Doing my throttle actuators...anything else I should service while Iím there? - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 16 Old 27th March 2018, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
Waitingondapig
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Doing my throttle actuators...anything else I should service while Iím there?

Well, I keep getting the annoying 1/2 engine fault from the throttle actuators so the disassembly has begun to replace the actuator gears. After removing the big plenums, it looks like no one has ever touched this engine up top even though it has 75,000 miles on it ( factory clamps were still there on the two hoses on the rear sides of the plenums ).

While Iím at this point, is there anything else I might need to change or clean that would be easier with the plastic off? Spark plugs, lube any moving parts, etc....?

I also noticed that the front two butterflies have some carbon on them then the carbon gets less and less as you move to the back of the engine ( towards the fire wall ). Is this common due to how the air moves through the plenum or maybe I need to look at something?
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post #2 of 16 Old 27th March 2018, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waitingondapig View Post
( factory clamps were still there on the two hoses on the rear sides of the plenums ).
If you are talking about the two return hoses to the cylinder head cover, it is made like this and intended to be unlocked from below (Norma quick clamp), unreachable though... that is why I replaced the top clamps by spring type.

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Originally Posted by Waitingondapig View Post
While Iím at this point, is there anything else I might need to change or clean that would be easier with the plastic off? Spark plugs, lube any moving parts, etc....?
As most of the engine works need to remove the plenum, it is virtually up to you!
The only things that are in the vicinity of the throttle actuators and can take opportunity of the harness move is the temperature sensor and the iddle actuators. But if they dont throw up errors, there is no need to change it right now.

May be a check on the injection valves is a good thing at 75k miles, it is out of the maintenance scope and can cause heavy damage if faulty.

Spark plugs every 3 oil changes seems to be the rule, so stick with it. The coils will tell you soon how old they are, considering their cost, have a couple on stand by and wait it fails before changing it.
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post #3 of 16 Old 27th March 2018, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply ! Seems the worst part so far was accessing the 10 band clamps...fortunately I had a long flexible driver so it just took time but was not impossible.

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Originally Posted by Com6 View Post
If you are talking about the two return hoses to the cylinder head cover, it is made like this and intended to be unlocked from below (Norma quick clamp), unreachable though...
Yes, I cut them off as well as it did not appear that accessing the pop connector was very easy. One of them had some pinch marks on it from the previous owners attempt it seems, but apparently they gave up at this point on removing the plenums, lol.

I was not sure if I needed to apply some type of lubricant to the throttle movement points as there seem to be many. They make little squeaks when the throttles are moved my hand, but donít want to add anything that might disrupt the movement if it has been an issue in the past for anyone.

Thanks again for the tips, I think Iíll order some spark plugs and check the injectors as you said...most everything else looks really good under there right now.

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post #4 of 16 Old 27th March 2018, 05:33 PM
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I would replace the pair of purge valves/vaccum control valves while there. The valves are prone to go bad and when they do, you will have annoying Gas Cap light on the dashboard and simply replacing the gas cap will not fix the issue. I would hate to bust everything open again just to replace them later on.

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post #5 of 16 Old 27th March 2018, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, the ones below the center electrical wire tray...yes, looks like these are right there with the items moved out of the way. Thanks for the info !

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post #6 of 16 Old 27th March 2018, 08:48 PM
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You could consider the thermostat since itís right there. It will eventually go bad and stick open causing you P0128 codes on colder days.


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post #7 of 16 Old 28th March 2018, 12:35 AM
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post #8 of 16 Old 28th March 2018, 01:15 AM
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Clean the throttle bodies while your in there and lube the throttle shafts. As you know, it isn't that tough of a job to get to this point. If idle actuators go bad down the road, you'll have a better feel for the job.

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post #9 of 16 Old 28th March 2018, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfox1225 View Post
You could consider the thermostat since itís right there. It will eventually go bad and stick open causing you P0128 codes on colder days.
Thanks, yep I noticed the other day that it sounds like I have a idler pulley chirping so I need to do some front of the engine work as well...thinking on doing the thermostat at the same time as it is coming due as well based on my previous BMWís.

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post #10 of 16 Old 28th March 2018, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer14sl View Post
Clean the throttle bodies while your in there and lube the throttle shafts. As you know, it isn't that tough of a job to get to this point. If idle actuators go bad down the road, you'll have a better feel for the job.
Thanks, I was thinking to grease the movement points for the shafts as they squeak when I move the throttles by hand. All the linkages still feel smooth with no lash so that is a good thing.

I was debating on using Silglyde as it doesnít harden or stiffen over time. Think that will do it or is there something better for these movement points others have used?

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