Well I'll start from the start
I initially had a problem with my m5 it would go into limp mode when you would press hard or drive hard
Turn the car of and back on out of limp mode
I had errors 27da and 27b2
I read up this has got to do with vacuum brake booster
Anyways I thought I would replace my throttle actuators
As when I removed the covers I could see just 1 actuator linkage moving on initial start up
So I took out actuators had a look at gears they were fine put car back together
And car went in constant limp mode at 4.5k with the usual symptons dsc failure start assist etc
So after this I went down the route of replacing not 1 but both actuators
And car still has the same fault
2 quick questions
1)what had I done to make the car go into constant limp mode
2)where do I go from here
I've attached new picture with the fault codes. https://youtu.be/159bENP_U7o
Here is a video to show you what happens when I give it some acceleration just bank 1 linkage moves
Also when I start the car I see the bank 1 linkage only moves a split second I read this is initial check on start up but bank 2 fails linkage doesn't move
Thanks in advance
1. Have you cleared the fault codes and then these came back? Or are these the original ones? If they are, clear them and see which come back.
2. 2B62 is camshaft sensor.
3. 2B22 - Throttle Valve Actuator Predrive Check Bank 2 (P161F Thottle valve actuator spring test malfunction during opening (Bank 2)) - see this JColley post
I've cleared faults when I put actuators back in first time but not cleared after replacing them do you have to clear codes after replacing them I read up there's no need dme resets itself
My opinion is that you should clear all fault codes when they haven't been read for a while, in order to see which are current. Then, it is good practice to clear them after completing the work to be able to tell which issues have been resolved - and which are still pending.
Also would a faulty camshaft sensor put the car into permanent limp mode if so why was it okay before I took the car apart all I've done is changed spark plugs and thermo stat put it back together and permanent limp mode grrr
Well i thought*BOTH*actuators, Gears upgraded to superior materials, all Mosfets replaced. Transistors & capacitors checked, Voltage regulators, microprocessor, serial Eprom tested or changed. with a lifetime warranty on the "gears" and lifetime on circuit boards
I thought rebuild would be changing the gears only
Well today I cleared the codes using inpa and I have only 1 code after clearing which is 2b62 I believe it's the Camshaft position sensor part numver 13627834490 just a quick few questions how many camshaft sensors does this car have and which one should I be changing or testing before changing
Regards
So I had someone great called Chris lagaga help me out I read my codes and sent him the file
And he got back to me with this
Thank God I didn't buy a camshaft sensor.
Next up his where do I go from here
Have I maybe damaged some wiring while taking out and putting back in
If so how could I get to the bottom of this I will try swapping over the actuators tommorow the company which rebuilt them are adamant they are road tested before sending them out which mines where regardless I will be swapping them over tommorow to see if the fault follows banks any help in the mean time will be great
Once again big thanks to Ferris for helping me so far
Regards
The Error code 2B62 is actually the ambient air sensor, it's not a big deal:
2B62 Umgebungstemperatursensor
Error counter:*** 1
Logistic counter: 40
** Mileage******************************** 143040**** km
** Batteriespannung KL87********************** 14.00 Volt
** Motorzustand******************************* LLOKS 0-n
** Zustand Fahrzeug************************* Notlauf 0-n
** Ersatzwert der Umgebungstemperatur********* 49.40* °C
** Kurzschluss nach Masse
** Testbedingungen erfüllt
** Fehler momentan vorhanden, noch nicht OBD-entprellt
** Fehler verursacht kein Aufleuchten der Warnlampe (MIL)
The actually problem you're having is it can't talk to the Bank 2 throttle actuator over the can bus. Which explains why you're in limp mode, emergency mode and why the valves aren't moving:
CDC0 Drosselklappensteller CAN-Nachricht Bank 2
U1151 Kommunikationsverlust mit Drosselklappensteller (Bank 2)
Error counter:*** 1
Logistic counter: 40
** Mileage******************************** 143040**** km
** Motordrehzahl******************************* 0.00 U/min
** Motorzustand************************* Motor steht 0-n
** Motortemperatur**************************** 88.20* °C
** Batteriespannung KL87********************** 12.60 Volt
** Timeout
** Testbedingungen erfüllt
** Fehler momentan vorhanden, OBD-entprellt
** Fehler wuerde das Aufleuchten der Warnlampe (MIL) verursachen
Error code: CD C0 E4 D1 51 01 28 45 D8 00 00 00 01 0E 1E 00
*********** 7E
-------------------------------------------------------------
The first thing I'd do is switch the two actuators clear the codes and check them again if it moved to bank 1 it's the throttle actuator. If it doesn't it's probably the wiring on bank 2.
So today I swapped over the actuators and see on start up still only bank 1 linkage moves bank 2 still doesn't move have tested the actuator connectors both are getting voltage through them
I haven't connected all the plenum etc back up yet as I want to get to the bottom of this issue before hand
Questions I have is
if it was actuator why still does only bank 1 linkage move on pre check I have moved both linkages with hand and they seem fine like throttles spring back close
Sometimes feels like I'm talking to myself on this thread so come on m5 community chip in and help me get my beast back on the road
So I'll start from the start
I had intermittent issue on my bmw e60 m5 where when I would drive hard in top rpms she would go into limp mode
Pull over restart car after taking key out limp mode gone
Checked with diagnostics would only get 2 other codes reletad to secondary vacuum nothing for actuators
But my symptoms I was getting were throttle related
So I thought I would go ahead try and replace the gears in my actuators I bought replacement gears
So I went ahead to work on the car and changed my 10 spark plugs and changed my thermostat and at this time was planning or replacing gears at this point I realised I didn't have the sleeves for gears so I just turned gears around and popped back into car after putting her back together I started the car back up
At this point realised car was in limp mode tried resetting codes and was getting 2 codes 1 for camshaft sensor and other for throttle on bank 2 pre drive check
At this point I sent both actuators to a very well known company who specialise in these they replace everything upgrade gears everything on board mosfets etc then test them on a running m6
They offer lifetime guarantee so very confident on there work
Anyways at this point I got my actuators back and replaced them I see that still bank 2 linkage on throttle actuators still doesn't move on ignition/start up
I read codes again and got told that it's basically The reason it's in limp mode is it can't communicate to the actuator so that's limp mode. I swapped the actuators over problem remained on bank 2.
I think somewhere I have done something but not sure what cars2 basically in constant limp mode with all the usual faults on idrive dsc dbc start assist etc
Any help or guidance what could be at fault
Regards
Still no reply from any gurus out there i expected this forum to be better than this having been on the m3cutters forum for several years and 3 vag forums seems like either nobody can help but regardless it's gave me plenty push to solve my issue and get my beast back on the road in my time I have helped several people I haven't owned a vag for 4 years yet still go on to help people if I can shame on you bmw people or might be me having higher expections
Many thanks for all the help
This weekend I will strip all the car down and get to the bottom of my problem hopefully
And like many hundreds of threads here I will vanish into space and you all know the reasons so 1 day someone will have the same issue and be in the same situation as me but me being me I know I'll still come on here and help if I can
I am on the cutters forum from 9 years and have owned 2 m3s and a m4 ran into hundreds off issues over the years but never been left hanging
Ps rant over[emoji8]
I'm no guru and I have basically no throttle actuator experience but If you swapped actuators and you still have the same issue on the same bank than the actuators themselves can be ruled out. My only suggestion is to check all wiring and grounds.
Sorry I can't be of more help. Usually if I don't know exactly what I'm talking about I wouldn't comment but I know how it feels to need a little feedback even if it's not necessarily useful.
So there are some decent blokes on here many thank for taking the time to reply all wiring grounds have already been tested I will be testing to read resistance from dme to actuator 2 connector to rule wiring issue out
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