DIY: 2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
Tottifan
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2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement

Thanks to everyone who continues to submit DIY's for the E60 M5 - I would be lost without these forums.

I just replaced the battery on my 2008 E60 M5 (10/2007 build) and figured I would share my experience and pictures.

My car had a BMW part # S61 21 6 919 342 battery in it, which is a 12V 90Ah 900A 160RC 900CCA. The battery has a black case, and after doing some research here I found that the best replacement that was readily available to me was a Duralast Platinum H8-AGM from my local Auto Zone.

There are tons of posts about which batteries to use, whether to reprogram or not, etc. I read them all and decided I would simply pop in the H8-AGM and not reprogram.

Please note that I am not a professional - just an enthusiast with a camera. Do your own research before attempting any of this.

My original battery:
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7523.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7508.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7509.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7510.jpg

Here is the new battery:
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7515.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7517.jpg


Tools required:
- Gloves
- 13mm and 10mm socket
- Pick (optional, but handy for the vent tube cover)

What I did:
1. Turn on car, open window, unlock doors, shut off car. I read something about not letting the car go to sleep, so I started working right after shutting off the car.
2. Remove trunk carpeting/floor (our battery is where the spare would be, not on the side of the trunk like other E60's I have seen) to expose battery.
3. Remove the battery brace, a metal bar that holds it in place. There is a small plastic wire organizer that easily unsnaps to move the wires attached to the brace.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7521.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7522.jpg


4. Completely unscrew and then remove the negative (black) terminal first, and cover it with plastic.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7525.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7526.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7527.jpg


5. Pop open the red plastic cover on the positive (red) terminal, completely unscrew it and remove it from the battery. It moves up and out of the way easily.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7528.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7530.jpg


6. Remove the vent tube on the driver's side of the battery. It pops out easily, just wiggle it back and forth.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7531.jpg


7. Pull out the battery. The styrofoam around the battery will travel with it a bit, so be ready to just carefully work the battery out.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7532.jpg


8. Use a pick or something similar to carefully remove the vent tube cover on the original battery and place it in the same spot on your new battery (the H8-AGM has two vent tube holes, but the car only has one vent tube).

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7535.jpg
2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7536.jpg


9. Put the new battery in, working once again with the styrofoam to keep it in place.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7537.jpg


10. Pop in the vent tube.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7538.jpg


11. Reconnect the positive (red) terminal and replace the plastic cover (it pops off the old battery easily).

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7539.jpg


12. Reconnect the negative (black) terminal.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7540.jpg


13. Reattach the metal brace that secures the battery in place.

2008 E60 M5 Battery Replacement-dsc_7541.jpg


14. Replace your trunk floor.
15. Start your car. Set the date and time. These were the only two settings I lost.

I started the car and drove it for a bit, and everything seemed fine despite not having programmed anything. I will follow up in a few days after I am confident it is still fine.

Last edited by Tottifan; 13th September 2013 at 04:27 AM.
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post #2 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 07:18 AM
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post #3 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 02:28 PM
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Thanks for the writeup! So, you had a 10/07 original battery thru 09/13 or roughly 6 years. What kind of symptoms, if any, were you experiencing that caused you to change it out? Were you using a tender on the battery and/or how much did you drive your car? Daily driver or occasional use?

Mine is about 1 year newer than yours, and was only getting occasional use. I started getting "high battery discharge" or whatever the low battery warning is, so I put a tender on it, and all is good now. That is, the battery holds a good charge and no more battery warnings. Never got to the point of any other systems flaking out.

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post #4 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 02:42 PM
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I would definitely take the time to reprogram the charging system for the new battery

Last edited by Fuddy; 13th September 2013 at 02:42 PM.
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post #5 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilberGrauE60 View Post
Thanks for the writeup! So, you had a 10/07 original battery thru 09/13 or roughly 6 years. What kind of symptoms, if any, were you experiencing that caused you to change it out? Were you using a tender on the battery and/or how much did you drive your car? Daily driver or occasional use?

Mine is about 1 year newer than yours, and was only getting occasional use. I started getting "high battery discharge" or whatever the low battery warning is, so I put a tender on it, and all is good now. That is, the battery holds a good charge and no more battery warnings. Never got to the point of any other systems flaking out.
My car is a daily driver; mixed highway and NYC traffic I rarely go more than a day without starting it up.

For me, this was mostly a preventative maintenance item and an excuse to work on the car. I had received a SMG red cog error in cold weather last year a couple of times on cold starts. Each time, I just re-pressed the start button and the car worked fine. I replaced my SMG relays (salmon and black) and always wondered whether the slightly aging battery might have something to do with the red cogs as well. I just felt more comfortable changing to a new battery before the temps started to drop, and at least now if I get a red cog I'll know it's something else.

I guess the only other symptom is that I swear sometimes I hold the brake, press start, and the car doesn't attempt to turn over the engine...at which point I have to hit start again and everything works fine. No errors, etc...but I never remember having to press start twice when the car was newer. It also feels like the computer (navigation, radio, etc) takes a few seconds longer than it used to to boot up. All of this is very subtle, but I know my car and can tell when there's a change to the "norm". It's still too early to tell if the battery change fixed any of this (or if I'm crazy).
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post #6 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuddy View Post
I would definitely take the time to reprogram the charging system for the new battery
+1
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post #7 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 06:35 PM
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FYI, mine is a 10/05 build and I'm still at 30% on my OEM battery, so I think that's pretty darn good . No discharge or random errors yet.
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post #8 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 07:36 PM
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post #9 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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I did not register or reprogram anything, but as you can already see there are plenty of people who advise against this.
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post #10 of 40 Old 13th September 2013, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tottifan View Post
I guess the only other symptom is that I swear sometimes I hold the brake, press start, and the car doesn't attempt to turn over the engine...at which point I have to hit start again and everything works fine. No errors, etc...but I never remember having to press start twice when the car was newer. It also feels like the computer (navigation, radio, etc) takes a few seconds longer than it used to to boot up. All of this is very subtle, but I know my car and can tell when there's a change to the "norm". It's still too early to tell if the battery change fixed any of this (or if I'm crazy).
Here's what I do on cold starts: keep foot off the brake and press the start button once and let the iDrive screen come up. Then with foot still off the brake, press the start button again: brings up the dash warning lights, etc. Then press brake, move shift lever to N (note shift from 1 to N), then press start button and engine turns over immediately. I feel doing the start in three steps gives time for all electronics to power on deliberately, and lets me note the SMG shifting from 1 to N before I turn the engine over.

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2004 BMW E60 545i 6MT Sport Sedan (Sold)
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