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post #1 of 12 Old 29th September 2018, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craze View Post
Trickle chargers and not registering batteries wreck batteries
^This but also no harm checking running voltage/alternator output.

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post #2 of 12 Old 30th September 2018, 12:12 AM
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Check your alternator! Had the same exact issue on my old e90. These cars will throw multiple codes when voltage goes haywire. Changed battery and it worked for 1 day and died again. Found out it was my alternator


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post #3 of 12 Old 30th September 2018, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Battery causing multiple errors

Thanks for the tips.
w days ago when I came home from changing the battery, it registered 12.71V, today (2 days later) 11.7 V, something is draining it so I put t back on the charger for now.

Alternator running voltage is 14.7V

Any further ideas ?


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post #4 of 12 Old 1st October 2018, 01:50 AM
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Diagnosing sleep mode is a pain the ***..

My You can measure draw across a circuit by using the fuse a shunt, but you need to wait for the car to sleep. IIRC Inpa can force it to sleep but I haven't looked at that for a while.

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post #5 of 12 Old 1st October 2018, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ferris View Post
Diagnosing sleep mode is a pain the ***..



My You can measure draw across a circuit by using the fuse a shunt, but you need to wait for the car to sleep. IIRC Inpa can force it to sleep but I haven't looked at that for a while.


Thanks Ferris, I will try to pinpoint the culprit !


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post #6 of 12 Old 3rd October 2018, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5MOKED View Post
Check your alternator! Had the same exact issue on my old e90. These cars will throw multiple codes when voltage goes haywire. Changed battery and it worked for 1 day and died again. Found out it was my alternator


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Well it took 2 days, so next alternator and regulator I’m afraid !
All goes fine as long as I drive at a reasonable speed. Today the voltage dropped when relying more heavily on power steering while parking in the garage .



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post #7 of 12 Old 14th October 2018, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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So I changed the alternator/regulator and all seemed fine u til I left the car parked overnight and got a Left rear fog light warning and subsequently a Battery drain message (but the car did start). Starting to be fed up spending significant $ not solving the problem...

I am thinking about 2 possibilities :
1. Something is not “going to sleep*» and somehow draining the battery (the voltage does seem to drop about 1V in a day).
2. IBS sensor could be faulty

Has anyone had those related issues and what was the culprit?

Thanks in advance

Best regards

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post #8 of 12 Old 10th June 2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Battery drain but where ?

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Originally Posted by mfettara View Post
So I changed the alternator/regulator and all seemed fine u til I left the car parked overnight and got a Left rear fog light warning and subsequently a Battery drain message (but the car did start). Starting to be fed up spending significant $ not solving the problem...

I am thinking about 2 possibilities :
1. Something is not “going to sleep*» and somehow draining the battery (the voltage does seem to drop about 1V in a day).
2. IBS sensor could be faulty

Has anyone had those related issues and what was the culprit?

Thanks in advance

Best regards
Following up on the above :

My local guy replaced the battery with an Exide AGM 80 aH at the time I had the Eisenmann and the stage 1 mapping done about eight months ago.

That battery has died about 2 weeks ago although I kept the car on a CTEK trickle charger with the AGM program.


Saturday I decided to analyse the source of the drain using the Ampère meter / pulling fuses method in the following sequence :

1. removed the old battery and replaced i with the original OEM I had removed as preventive maintenance end of 2016 (I had that since then on a CTEK as well)
1a. let that battery replenish overnight with a CTEK on the engine bay points
2. plugged a charger to the engine bay boost points
3. Used jump cable to short the battery negative terminal to a bodywork negative point near the trunk fuse box
4. Unscrewed the trunk negative battery lead au the bodywork nut and plugged my amp meter between the lead end and the bodywork nut.
5 Manually locked all dors, boot lid and both engine bay latches
6 Locked the car with the remote
7. started measuring the current draw as follows (filming the amp meter with my phone) :
0'00 : 758 mA
0'08 : 701- 707 mA
1'44 : 683 mA
2'20 - 2'40 : 164 mA
2'54 : 20 mA
14'31 : 4 mA (fluctuating then on between 3 and 4 mA)
then 2 time laps until my phone died

Yet : I have lost 4% since the past 15 hours (see pic) :


Question 1 : where is my battery drain ?

Question 2 : should I re-register my "old battery" ?

Thanks for any pointers you may have.

Marc
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Last edited by mfettara; 10th June 2019 at 07:12 PM. Reason: pictures
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post #9 of 12 Old 10th June 2019, 08:45 PM
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Pics not working for me. But 4 mA after full sleep is very reasonable. And yes you can re-register an old battery (I'd say you should register anytime you change the battery).

Also as I posted on another thread you can query the history as the car keeps track of the last 32 or so cycles for excessive discharge.
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post #10 of 12 Old 10th June 2019, 08:49 PM
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Just to make sure you removed the jumper cable from batt neg to body after you installed your ammeter and hooked the cable back correct?
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