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post #1 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
sundaycruzers
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Throttle actuator gears where to buy

Iím getting ready to do plugs and lubricant throttle linkage thinking it would be smart to replace the actuator gears while Iím in there not sure if eBay is a smart move and my searches fine the guys at rebuild.net in uk is there a better option?
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post #2 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 07:56 AM
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I actually just did mine this evening, lol. I bought mine off eBay from Odometer gears and they fit perfectly. I had looked at the other option where the gears come with the shaft installed, but after seeing a you tube video on removing/installing the shaft with the gear installed and the potential to damage the motor by banging on it, I felt it better to go with just the gears. Odometer gears has a how to video on it, but it looked a bit sketchy on his process by using a hand drill. I used a drill press and drilling the pin hole went flawless. The rest of the process was just like the video.

Couple of tips if you go the gear replacing without the shaft replacement: youíll need two part epoxy like JB weld, a good sharp file to shape the end of the shaft the gear goes on...it is a requiremen as the flat does not go to the end of the shaft, and a small drill bit to weaken the original gear to break it off. Also, be sure that the two posts that connect the circuit board to the motor line up in the connectors...if you just place the circuit board on and line up the bolt holes, the pins will not hit the connectors. Shine a light and look through the gap as you close the cover to be sure the connectors hit right. Iíll bet this is why some folks were not successful when rebuilding these.

This was my first go at even taking the plenums off this car but everything went flawless. I did not have to recalibrate the actuators, but I did have to run them in test mode a couple of times to get the failed bank to register...if yours have not failed you may not have to do this. And just in case you have not taken the plenums off, I attached a picture of my new friends, lol...to me the flexible extension that has the plastic sectioned outside is a must have. You can shape it and it stays that way to get the clamps off where as the flexible type that wants to stay straight was quickly put back in the tool drawer.
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2007 e63 M6 - All black
2008 e64 650i - All black
1998 e38 740il - All black

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post #3 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 08:49 AM
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I have many sets of rebuilt throttle actuators for sale. I am the official supplier for Rebuild UK in North America. Check me out at https://www.mpowermotorsports.org. Changing the gears is a waste of time and money. Because it has been proven over and over again that changing just the gears will not solve the problem!

Furthermore, just replacing the Mosfets alone will not solve the problem either. I took 10 circuit boards. Replaced the Mosfets on all 10 of them. Put Odometer gears on them as well. Only 1 of them actually survived past 300 miles. The rest of them went into limp mode again almost immediately. (This test procedure was very frustrating and costly!)

I, on the other hand, upgraded all Gears to superior materials. Replaced all Mosfets. All Transistors, capacitors, Voltage regulators, microprocessor, serial Eprom were tested or changed if necessary.

Once I have remanufactured the circuit board and replaced the gears with superior materials, it will not need to be replaced again. However, if it ever does, it has an unlimited mile lifetime warranty so I will replace it at no extra cost!

Price: $350.00 (Per Unit) $12.00 shipping

$700.00 (Set of two) Free shipping

I am basically offering this to my ///M family at my cost with almost no profit. Why pay $1,400.00 dollars for a part which could be bought for $700.00?

Contact me here through the board or text me at 7347304411. Thanks.

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post #4 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbdulM View Post
I took 10 circuit boards. Replaced the Mosfets on all 10 of them. Put Odometer gears on them as well. Only 1 of them actually survived past 300 miles. The rest of them went into limp mode again almost immediately.

I, on the other hand, upgraded all Gears to superior materials. Replaced all Mosfets. All Transistors, capacitors, Voltage regulators, microprocessor, serial Eprom were tested or changed if necessary.

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Thanks for the info, if these do not hold up, Iíll keep your info for reference. Just a question, on the 10 that you replaced just the Mosfets and replaced the gears with the Odometer gears, did you take them apart to determine the failure mode after they failed again? Was it the Odometer gears that failed or was it that you only changed just the Mosfets and not the other potentially damaged circuit components that caused the limp mode?

Unless the Odometer gears are being made from very inferior plastic, I cannot imagine that they would only make it less than 300 miles. They appear to be injection molded gears so the Odometer Gear Co. can easily use glass filled polymers to make them stronger. I did not call Odometer gears to see what type of polymer they are using, but probably should just for reference. Do you know the polymer you are using, is it a glass filled nylon like S6?

2007 e63 M6 - All black
2008 e64 650i - All black
1998 e38 740il - All black

Seems I like black cars !
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post #5 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 09:23 AM
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When I took them apart after replacing the gears and the mosfets, I determined that there were other components on the circuit board that had failed. Those had to be replaced or refurbished as I mentioned in my earlier text.

The odometer gears are excellent. But just changing the gears will not fix the damage that has already been done to the circuit board.

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00 E39 M5 (Diny's M5)
92 300zx Twin Turbo (Pearl White)

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E39 M5 (Silverstone Metalic)
E39 M5 (Carbon Black)
09 E60 550i (Dinan 5/M Package)


"Throttle Actuator Specialist"
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post #6 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 09:48 AM
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Thanks for the clarification, it sounded as if the Odometer gears were contributing to the failure reoccurrence as you mentioned you were using superior gears.

Yes, I would agree that if the circuit boards have been overloaded by the failing gears causing a constant set/reset to maintain control of the throttle position, just changing the gears will not fix the problem. Hopefully catching the failure early versus clearing the limp mode many times until it will no longer reset or the preventive maintenance that the OP is planning will minimize the circuit board damage so it will continue to function with the new gears.

Do you sell just the refurbished circuit boards or only sell complete actuator units?

2007 e63 M6 - All black
2008 e64 650i - All black
1998 e38 740il - All black

Seems I like black cars !
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post #7 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 09:50 AM
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Entire units.

Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

Garage:

08 E92 M3 (Alpine White)
00 E39 M5 (Diny's M5)
92 300zx Twin Turbo (Pearl White)

Sold:

E39 M5 (Silverstone Metalic)
E39 M5 (Carbon Black)
09 E60 550i (Dinan 5/M Package)


"Throttle Actuator Specialist"
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post #8 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbdulM View Post
Entire units.

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Sounds good...
Do you have a website?

Regards
J (formerly SchrickM5)

Current ride:-

2014 M5 Competition
Alpine White III
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post #9 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waitingondapig View Post
I actually just did mine this evening, lol. I bought mine off eBay from Odometer gears and they fit perfectly. I had looked at the other option where the gears come with the shaft installed, but after seeing a you tube video on removing/installing the shaft with the gear installed and the potential to damage the motor by banging on it, I felt it better to go with just the gears. Odometer gears has a how to video on it, but it looked a bit sketchy on his process by using a hand drill. I used a drill press and drilling the pin hole went flawless. The rest of the process was just like the video.



Couple of tips if you go the gear replacing without the shaft replacement: youíll need two part epoxy like JB weld, a good sharp file to shape the end of the shaft the gear goes on...it is a requiremen as the flat does not go to the end of the shaft, and a small drill bit to weaken the original gear to break it off. Also, be sure that the two posts that connect the circuit board to the motor line up in the connectors...if you just place the circuit board on and line up the bolt holes, the pins will not hit the connectors. Shine a light and look through the gap as you close the cover to be sure the connectors hit right. Iíll bet this is why some folks were not successful when rebuilding these.



This was my first go at even taking the plenums off this car but everything went flawless. I did not have to recalibrate the actuators, but I did have to run them in test mode a couple of times to get the failed bank to register...if yours have not failed you may not have to do this. And just in case you have not taken the plenums off, I attached a picture of my new friends, lol...to me the flexible extension that has the plastic sectioned outside is a must have. You can shape it and it stays that way to get the clamps off where as the flexible type that wants to stay straight was quickly put back in the tool drawer.


Whatís the epoxy for? and you said thereís a video? Iím sure just type it into you tube right
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post #10 of 38 Old 28th March 2018, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waitingondapig View Post
Thanks for the info, if these do not hold up, Iíll keep your info for reference. Just a question, on the 10 that you replaced just the Mosfets and replaced the gears with the Odometer gears, did you take them apart to determine the failure mode after they failed again? Was it the Odometer gears that failed or was it that you only changed just the Mosfets and not the other potentially damaged circuit components that caused the limp mode?



Unless the Odometer gears are being made from very inferior plastic, I cannot imagine that they would only make it less than 300 miles. They appear to be injection molded gears so the Odometer Gear Co. can easily use glass filled polymers to make them stronger. I did not call Odometer gears to see what type of polymer they are using, but probably should just for reference. Do you know the polymer you are using, is it a glass filled nylon like S6?


Mine havenít failed so Iím looking at preventative maintenance. Question, if I replace gears with upgraded gears wouldnít I avoid the problems with the circuit board l?
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