Another Throttle Actuator Failure/Tear Down/Attempted Repair - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #11 of 52 Old 31st July 2016, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
Niart906
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More bad news to report, I baked the bad board from my failed actuator but it didn't remedy the issue. I knew it was a long shot but it was free to try, so I had nothing to lose. Unfortunately, my car is now failing pre drive checks for both banks. Is it possible one of these codes is being thrown simply because of the one bad actuator? I swapped them side to side with no change, I also unplugged them one by one and read the subsequent codes to ensure it wasn't a connection issue.



I have one new throttle actuator set to arrive on Tuesday, I'm praying I only have one that's failed and the code for the other is sympathetic to the failed one.

2013 F30 335 Estoril Blau II/Black (Current)
2006 E60 M5 Silbergrau Metallic/Indianapolis Red (Sold)

Last edited by Niart906; 31st July 2016 at 08:25 PM.
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post #12 of 52 Old 1st August 2016, 01:46 AM
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Noop. They usually go in pairs or shortly after one another. What are the NEW codes? Clear them first to be sure.
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post #13 of 52 Old 1st August 2016, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt7085 View Post
Noop. They usually go in pairs or shortly after one another. What are the NEW codes? Clear them first to be sure.
Figures they go in pairs. I've cleared the codes multiple times after swapping the actuators bank to bank, but I'm still getting both actuator codes. Not sure offhand which ones specifcally, but I'll report back.

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2006 E60 M5 Silbergrau Metallic/Indianapolis Red (Sold)
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post #14 of 52 Old 2nd August 2016, 03:40 AM
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Another Throttle Actuator Failure/Tear Down/Attempted Repair

Not always. But they wear at the same rate. So it is very likely. Consider yourself lucky. Swap it all at once instead of doing it all over him in a few weeks. Of course it cost a bit. But this car ain't cheap to maintain.

Last edited by rt7085; 2nd August 2016 at 03:40 AM.
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post #15 of 52 Old 2nd August 2016, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Just received my new actuator, plugged it in and now I only have one bank failing a pre start check again. Looks like I'll be ordering another new actuator to match.

The codes I've been getting are:
-2B21 Throttle Valve Actuator Pre-Drive Check Bank 1
-2B22 Throttle Valve Actuator Pre-Drive Check Bank 2
-2B57 Motor Emergency Program

The DSC module also threw a code related to the Limp Mode. But I'm assuming that will become clearable once both banks pass their pre-drive checks.

Oh and the throttle actuator test in INPA is pretty much worthless. Watching the new actuator go through it's full range of motion was pretty neat, but the failed actuator doesn't budge. And INPA just says "System load complete run through and error recognized". No sh!t sherlock. Hahaha

2013 F30 335 Estoril Blau II/Black (Current)
2006 E60 M5 Silbergrau Metallic/Indianapolis Red (Sold)

Last edited by Niart906; 3rd August 2016 at 12:19 AM.
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post #16 of 52 Old 3rd August 2016, 01:57 AM
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You get a DSC error because the TA are part of the brake vacuum assist in case the vacuum assist pump fails. The DME can shut down a whole bank and close the TA to turn it into a giant vacuum pump to ensure your brake power persists. Yes, when your TA are health this DSC error goes away.
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post #17 of 52 Old 3rd August 2016, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt7085 View Post
You get a DSC error because the TA are part of the brake vacuum assist in case the vacuum assist pump fails. The DME can shut down a whole bank and close the TA to turn it into a giant vacuum pump to ensure your brake power persists. Yes, when your TA are health this DSC error goes away.
Makes sense, thanks for the explanation.

Has anyone had issues with their TA's due to low voltage? Because my car has been sitting for a few months now, I just got a low battery voltage warning on the cluster. And ever since then my one good working actuator is failing it's pre drive check. Has anyone tried swapping out the voltage regulators on the TA board?

I charged the battery overnight so I'm going to try again today and see if I can coax some life into that actuator.

2013 F30 335 Estoril Blau II/Black (Current)
2006 E60 M5 Silbergrau Metallic/Indianapolis Red (Sold)
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post #18 of 52 Old 3rd August 2016, 04:27 PM
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post #19 of 52 Old 3rd August 2016, 06:52 PM
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Another Throttle Actuator Failure/Tear Down/Attempted Repair

Likely not. There are two voltage regulators. One for the logic which is a 5V regulator with a reset. And a separate one (for redundancy) for the throttle position sensor. Everything else is battery referenced. I believe the TA stops working below 8V. Your car won't crank at 8V anyways. The micro is still working at that point, but it refuses to control the H bridge below that voltage. Aside from this there is ground referenced main switch that shuts off the H bridge all together.

Last edited by rt7085; 3rd August 2016 at 06:53 PM.
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post #20 of 52 Old 4th August 2016, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt7085 View Post
Likely not. There are two voltage regulators. One for the logic which is a 5V regulator with a reset. And a separate one (for redundancy) for the throttle position sensor. Everything else is battery referenced. I believe the TA stops working below 8V. Your car won't crank at 8V anyways. The micro is still working at that point, but it refuses to control the H bridge below that voltage. Aside from this there is ground referenced main switch that shuts off the H bridge all together.
Sounds like my voltage regulator is fine. My battery was only down to 11.5 volts when it threw the 2nd failed actuator code.

2013 F30 335 Estoril Blau II/Black (Current)
2006 E60 M5 Silbergrau Metallic/Indianapolis Red (Sold)
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