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post #1 of 20 Old 6th June 2018, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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SMG Shifting Issues, yet no codes... Help?

2006 M5 with 88k miles. Ive never had any faults or codes or cogs, yellow or red. But the other day, driving around town, shifts between gears were taking about twice as long as usual, in all gears. For instance, going from 1 to 2, the display would read 2 right away, but would blink during the lag. At about the time where the shift would normally end, the rpm's start to drop. so when it does finally drop into gear, it drops harder than normal. Cruising at very slow speeds, (like in a parking lot, 1-3 mph) is pretty rough, like someones first time driving stick. Ive never experienced any clutch slippage or grindage. the trans fluid was changed about 4,000 miles ago. A few months back I had some minor body repair done, shop had it for a little over 2 weeks waiting on insurance. When i picked it up, the guy in a half assed confession basically told me my battery wasn't good, possibly because they probably left the trunk or door open while they worked on it. now, when the car sits for a few days to a week, the first start takes maybe 1 or 2 seconds longer to start than before. Doesn't seem like a big deal, and don't know if its related, just trying to get all the info out there. So thats where Im at, with no codes to show for it. I called one shop and they recommended driving it more till it throws a code. Im just looking for some ideas as of where to start. Feel free to ask if I left any info out that might help. Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 20 Old 6th June 2018, 01:45 AM
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The car is very sensitive to voltage. If the battery or alternator aren't providing the adequate amount of power, many things will start malfunctioning. I would recommend to get that checked out first and go from there.

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post #3 of 20 Old 6th June 2018, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by psing23 View Post
The car is very sensitive to voltage. If the battery or alternator aren't providing the adequate amount of power, many things will start malfunctioning. I would recommend to get that checked out first and go from there.

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Sounds like a good idea, thanks!
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post #4 of 20 Old 6th June 2018, 05:23 PM
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Too often , electrical voltage is the favourite scapegoat for many problems. If the SMG shifting is acting up or feels rough, a more comprehensive test and meaningful remedy would be to scan for errors and where none is found, to just do a quick software re-adaptation of the tranny and clutch actuation. This would also help prolong the components’ lifespan as things won’t be banging so hard all the time during shifts. A quick check on the hydro fluid (CHF11S) level would be good as well.

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post #5 of 20 Old 7th June 2018, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
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I can see how that would be beneficial, Ill definitely look into that, try to find a shop that has that capability. Thanks for your input!
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post #6 of 20 Old 8th June 2018, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Im about to go have my battery and alternator tested. Anyone have the numbers Im shooting for??
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post #7 of 20 Old 8th June 2018, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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So I went ahead and had the battery and alternator tested and both looked good, great even the guy said. Problem is still there. drove about 10 miles, and still no codes or anything.
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post #8 of 20 Old 8th June 2018, 08:28 PM
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Try filling the smg tank with fluid...

How does the pump sound on u locking the car?


After that, giving the 3 step adaption a try via dis or ista would be a good bet...

Be prepared, if something in the smg system is weak or going bad, the adaption will fail. So at least u will have an answer but will be stuck where she sits
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post #9 of 20 Old 9th June 2018, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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The pump seems to sound alright. I thinks it hard to tell with no direct comparison. It runs for maybe 5-7 seconds. I do notice it runs a lot when the car is warmed up, if I'm at a drive thru or a stop light. And I had NO idea that if it failed adaptations Id be stuck!! So glad you told me!! So even though it can drive around just fine now with no codes, if I have them hook it up and run adaptations and something fails, it aint moving till its fixed?? And trans fluid was just changed a few thousand miles ago, think it could possibly need more? Ive never seen a drop of anything under the car. So am I correct in saying, don't hook it up to a computer till Im prepared to pay for the worst case scenario?? And is that worst case the pump itself??
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post #10 of 20 Old 9th June 2018, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCStowaway View Post
The pump seems to sound alright. I thinks it hard to tell with no direct comparison. It runs for maybe 5-7 seconds. I do notice it runs a lot when the car is warmed up, if I'm at a drive thru or a stop light. And I had NO idea that if it failed adaptations Id be stuck!! So glad you told me!! So even though it can drive around just fine now with no codes, if I have them hook it up and run adaptations and something fails, it aint moving till its fixed?? And trans fluid was just changed a few thousand miles ago, think it could possibly need more? Ive never seen a drop of anything under the car. So am I correct in saying, don't hook it up to a computer till Im prepared to pay for the worst case scenario?? And is that worst case the pump itself??

If you have access to ISTA, you can also do an accumulator pressure test, so make sure the system is holding sufficient hydro pressure. The passing range would be 29-40ish Bar, as stated in the test page.

Also, definitely hook it up to a computer, it may be your cheapest fix yet. Remember, the computer should always be the first (and last) point of repair. If mechanical intervention is needed in between, then thats whatever is required. computer plugins will *NEVER* resolve a mechanical fault but at least it will give you a definitive point to troubleshoot instead of shooting in the dark and doing old-school swaps of this part or that part ala Russian Roulette style. ISTA/DIS/INPA/etc. adaptations cannot really make your car worse. It can only "make" it better and keep the mechatronics running as it should be.

Also, when you say that your tranny fluid was changed, I'd clarify: which one? In SMG gearboxes, there are 2 vital fluids. One is the trans lube fluid which is the typical MTF-LT2 gear oil (the typical 75w80 gear oil) for lubrication of the cogs and nothing else. The next fluid is the hydraulic fluid, Pentosin CHF-11S . These are 2 separate and distinct fluids and they do not intermix, as they circulate in separate areas. The black rectangular plastic reservoir on the tranny's left hand side holds the CHF-11S juice.

- M(ugen)Foo

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Last edited by mugenfoo; 9th June 2018 at 02:53 AM.
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