So I changed the alternator/regulator and all seemed fine u til I left the car parked overnight and got a Left rear fog light warning and subsequently a Battery drain message (but the car did start). Starting to be fed up spending significant $ not solving the problem...
I am thinking about 2 possibilities :
1. Something is not “going to sleep*» and somehow draining the battery (the voltage does seem to drop about 1V in a day).
2. IBS sensor could be faulty
Has anyone had those related issues and what was the culprit?
Thanks in advance
Following up on the above :
My local guy replaced the battery with an Exide AGM 80 aH at the time I had the Eisenmann and the stage 1 mapping done about eight months ago.
That battery has died about 2 weeks ago although I kept the car on a CTEK trickle charger with the AGM program.
Saturday I decided to analyse the source of the drain using the Ampère meter / pulling fuses method in the following sequence :
1. removed the old battery and replaced i with the original OEM I had removed as preventive maintenance end of 2016 (I had that since then on a CTEK as well)
1a. let that battery replenish overnight with a CTEK on the engine bay points
2. plugged a charger to the engine bay boost points
3. Used jump cable to short the battery negative terminal to a bodywork negative point near the trunk fuse box
4. Unscrewed the trunk negative battery lead au the bodywork nut and plugged my amp meter between the lead end and the bodywork nut.
5 Manually locked all dors, boot lid and both engine bay latches
6 Locked the car with the remote
7. started measuring the current draw as follows (filming the amp meter with my phone) :
0'00 : 758 mA
0'08 : 701- 707 mA
1'44 : 683 mA
2'20 - 2'40 : 164 mA
2'54 : 20 mA
14'31 : 4 mA (fluctuating then on between 3 and 4 mA)
then 2 time laps until my phone died
Yet : I have lost 4% since the past 15 hours (see pic) :
Question 1 : where is my battery drain ?
Question 2 : should I re-register my "old battery" ?
Thanks for any pointers you may have.