Is RTV ok for engine block and bed plate? - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #11 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 06:17 PM
jcolley
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Also, it's kind of a pain in an engine stand when you remove the bedplate if you used two of its transmission mounting bolt holes for your stand.

You can use a 2x4 cut to correct length from the runner leg of the stand up into the "v" of the engine near the front for support when you unbolt the two rear stand mounting bolts from the bedplate. This way your block is still mobile with the stand.
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post #12 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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its all coming apart and getting rebuilt, I agree and for the sake of a couple of weekends labour its not worth checking evrything.
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post #13 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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yeh, i know, good idea, I have just got it on my engine crain with the straps bolted to the heads underneath and then a chain bolted to the engine mount bolt in the upper block.
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post #14 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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post #15 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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just checked the bolts from the new engine and they have the circlips on , checked the bolts from my old engine and they also have the circlips on. ???
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post #16 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by M5v10man View Post
just checked the bolts from the new engine and they have the circlips on , checked the bolts from my old engine and they also have the circlips on. ???
How the crap did you get those out?
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post #17 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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I just pulled them out with my fingers. I did the same on my blown engine when i stripped it down they just pulled out. Should then be a permanent fixture?
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post #18 of 20 Old 9th October 2015, 09:45 PM
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I just pulled them out with my fingers. I did the same on my blown engine when i stripped it down they just pulled out. Should then be a permanent fixture?
The circlips are supposed to be large enough that you can only loosen the fitment bolt a couple of turns before encountering significant resistance. Once all the main bolts and perimeter bolts are removed, you then loosen the fitment bolts a couple of turns at a time in a back and forth pattern to jack the bedplate apart from the block. If you forced the fitment bolts out using pneumatics, you may not have noticed the additional resistance, but the circlip does look smaller. I'll take a picture when get home of the one I'm rebuilding right now. This is not really spelled out in TIS at all.
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post #19 of 20 Old 12th October 2015, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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both engines 2005 and 2006 had both the same bolts, so i would presume this maybe a european/usa difference?
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post #20 of 20 Old 29th January 2018, 09:59 PM
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Hello guys. How fast this compound should cure? I used same compound and primer, injected it into the block with same tool 2 days ago and it still doesnt cure( I live in Ca so outside temperature seems perfect.

Any thoughts appreciated!!!
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