e60 M5 Spark Plug & Air Filter DIY w/ Pics (Good Resource for DIY-ers) - Page 3 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion 2005- Advertiser's Forum

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post #21 of 85 Old 7th June 2012, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
mdyaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFrankm5 View Post
Mdyaman

I don't believe the coils need to be replaced when you do the spark plugs unless a coil is not performing, defective or broken. OKD makes a higher performing coil for our M's but they are $2,500-$2,800 for a set.
good to know - and yikes on OKD costs

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post #22 of 85 Old 9th June 2012, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdyaman View Post
/\

So you bought new coil packs as well?

Do you need to replace the coil packs when installing new spark plugs or can you leave the old ones in there?
No need to change your coils. Unless you break one or one not functioning properly. I didn't change the coils. One more thing I noticed after changing the spark plugs is the gas consumption is way better. I don't know if its my imagination but, the best I could do with a full tank of gas (in the city) was only 230-240km. After I changed the spark plugs I filled up and I just past 220km and I still have a quarter of tank left. mm....!!
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post #23 of 85 Old 9th June 2012, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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/\

Thanks! Good to know.

Retired: 2006 e46 ///M3 Silver-Gray SMG (sold)

Current: 2008 e60 DINAN
///M5 Interlagos Blue SMG
DINAN 3.91 Differential, Stage 2 Suspension, Free-flow exhaust, Stage III Software, Front strut braces,
High Flow Air mass meters and intakes, 13% Underdrive pulley, RPI Scoops. 12.5mm TMS Spacers.

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post #24 of 85 Old 9th June 2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaa View Post
No need to change your coils. Unless you break one or one not functioning properly. I didn't change the coils. One more thing I noticed after changing the spark plugs is the gas consumption is way better. I don't know if its my imagination but, the best I could do with a full tank of gas (in the city) was only 230-240km. After I changed the spark plugs I filled up and I just past 220km and I still have a quarter of tank left. mm....!!
Same experience for me. Only miles per gallon!
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post #25 of 85 Old 23rd August 2012, 07:10 PM
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I'm currently in the process of changing the plugs now and improvised a new strategy to remove the rear-most coil packs. Also, I received a tip from a BMW Service Manager: Pull a rag through the clips and pull on it instead of using a socket extension. It makes sense because an extension would put all of the load on a single pin-pointed area on the clip - increasing the chance of breaking it. Well that strategy worked great until I got to the final two and I simply couldn't pull straight up on the coils due to their location, so I devised a plan.

Take the coils out of the cylinders just in front of the last two.

Install a spark plug socket with extensions onto the plugs in those cylinders, the goal here is to have about 2" of extension protruding out of the valve cover.

Pull a rag through the coil clip and apply some force with it by pulling once it's looped.

Put together a length of socket extensions roughly 18" long, make sure you use a 3/8" extension to go through the clip as it's the closest fit to the hole in the clip and will most evenly load the curved section of the clip.

While pulling on the rag, use the length of extension through the clip and push down on the extensions protruding from the next cylinders spark plug bore. This acts as a fulcrum to add force and give you the "straight upwards" pulling force.

Make sure to put the rag between the extensions and the clip as this will further distribute the load the extensions will be placing on the clip.

Here are a couple of photos so you guys can better understand what I mean as I'm sure the above could confuse people:





I struggled for about 10 minutes on the drivers side rear coil and nearly gave myself a hernia trying to pull it out before I thought up this strategy. After doing this it popped right out! Best part is it applies load to the thickest part of the head instead of to the valve cover directly as I'm sure the cover is thin aluminum.

Hope this info helps save you all some stress when performing this maintenance

Last edited by tdonnell; 23rd August 2012 at 07:13 PM.
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post #26 of 85 Old 23rd August 2012, 07:33 PM
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Very helpful, Thank you.

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post #27 of 85 Old 23rd August 2012, 08:25 PM
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post #28 of 85 Old 23rd August 2012, 10:13 PM
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Not a problem guys, that is what the Board is for! I'm just glad I was able to contribute...

And another quick FYI, torque specs for the plugs are right on the boxes for them. Its 23 Nm, which equates to 17 lb/ft. The info in the DIY says 22 lb/ft, that's way too much!
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post #29 of 85 Old 17th October 2012, 02:26 PM
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Just did my plugs yesterday on a RHD car. To get the rear-most coils out I used a small block of wood (maybe 0.5 by 0.75 by 1.5 inches) stood on end against the cylinder head cover and used that as the fulcrum with a 12" extension as a lever. The coils popped out quite easily. I was able to get at the left rear plug by moving the ECU harness slightly and then I was able to use 2 extensions coupled with a universal joint. Space for the right one is tighter still so I used a 3/8s drive spark plug socket connected to a 3/8s universal joint connected to a 3/8s to 1/4 adapter connected to a 1/4 extension connected to a 1/4 inch universal joint connected to a 1/4 inch ratchet. All easy peasy lemon squeezy.

A tiny bit of rubber lube on the inside of the "top hats" on the coils helped them pop in very positively. Engine definitely runs smoother when cold - curious if the MPG climbs at all.

Last edited by E61M5; 17th October 2012 at 03:48 PM.
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post #30 of 85 Old 17th October 2012, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E61M5 View Post
Just did my plugs yesterday on a RHD car. To get the rear-most coils out I used a small block of wood (maybe 0.5 by 0.75 by 1.5 inches) stood on end against the cylinder head cover and used that as the fulcrum with a 12" extension as a lever. The coils popped out quite easily. I was able to get at the left rear plug by moving the ECU harness slightly and then I was able to use 2 extensions coupled with a universal joint. Space for the right one is tighter still so I used a 3/8s drive spark plug socket connected to a 3/8s universal joint connected to a 3/8s to 1/4 adapter connected to a 1/4 extension connected to a 1/4 inch universal joint connected to a 1/4 inch ratchet. All easy peasy lemon squeezy.

A tiny bit of rubber lube on the inside of the "top hats" on the coils helped them pop in very positively. Engine definitely runs smoother when cold - curious if the MPG climbs at all.
Didnt need all those extentions. All u had to do was to remove the internal air filter assembly under the windshield and that gives u access to the last two spark plugs. Remember its german engineering. They always leave simple solution!!
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