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post #121 of 147 Old 11th October 2015, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Live4 View Post
Unbelievable. It's a defective actuator. Brand new! Wasted 3 hours troubleshooting and confirming that it was bad. What a drag!
I just had my actuators replaced at the dealer, to two brand new units. A month later one of them failed and the car has gone through the same thing you did.

I almost want to say the recent batch is defective, because I am not the only one who had this issue with a brand new actuator.

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post #122 of 147 Old 12th October 2015, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADA View Post
I just had my actuators replaced at the dealer, to two brand new units. A month later one of them failed and the car has gone through the same thing you did.

I almost want to say the recent batch is defective, because I am not the only one who had this issue with a brand new actuator.
That's not good at all. The one that's defective has a date code of 05/2015, and the other one is 07/2015 (has no issue so far). I'm waiting for a replacement now.

-Khánh
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post #123 of 147 Old 12th October 2015, 03:41 AM
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I recently put in 2 new TA, and so far so good. Did not check the date codes on these puppies.


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post #124 of 147 Old 19th October 2015, 10:06 AM
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After you install it you must put key in turn to on but not running for 1 minute the car programs the new part no need to use a programmer. I changed.2 of mine and they worked great.


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post #125 of 147 Old 19th October 2015, 08:27 PM
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My car was not coding, but one actuator had 102K miles on it. I did an Odometer gears repair, on my 2008 M6 and I thought it went well. Actuator (build date of late 2007) goes through it's range of motion when I moved it with my hand, etc. But... car drives in limp mode now and the throttle error is there. My cable and DIS and INPA are out-dated, so I can't do anything about it yet, and I am ordering DCAN cable and newer software.

are we saying that you never need to initialize the actuators? Has anyone had a situation where they had the error and were able to clear it and get the actuator to work by initializing it via DIS? Seems like the only one who said they successfully used DIS was Fuddy and that was 3 years ago.

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Last edited by Mws; 19th October 2015 at 08:28 PM.
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post #126 of 147 Old 19th October 2015, 09:54 PM
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I have a great scanner and never used it. In my repair book for my car it says put key fob in code 15 for 1 minute so engine management can marry to part. I thought I had to program also but not true. I have 2 actuators that are bad both seem to work fine but when on car they fail. I left my car on lift for 2 years and tried to start my throttle bodies were seized I guess that broke them. You live you learn.
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post #127 of 147 Old 20th October 2015, 03:41 AM
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There is a lot of evidence already that just swapping gears ain't doing the job. There are other issues that we need to understand. I threw in 2 new ones and lubed the whole system and I have been good for 1000 miles so far.


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post #128 of 147 Old 20th October 2015, 07:53 AM
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Pfffft!!!!

Thanks for everyone's input, but in my case, as usual: Pilot error. And the sad thing is, like most of my automotive maladies, it was Self Inflicted™.

There's two actuators. One is new from earlier this year. The previous owner sprang for $900 in parts, + labor to have it done. The other had 102K miles on it and was original. When I replaced the worn gears on my old actuator, I decided to open the new one to see how it looked..."just for fun".

well, see this diagram?

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/att...ct-closeup.jpg

I took it apart tonite, looked at those tabs and said... , I wonder... sure enough, I must not have put the steel tabs in yellow, back into the electrical plug holes in yellow. so the nice brand-new actuator was basically non-functional.

This time, I put it back together and MADE SURE the little tabs went in first, and it passed the Component Activation test using DIS. I could actuate it, go out, look at it, see it was open, and wait 20 seconds and it closes automatically.

Both are fine now.

It's still an hour or so, of labor to put the ESS manifold and intake back on, before I can test-drive it again. So...first boosted review is later this week.

I think I understand better the misconception about "activation" or "initialization". The technique I used to simply verify the actuators could move was called "Component Activation" in DIS. It's no different than running a cooling fan for a bit to make sure it's plugged in. It does nothing to initialize or condition the actuator. it just opens it and lets you hop out of the car, and physically check it to see if it works. If I had a helper with me, they could simply press on the gas pedal and do the same thing.

So, I agree, there's no "initialization" or learning it needs to do. The one I repaired, never coded on me and required nothing on my part.

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post #129 of 147 Old 20th October 2015, 06:53 PM
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I have 2 sitting on my bench the gears look fine but like I said my throttle bodies were stuck closed when I tried to start my car. They both failed maybe mine are good I just replaced them I looked inside gears were good I guess I should have done test on my scanner like you did.89,000 miles on them
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post #130 of 147 Old 23rd November 2015, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M52006 View Post
I have 2 sitting on my bench the gears look fine but like I said my throttle bodies were stuck closed when I tried to start my car. They both failed maybe mine are good I just replaced them I looked inside gears were good I guess I should have done test on my scanner like you did.89,000 miles on them
m52006, where would you take your car for work? Budd's BMW is the worst and i'd like to avoid if possible. Also hopefully can get this covered under warranty as i literally just bought the car and drove it across the country.
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