So in my quest to replace anything on my M5 that is getting "old" I have arrived to the fuel filter. The BMW TIS makes this install look very, very simple. the install is pretty straight forward but not as cut and dry as the TIS makes it out to be.
Tools:
Plastic rivet tool (or a screwdriver if your feeling lucky)
1/4'' rachet with 10mm and 8mm short sockets
1/4'' extension
Flat head screw driver (small)
Large 17mm open end wrench
Large 7/8'' open end wrench
New Filter ~$100 from dealer
Large pan to catch old fuel
Liquid refreshment (of course!)
I suggest a few pairs of rubber gloves, you will get fuel on you.
First off the pan is located under the drivers door on our M5's. This pan is secured by almost 10 screws. Now in true German fashion these are a combination of 10mm nuts, 8mm nuts and plastic pop rivets. Oh what a joy it is to take all these out! (don't forget the two 10mm's in the wheel well). Then you realize that the cover is tucked underneath the rubber jacking point, Doh! So now you need to get the car off the jack stands to get the cover out from under the jack point. Now that the covers off and you get hit with 60k miles of road debris and grime that was hiding under the cover :grrrrr: you get a look at this monster of a fuel filter.
Sorry I did not take any pics, but I had fuel all over my hands and we all know what plastic+fuel equals. My first MAJOR note is that the TIS gives you no information on how to depressurize the system. Just a generic warning that the system can hold up to 5bar of pressure (careful that will put an eye out). Fortunately our friends at BMW are on our side once again. there is a small valve (identical to a tire fill valve) with a metal cover on it (identical to the factory metal tire valve stem covers). I assume this port is designed for diagnostic purposes but it works fantastically to depressurize the system. Use a small screw driver, put a large pan under the car and look the other way when depressing this valve. Also use common sense, do this in an open garage and with no source of ignition near you. I take no responsibility for you nuking your house/family/pets. This takes approx 30 seconds and a good bit (1/2 a cup) of fuel will come out.
With the system depressurized the "quick connects" on the fuel lines are very easy to use (Thanks you again BMW, my Audi fuel lines were designed to self destruct when played with, I learned that the hard way, nearly $1000 later). Simply push the plastic retaining collar into the coupling and pull on the line. Remove the in, the out, and the return line to the gas tank. then simply pull the small vacuum hose off the regulator. With everything disconnected remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the unit in place. Careful there is a good quantity of fuel in the filter.
Now on to removing the regulator. The TIS gives you no instructions for this and my regulator was frozen on the filter pretty good. I used a 17mm and 7/8'' open end wrench. This allowed me to rotate the unit separately and remove them with no problem. Also make sure you transfer the small plastic washer from the old filter to the new (my new filter did not come with one). Put the regulator on the new filter and tighten to a good snug hand tight. Reinstall the metal clamps on the new filter. Put the filter back into place is just a reverse operation. Fuel lines should audibly "snap" into place. Make sure and give each one a good tug to ensure it is engaged.
Observations:
This is obviously not a HP mod, just simply preventative maintenance. The #1 cause of fuel pump failure is a clogged fuel filter. This small investment (~$100 from my dealer) could keep your pump happy for many more miles.
With the old filter drained it still had a significant weight advantage over the new one, indicating that it was pretty full of crap. Plus when you turn it upside down, nasty black fuel comes out.
Easy job, can prevent power loss and later problems.
Keep the rubber side down,
Ryan
Tools:
Plastic rivet tool (or a screwdriver if your feeling lucky)
1/4'' rachet with 10mm and 8mm short sockets
1/4'' extension
Flat head screw driver (small)
Large 17mm open end wrench
Large 7/8'' open end wrench
New Filter ~$100 from dealer
Large pan to catch old fuel
Liquid refreshment (of course!)
I suggest a few pairs of rubber gloves, you will get fuel on you.
First off the pan is located under the drivers door on our M5's. This pan is secured by almost 10 screws. Now in true German fashion these are a combination of 10mm nuts, 8mm nuts and plastic pop rivets. Oh what a joy it is to take all these out! (don't forget the two 10mm's in the wheel well). Then you realize that the cover is tucked underneath the rubber jacking point, Doh! So now you need to get the car off the jack stands to get the cover out from under the jack point. Now that the covers off and you get hit with 60k miles of road debris and grime that was hiding under the cover :grrrrr: you get a look at this monster of a fuel filter.
Sorry I did not take any pics, but I had fuel all over my hands and we all know what plastic+fuel equals. My first MAJOR note is that the TIS gives you no information on how to depressurize the system. Just a generic warning that the system can hold up to 5bar of pressure (careful that will put an eye out). Fortunately our friends at BMW are on our side once again. there is a small valve (identical to a tire fill valve) with a metal cover on it (identical to the factory metal tire valve stem covers). I assume this port is designed for diagnostic purposes but it works fantastically to depressurize the system. Use a small screw driver, put a large pan under the car and look the other way when depressing this valve. Also use common sense, do this in an open garage and with no source of ignition near you. I take no responsibility for you nuking your house/family/pets. This takes approx 30 seconds and a good bit (1/2 a cup) of fuel will come out.
With the system depressurized the "quick connects" on the fuel lines are very easy to use (Thanks you again BMW, my Audi fuel lines were designed to self destruct when played with, I learned that the hard way, nearly $1000 later). Simply push the plastic retaining collar into the coupling and pull on the line. Remove the in, the out, and the return line to the gas tank. then simply pull the small vacuum hose off the regulator. With everything disconnected remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the unit in place. Careful there is a good quantity of fuel in the filter.
Now on to removing the regulator. The TIS gives you no instructions for this and my regulator was frozen on the filter pretty good. I used a 17mm and 7/8'' open end wrench. This allowed me to rotate the unit separately and remove them with no problem. Also make sure you transfer the small plastic washer from the old filter to the new (my new filter did not come with one). Put the regulator on the new filter and tighten to a good snug hand tight. Reinstall the metal clamps on the new filter. Put the filter back into place is just a reverse operation. Fuel lines should audibly "snap" into place. Make sure and give each one a good tug to ensure it is engaged.
Observations:
This is obviously not a HP mod, just simply preventative maintenance. The #1 cause of fuel pump failure is a clogged fuel filter. This small investment (~$100 from my dealer) could keep your pump happy for many more miles.
With the old filter drained it still had a significant weight advantage over the new one, indicating that it was pretty full of crap. Plus when you turn it upside down, nasty black fuel comes out.
Easy job, can prevent power loss and later problems.
Keep the rubber side down,
Ryan
