E60 M5 Connecting Rod Bearings - Which ones to buy? - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 24 Old 13th June 2016, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
dcer10
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E60 M5 Connecting Rod Bearings - Which ones to buy?

I have decided to bite the bullet and get my connecting rod bearings replaced. I have a 2005 E60 M5 with 124,000kms on the clock. Been reading up on the topic, which I know has been covered extensively other than these three things (please point me in the right direction if I have missed the post).

1) I am not sure which connecting rod bearings to buy. There seems to be several choices. I have narrowed it down to:

a) seem to cover all of the bases. Not sure if anyone has used them before?

BE Bearings - Improved Connecting Rod Bearings Set for BMW E60 M5 S85 Engine - OUT OF STOCK : Bimmerzone.com

b) seem to be just OEM bearings in a kit? If so thats just potentially deferring the problem.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-overhaul-kit/

c) I'm not sure about WRT the 'treatment'

WPC - Surface Treated Rod Bearings - BMW E60 M5 (S85) - Lang Racing Development

I assume those ones need these rod bolts?

Lang Racing - Carrillo Rod Bolt Kit for BMW E60 M5 S85 - Lang Racing Development

d) which are also treated

https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...v10-p2949.aspx

My BMW mechanic has been kind enough to let me pick which ever ones I would like to get. Can anyone recommend which to buy based on actual experience? I am leaning towards a)

2) What's the go with rod bolts? I assume that any of the bearings would work with new OEM bolts? Are there better bolts (like the ones with c) that are worth getting?

3) What should I be providing to my mechanic to get the job done (eg what should he already have?). By the look of it, you need the following (from Turner Motor Sport)

Rod bearings
- upper bearings
- ower bearings
- 11247834522, connecting rod bolts
- Red Line engine assembly lube

Oil Pan
- 11137836361, oil pan gasket
- 07119905485, oil pan screws (required by BMW)
- 07129905600, oil pan screws (required by BMW)
- 11137836568, oil pan screws
- 07119963129, seal washers
- 11417836233, auxiliary oil pump gaskets
- 11121304174, oil pickup tube o-ring

Should I be supplying all of this, or is this stuff that the mechanic should have one hand? Its an indy shop. Lastly should I have the vanos high pressure line done at the same time?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 24 Old 13th June 2016, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcer10 View Post
I have decided to bite the bullet and get my connecting rod bearings replaced. I have a 2005 E60 M5 with 124,000kms on the clock. Been reading up on the topic, which I know has been covered extensively other than these three things (please point me in the right direction if I have missed the post).

1) I am not sure which connecting rod bearings to buy. There seems to be several choices. I have narrowed it down to:

a) seem to cover all of the bases. Not sure if anyone has used them before?

BE Bearings - Improved Connecting Rod Bearings Set for BMW E60 M5 S85 Engine - OUT OF STOCK : Bimmerzone.com

b) seem to be just OEM bearings in a kit? If so thats just potentially deferring the problem.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-overhaul-kit/

c) I'm not sure about WRT the 'treatment'

WPC - Surface Treated Rod Bearings - BMW E60 M5 (S85) - Lang Racing Development

I assume those ones need these rod bolts?

Lang Racing - Carrillo Rod Bolt Kit for BMW E60 M5 S85 - Lang Racing Development

d) which are also treated

https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...v10-p2949.aspx

My BMW mechanic has been kind enough to let me pick which ever ones I would like to get. Can anyone recommend which to buy based on actual experience? I am leaning towards a)

2) What's the go with rod bolts? I assume that any of the bearings would work with new OEM bolts? Are there better bolts (like the ones with c) that are worth getting?

3) What should I be providing to my mechanic to get the job done (eg what should he already have?). By the look of it, you need the following (from Turner Motor Sport)

Rod bearings
- upper bearings
- ower bearings
- 11247834522, connecting rod bolts
- Red Line engine assembly lube

Oil Pan
- 11137836361, oil pan gasket
- 07119905485, oil pan screws (required by BMW)
- 07129905600, oil pan screws (required by BMW)
- 11137836568, oil pan screws
- 07119963129, seal washers
- 11417836233, auxiliary oil pump gaskets
- 11121304174, oil pickup tube o-ring

Should I be supplying all of this, or is this stuff that the mechanic should have one hand? Its an indy shop. Lastly should I have the vanos high pressure line done at the same time?

Thanks in advance.
this is where i bought everything needed

Fast Attack Motorsports

imo buy be bearings
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post #3 of 24 Old 13th June 2016, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcer10 View Post
Can anyone recommend which to buy based on actual experience? I am leaning towards a)
The only way to get actual experience is to change your bearings, wait 60k miles and then change them again. We don't have a meaningful number of people who've done that yet.

I'd stick with OEM rod bolts, personally - I don't think there's any info out there to suggest that they're part of the problem. Maybe upgrade if you're going for a big power hike and replacing the rods themselves?

My indy wanted me to buy the non-standard parts myself (ie VAC bearings), but was happy to source all the standard stuff.

At the end of the day... I'm not going to assume that the VAC bearings are a solution. I'll keep changing bearings every 60k miles as long as I own the car.
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post #4 of 24 Old 13th June 2016, 04:10 PM
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Be sure to order other things for replacement since they will be in there the only item you could skimp on would be the VANOS gear update if you are going to spend the money you might as well upgrade her as much as possible.

Check out this link on the differences between years - you have a pre-LCI like I do (07 verses your 06) look at the upgrades to the 08 - 10 - I went ahead and upgraded everything I could while they were in there including sourcing an OEM dual drain plug oil pan. I originally ordered the ARP bolts as well but Jim AKA Jcolley had them on back order and stated basically the same thing another posted said unless you are building a 750 plus HP beast stock bolts work fine - if you are making this investment in your M then you are planning to keep her for a while put as much as you can in it since it is a labor intensive job.

Look at differences here: https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...out-years.html

If your M is not your daily and you can afford to be without her you have a few options -

1. have them drop your oil pan and have a local machine shop cut and weld a new bung plug for the dual drain spot
2. source an OEM dual drain plug from an 08 - 10
3. buy my single drain plug for cheap - they retail for 1200 to 1500 new find them on ebay from 600 - 800 which is absurd - 250.00 for mine - there are three on ebay now all single drain for 800 to 900 crazy.

Looks like fastattack is out of bearings until mid-july giving you more time to acquire the remaining pieces - if I were you I would contact Jim at fast attack as these go real fast - get your name in and pay - he will ship super fast once they come in ....... also. just order everything you need from one place except oil pan ....... I took an image of fastattack page for stuff to be sure to order .......

also, here are links to my reviews so you can see what was done and cost - good luck the job isnt small but priceless in terms of piece of mind -

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...ve-review.html
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post #5 of 24 Old 13th June 2016, 04:11 PM
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post #6 of 24 Old 14th June 2016, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the information everyone.

The additional parts suggested sound good, but certainly are a lot more money, and no doubt a lot more labor on top of what is already a large job (this is just a part of a large set of repairs needed on the car, which I have only just bought). Now I know those other things should be done, I can't feel satisfied that the motor will be 'in the clear' if they are ignored,

I will order the BE bearings from fast attack.
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post #7 of 24 Old 14th June 2016, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcer10 View Post
Thanks for all the information everyone.

The additional parts suggested sound good, but certainly are a lot more money, and no doubt a lot more labor on top of what is already a large job (this is just a part of a large set of repairs needed on the car, which I have only just bought). Now I know those other things should be done, I can't feel satisfied that the motor will be 'in the clear' if they are ignored,

I will order the BE bearings from fast attack.
12 - 15 hrs total labor for everything .... if you open the bottom up might as well fix it all and upgrade ....... peace of mind is really priceless ..... good luck with job!
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post #8 of 24 Old 14th June 2016, 01:22 PM
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12 - 15 hrs total labor for everything .... if you open the bottom up might as well fix it all and upgrade ....... peace of mind is really priceless ..... good luck with job!
That's quite an optimistic estimate on labour, no? I was under the impression that 30 hours needed - taking your time, over a period of a week.
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post #9 of 24 Old 14th June 2016, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcer10 View Post
BE Bearings - Improved Connecting Rod Bearings Set for BMW E60 M5 S85 Engine - OUT OF STOCK : Bimmerzone.com


I assume those ones need these rod bolts?

Lang Racing - Carrillo Rod Bolt Kit for BMW E60 M5 S85 - Lang Racing Development


Rod bearings
- upper bearings
- ower bearings
- 11247834522, connecting rod bolts
- Red Line engine assembly lube

Oil Pan
- 11137836361, oil pan gasket
- 07119905485, oil pan screws (required by BMW)
- 07129905600, oil pan screws (required by BMW)
- 11137836568, oil pan screws
- 07119963129, seal washers
- 11417836233, auxiliary oil pump gaskets
- 11121304174, oil pickup tube o-ring

Should I be supplying all of this, or is this stuff that the mechanic should have one hand? Its an indy shop. Lastly should I have the vanos high pressure line done at the same time?

Thanks in advance.
When I do mine, it will be the BE Bearings because of the fact that they were Clevite-designed to have the proper spacing / gap for 10W60 oi. However, I do recognize that this does NOT mean trouble free motoring - there could as of yet be unintended consequences to using these.

I wonder what the difference is between the new ARP bolt and the Carrillo bolt? Both need some kind of special anti-seize / lube, I'm guessing. I like the idea of a simple torque procedure rather than the complicated Marvello the Magician-BMW way - but the caveat is that these other bolts do not distort the rod caps to less than perfect circles. One hopes that they've tested the torque with proper measurement at installation.
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post #10 of 24 Old 14th June 2016, 02:34 PM
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That's quite an optimistic estimate on labour, no? I was under the impression that 30 hours needed - taking your time, over a period of a week.
If you are doing the work maybe .... IDK ...... for something like this I am not turning a wrench on my car .... as a matter of fact even though I grew up with a German Car Specialist Father - turned wrenches almost his whole life I don't really turn wrenches on my car ..... so if you are doing it in your garage maybe ......

Jcolley with FastAttack can do it in 8 - 10 hrs since he has done so many of them its like second nature at this point - I remember reading around the same estimate from him as well (roughly) ...... if you read my review I gave a link on my mechanic quoted 12 hours for bearings he did everything I wanted for:

Link: https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...ve-review.html

Plus there is another link in that thread back to original questions and pricing from different places ......

Chris my mechanic originally quoted:

12 - 15 hrs for bearings and parts install

1.5 hrs front suspension

All fluids flushed and filled - coolant, power steering, brake, rear diff and SMG service hydraulic/trans

Parts installed:

1. Meyle HD sway bar link x2, lower control arm x2, thrust rod x2, tie rod x2 - G3 sourced parts $660.00
2. new to me OEM dual drain plug oil pan $300 + $200 shipping from Australia
3. High pressure vanos line $145.00 fast attack motorsports
4. improved OEM oil piston squirters fast attack motorsports
5. BE bearings $734.00 fast attack motorsports
6. oil chain tensioner refresh kit $45.00 fast attack motorsports

Total spent $5,044.00 / $1,400.00 fast attack / $3145.00 G3 Automotive total parts $795.50, total labor $2,113.27

Dropped her off late Monday - the shop pulled it in over night and let the oil drain .... started on her Tuesday morning and I picked her back up 1st thing Thursday Morning - would have been Wednesday evening but had problems with the alignment machine and lift clearance after new tire install and front suspension pieces.
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