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post #1 of 30 Old 15th June 2016, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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SMG Pump Components & Hydraulic / Bleeding procedure.

Hi all,

I would like to check my SMG Hydraulic Fluid level and bleed the system on my 2007 M5. I've been looking around for a DIY on this or any talk about doing this process, but haven't found anything...

First - Seems that the term SMG Pump and SMG Motor are used interchangeably... Also, many people have asked where the heck do we fill and check the SMG Hydraulic Fluid? Seems like a simple question, yet I haven't found a clear answer... I seriously believe some think that it's the Power Steering reservoir, just because the two use the same CHF11S fluid!

I attached what I believe to be a good side view picture of the SMG Hydraulic Pump System. I labeled each component based on my understanding from reading several threads. Please correct me if I mislabeled something so that it will help any newcomers like myself!

1 - SMG Hyd. Fluid Reservoir Tank with Vent on top?
2 - SMG Hyd. Pump Motor?
3 - SMG Hyd. Pump?
4 - SMG Hyd. Pump Block?
5 - SMG Hyd. Pump Solenoid?

Are the Fill and Drain plugs correct?

Second - Where can I find the correct procedure to top off the SMG Hydraulic Fluid Level and Bleed the system to be free from any air? Assuming I need to add Fluid, should I drain all old Fluid out instead of topping off with new? I have DISv57 on my laptop now.
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Last edited by Racer14sl; 15th June 2016 at 06:49 PM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 15th June 2016, 06:59 PM
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1- correct. fill hole is the large allen head plastic plug on the right underneath the word vernt
2- correct
3- hydraulic accumulator
4- correct
5- clutch control valve

drain label- no, that is amounting bolt. On the bottom of the pump block there is an allen head plug that holds the discharge check valve in place. Loosen the allen several turns (do *not* remove completely) and run the pump motor to build up pressure. This unseats the check valve cartridge to allow fluid to drain out. This can be done to pump down the reservoir and empty the contents.
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post #3 of 30 Old 15th June 2016, 07:24 PM
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post #4 of 30 Old 15th June 2016, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcolley View Post
drain label- no, that is amounting bolt. On the bottom of the pump block there is an allen head plug that holds the discharge check valve in place. Loosen the allen several turns (do *not* remove completely) and run the pump motor to build up pressure. This unseats the check valve cartridge to allow fluid to drain out. This can be done to pump down the reservoir and empty the contents.
OK thanks for the clarification @jcolley . Now more questions of course...

IF I drain all contents and add new, how much should I add into the Reservoir?

How do I go about checking the current Reservoir Fluid Level and know how much to add if needed?

Do I need to bleed the system hydraulic pressure off before removing the Reservoir fill plug to top off?
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post #5 of 30 Old 16th June 2016, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer14sl View Post
OK thanks for the clarification @jcolley . Now more questions of course...

IF I drain all contents and add new, how much should I add into the Reservoir?

How do I go about checking the current Reservoir Fluid Level and know how much to add if needed?

Do I need to bleed the system hydraulic pressure off before removing the Reservoir fill plug to top off?
Just fill until it comes out the drain...Do not have to reduce the pressure before removing the fill plug for a top off.
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post #6 of 30 Old 23rd June 2016, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5soko View Post
Just fill until it comes out the drain...Do not have to reduce the pressure before removing the fill plug for a top off.

Ok, that's straight forward enough... So if I want to do the bleeding procedures, are these the following steps to take?


1. Make sure reservoir is full of hydraulic fluid (starts to come out fill hole)
2. Open allen head Block Drain/Check Valve Screw (do not remove)
3. Activate SMG Pump Motor using DIS
4. De-activate SMG Pump Motor once fluid starts to drain out.
5. Tighten up allen head Block Drain/Check Valve Screw
6. Refill the reservoir until fluid starts to come out fill hole.


Is this it? @jcolley - I read in one of your older posts where it looks like you mention that we need to re-run the bleeding procedure for the block? Why is that? And also perform a bleeding procedure for the actuating valves?
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post #7 of 30 Old 24th June 2016, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer14sl View Post
Ok, that's straight forward enough... So if I want to do the bleeding procedures, are these the following steps to take?


1. Make sure reservoir is full of hydraulic fluid (starts to come out fill hole)
2. Open allen head Block Drain/Check Valve Screw (do not remove)
3. Activate SMG Pump Motor using DIS
4. De-activate SMG Pump Motor once fluid starts to drain out.
5. Tighten up allen head Block Drain/Check Valve Screw
6. Refill the reservoir until fluid starts to come out fill hole.


Is this it? @jcolley - I read in one of your older posts where it looks like you mention that we need to re-run the bleeding procedure for the block? Why is that? And also perform a bleeding procedure for the actuating valves?
-Add fluid
-Honestly i would just perform the service function for the bleeding of the clutch slave in DIS/INPA (see below)...
-check and add fluid

For a pump change, bmw SIB states:
Important:
It is not required to perform a test module for bleeding of the actuator block, even DIS/GT1 recommends
it.
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post #8 of 30 Old 24th June 2016, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer14sl View Post
Ok, that's straight forward enough... So if I want to do the bleeding procedures, are these the following steps to take?


1. Make sure reservoir is full of hydraulic fluid (starts to come out fill hole)
2. Open allen head Block Drain/Check Valve Screw (do not remove)
3. Activate SMG Pump Motor using DIS
4. De-activate SMG Pump Motor once fluid starts to drain out.
5. Tighten up allen head Block Drain/Check Valve Screw
6. Refill the reservoir until fluid starts to come out fill hole.


Is this it? @jcolley - I read in one of your older posts where it looks like you mention that we need to re-run the bleeding procedure for the block? Why is that? And also perform a bleeding procedure for the actuating valves?
All correct. Replace the crush washer under the bottom drain. This bolt isn't so much a primary high pressure boundary, but the shape of it pushes the check valve up into place and holds it there. When you back it off and run the pump, discharge pressure build up and "pops" the check valve assembly out. This is why you don't remove the plug completely.

Once the discharge side of the hydraulic system has been opened at all, you risk introduction of air into it. This result in spongy operation due to introduction of compressible medium (air) into what is supposed to be a (relatively) non-compressible volume (fluid) and the SMG will not shift aor clutch properly. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder first as its the lower point in the system and the air will move to the upper block. Venting the upper block then "tries" to force the air to go downhill back into the reservoir.
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post #9 of 30 Old 24th June 2016, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5soko View Post
-Add fluid
-Honestly i would just perform the service function for the bleeding of the clutch slave in DIS/INPA (see below)...
-check and add fluid

For a pump change, bmw SIB states:
Important:
It is not required to perform a test module for bleeding of the actuator block, even DIS/GT1 recommends
it.
Does DIS tell us to loosen the discharge bolt before running the bleed test as @jcolley is stating?
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post #10 of 30 Old 24th June 2016, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer14sl View Post
Does DIS tell us to loosen the discharge bolt before running the bleed test as @jcolley is stating?
Anything Jcolley says is correct or more correct then bmw themselves lol believe me

But the loosening if the bleed bolt on the bottom of the block is only for the bleeding of the block... The slave cylinder bleeding is all done via DIS, and in SIB's and DIS, bmw states when changing out the electric pump that bleeding the block is not necessary.. Otherwise any other repairs it is..
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