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post #21 of 40 Old 26th November 2013, 11:46 PM
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Tottifan: thanks for the follow up.

I have no idea if re-programing helps or just lightens the wallet.

Mine is a daily driver for my family so elected to shell out $50 for an independent shop to update after I installed my Advance Auto battery myself.

No issues for last 12,000 miles and 8 months.

I will say, I'm leery about any electrical issue with the car causing something else to go-I'm sure I had another year in the battery or more (original), but attempting to stack the deck! I'm sure I will have my share of issues as it gains mileage. (50,000 now)
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post #22 of 40 Old 27th November 2013, 02:58 AM
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My 2008 has been getting clock-reset in the last couple months. Cold-starting is taking a lot more cranking as well (never got stranded so far). So I picked up a Duralast Platinum H8-AGM battery today. Still charging the new battery. Will do the swap tomorrow.

One surprising thing for me is that the new battery already had 12.5V of charge. My old battery is only holding 12.2V after an hour of city driving.

Update: Charged the battery overnight and installed it this morning. The swap is quite easy. I hooked up the battery charger to the jump-start terminal during the swap, so the car did not lose any setting. Upon first startup, I get the high battery drain message. But it went away moments later.

Last edited by wshtb; 27th November 2013 at 06:15 PM.
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post #23 of 40 Old 6th March 2015, 07:14 AM
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Thanks, great write-up! I got the same battery and swapped it out in the AutoZone parking lot in Lynnwood, WA yesterday. $188 total. Strictly BMW Bellevue, WA is going to do the code registration early next week for $64 total.

The hardest part, I though, was lining up the foam brace blocks when lowering the new battery in.

By the way, when these batteries get tired, these cars randomly shut down sub systems when potential is low. Some weird and scary **** can happen.

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post #24 of 40 Old 3rd April 2015, 06:10 PM
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Guys I just swapped out my battery myself and got it register at a Indy shop, but for some reason I’m still getting the battery symbol in the cluster, any idea how to reset it pls!!!

And thanks to all contributed with pic and detail msg, made me comfortable for diy!!!
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post #25 of 40 Old 3rd April 2015, 09:44 PM
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If you swapped the battery and all cables are secure...I would look to have the charging system checked.

Seems these cars' voltage regulators are notorious for failures...most are overcharging if you search the forum. Mine was undercharging and had no warning other than the "High Battery Discharge" warning.

Overcharging is more damaging to the battery than the opposite from what I understand...although the undercharge will leave you it did at the St Pete Grand Prix last weekend for myself.
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post #26 of 40 Old 3rd April 2015, 10:33 PM
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thanks for quck reply!! i will double check if everything is tighten correctly as for all the voltage AAA checked my alternator and that was ok!!
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post #27 of 40 Old 19th December 2015, 11:48 PM
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post #28 of 40 Old 20th January 2016, 02:57 PM
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Don't you just love it when that happens?!
First hit on Google is this great pictorial guide. Many thanks tottifan!
New battery fitted in less than 10 minutes.
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post #29 of 40 Old 1st April 2016, 07:17 PM
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I don't know what that loose wire is for but I can tell you that I was wondering the same thing when I was looking at my battery yesterday. Really odd to see a wire with a connector and nothing to connect it to, but hey at least now we know both of us have that to ponder. You're not alone
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post #30 of 40 Old 1st April 2016, 10:06 PM
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I "think" that cable is used during new car transport and has no other use after it's sold. Someone can confirm...
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