fact MLReng helped me at a bunch of points when I had questions. I probably exchanged 100+ emails them.

sorry
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post #30 of 61 Old 5th May 2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got around to running a data logging session on the SMG while driving home the other day and got some interesting results

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...21&single=true

Looks like as smg hydraulic temp rises so does the pressure set point but as it keeps rising for some reason looks like the pump can not reach the shut off set point, it kind of hits some upper limit of its capability and sits there until timeout.

As you can see along the bottom of that graph once the smg temps cross around 60C the motor starts to time out (15 seconds). It basically starts pumping around 55bar and just running until it times out after 15 seconds.

Further looks like until 60C the pressure build up is very sharp, it goes straight up and stops cleanly at peak pressure, but at higher temps the pressure starts to trail off and just stays at 75bar or so until the pump times out.


Here's the question though, where could this thing be bleeding down from?
As far as I can tell there are 2 points, the check valve on the bottom behind the drain bolt and also the clutch solenoid.

I have yet to pull the solenoid out (it's kind of annoying to get to) to inspect its o-rings, maybe i kinked or tore it while inserting. But I'm wondering if the check valve could've not seated properly either when I unseated it to initially bleed the pump.

Any ideas welcome. thanks
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