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post #21 of 24 Old 4th May 2019, 09:01 AM
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All right, quick update:

In order to perform the PLDC adaptation, I performed the clutch master cylinder bleeding per ISTA procedure, and it start to leak a lot of hydraulic oil between the clutch and the engine (also the bleeding procedure obviously failed...) So I guess the clutch master cylinder is leaking and I'll have to replace it. Once it's done I believe I'll be able to
1- run and complete the master cylinder bleeding procedure
2- perform the PLDC adaptation
3- hopefully I should hear the system pumping

Bad news is I'll have to drop the entire gearbox to replace the Clutch MC... good news is: I was planning to replace the clutch and flywheel, so I'm going to take the opportunity to do it now at the same time!
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Last edited by pconil; 4th May 2019 at 09:04 AM.
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post #22 of 24 Old 4th May 2019, 01:21 PM
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Well good luck it's not that big of a job. I'm willing to bet the fork isn't on the pivot and the clutch pin ended up over extended.

You may want to consider fixing the sensor strip and replacing the actuator orings while the transmission is down. Since it looks like you're doing it on jack stands Firu things I'll suggest.

1) You can skip the special clutch alignment tool just use the plastic one from the kit. The key to it is make sure the clutch doesn't fall apart when installing it. The two disks and plates are balanced against each other(disk to disk, plate to plate). So you need to make sure they stay in sync. of course a smart person would mark them just in case

2) Remove the transmission oil cooler it's easier to remove the transmission without and it sit flatter on the trolly. The trans is heavy get a trans trolly jack and don't try to muscle it with a regular jack.

3)You need height if you plan on removing the transmission from under the car, the bell housing is fairly large.

4) Put it in neutral before pulling the battery or relay, sounds duh but since the car likes to be in gear when you shut it off and out of habit you'll do it, once you start you'll be like ****... I've done that twice already.

2001 E36/7 MRoadster
2001 E39 M5
2010 E60 M5
2008 E90 335xi

Last edited by Ferris; 4th May 2019 at 01:42 PM.
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post #23 of 24 Old 19th May 2019, 09:52 AM
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*Edit* moved it to "BMW M6/M5 E60 - E63 Clutch DIY + Transmission Removal" thread

Last edited by pconil; 19th May 2019 at 11:43 AM.
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post #24 of 24 Old 25th May 2019, 11:15 AM
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last update: The car is running ! I'm so relief

Basically these are the steps I've done once the Clutch+flywheel and the clutch master cylinder were replaced:

1- fill the SMG fluid reservoir with new fluid
2- run the pump with ISTA in the SMG "Quick tests" (procedure will reduce, then rebuild the pressure)
3- run the accumulator prepressure test
4 -run the master cylinder bleeding procedure
5- run the pump block bleeding procedure
6- run the clutch characteristic curve adaptation
7- at this point I've refilled the SMG fluid reservoir again before re-installing the exhaust system back
8- run the gearbox slipping point adaptation

Et voilŗ!

it feels so good, clutch is smooth as butter!
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smg , transmission fault

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