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E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion 2005- Advertiser's Forum

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post #21 of 23 Old 28th September 2016, 06:48 AM
Hasan Shaikh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJmattos1 View Post
On my current car i wait till the oil pressure in the system is at 1.5 bar with the engine around 1000 RPM

Enviado de meu XT1058 usando Tapatalk

Indeed. Oil pressure gauge combined with oil temp gauge is the best indicator.

Most porsche cars come with both.
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post #22 of 23 Old 28th September 2016, 10:21 AM
Fiftytwoeighty
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Originally Posted by Hasan Shaikh View Post
I believe that there is a misunderstanding here. When most people say, "Warm up the car", they are not asking you to sit in the car and wait for the oil temp to rise.

What they mean don't rev the car much and don't put a lot of load on it. There is a big difference in revving to 3000 rpm slowly and revving to 3000 rpm at high load.
Hasan speaks the truth!

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s85 + (afterthought) 6mt =162,000 miles with no RCOD and counting ...just saying...

2007 Dinan S2 e60 m5 6MT Interlagos Blue; DINAN 3.91 Exploded @8x,xxx ; Performance Gearing 3.91 LSD 3 clutch, 30/50 ramps, R&P polished ; ClutchMasters FX350 clutch and LTW single mass FW @157,000 miles, RPi Oil Cooler/Scoops; DINAN High Flow Air Mass Meter/Intake, DINAN TBs, DINAN pulley, DINAN strut, DINAN Monoballs, FastAttack Tune, w/Kung Fu grip!, Einhorn Industries Race Jedders, track pipe, and x-pipe; DINAN Section 3, DINAN LTW 19x9 ET18, 19x10 ET25, Michelin PS4S 275/35/19 and 305/30/19, Macht Schnell 15mm spacers (front); FERODO FRP3000H race pads; StopTech BBK 6/4 380mm/35mm x 380mm/32mm w/SS lines; RDSport F/R sways; MCS 2WNR motorsport coilover, -2.0/-2.5 F/R camber; z3 1.9L SSK, with f10 shifter; F/R G1W-H; Uniden R1, remote ALP 2Rx:1Tx, F/R NetRadar DSP, w/GPS and BT. SprintBooster v3; Euro MDM and DSC off. Fluids: Motul 7100 4T 10w60, Redline ShockProof Lightweight 75w140, Castrol SRF, Unicorn Jizz and Wolfpack Blood; Rod bearings replaced at 84,000 and 150,000 miles!!!

1988 e28 m5 STROKER 420bhp 91 octane(Paul Burke s38b39); VAC LTW flywheel; MegaSquirt G2 DME; Nuke Performance fuel rail and pressure regulator, Carbon Fiber CSL intake; Lifeline Zero 360 FIA 3.0kg Novec fire suppression; Cool Shirt Pro Air/Water system; Euro RestoMod track car: caged, 6 point Schroth FIA harness, FIA Sparco Ergo & Sabelt GT-160 seats...AC/heater, interior, sunroof, rear seat delete; Euro Headers, dump valve, and race cats; CAE Ultra shifter; custom Ground Control Coilovers/camber plates; Mason Engineering front/rear strut bars; Brembo 6/4 BBK; 17x9 BBS Style 42 w/Michelin Cup 2; undergoing Euro restoration, building the e28 CSL ///Motorsport never built. 5.71lbs/hp

Not-spec e30 racercar!!! Fully caged for wheel 2 wheel racing

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2008 Audi A3 S-Line Quattro w/flappy paddles (Mammoth Mountain Commuter)
2000 e39 m5 TiAg (Gone, but not forgotten) sold 7/2014.

The Indys that I trust for all my Beasts' needs: oceansidemotorsports.com my local physician for service
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einhornindustires because WolfPack!

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post #23 of 23 Old 3rd October 2016, 08:10 AM
Way2fast
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I have had my car since Dec 2005. I have 123K miles on it. I replaced the SMG and clutch at 88K miles. I replaced the bearings at 112K miles. I do not let my car warm up in the morning. If you put in drive mode the car will shift without going over in RPMs until it warms up. If you have the heads up display and put it in M mode the rpm gauge show what color to shift at. I would advise having the bearings done for $2K just as a preventive measure

Sam Burg

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2006 M5 (90K miles as of 11/13)
2001 Porsche Turbo (sold)
1955 LT55 Replica (La Carrera Panamericana race car) Sold
2003 BMW K1200LT w/ Armec sidecar
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1985 BMW K100RT
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2007 F430 Spider
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2014 Mercedes C250 (daughters car)
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