Please post Blackstone Labs oil reports OTHER than TWS 10W60 or BMW 5W30 here - Page 3 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #21 of 42 Old 7th November 2012, 03:01 PM
StephenVA
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New Owner 1st report

Unknown mileage could have been 1200 or 5K miles.
Oil Castrol TWS 10w60
Car was run hard followed by a 525 miles trip back home to a wash, wax, warm garage, and an oil change.

thoughts and insight?
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post #22 of 42 Old 7th November 2012, 03:05 PM
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Did you idle your car or drive it for 2 minutes before the oil change, or was the oil change done immediately after a much longer drive (i.e. 20+ minutes of cruising or hard driving)? looks like you have a bit of fuel in there due to the trace amount found and lowered flashpoint.

Not much to say except your silicon is slightly elevated. This could be benign or could be poor air filtering - make sure your air filters are properly installed and that the intake tract is secured.

Boring reports are what you want. When there are no insights, it means there's nothing wrong that an oil analysis can tell you.

2001 Carbon Black on Caramel - 127k miles - Selling this year, sadly. Time to move on.
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post #23 of 42 Old 7th November 2012, 03:28 PM
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Joe,

Thanks for the quick reply. Oil was changed later in the week, after a complete warm up.
I have been going through the car section at a time cleaning and double checking all the work that was performed as indecated on the work orders to make sure bolts and parts were assembled correctly and actually done. One of the air tubes O rings was twisted and out of alignment. The car is running K&N filters. I understand there is some various positions on their use and impacts on MAF and any actual performance. I would like your input if you don't mind. I have used them on other vehicles for 20 + years with some improvements depending on air box design and intakes.
The M5 air intake system looks to be super compared to other cars. When reviewing posted claims on CAI, it appears a slight improvement can be discovered. The stock box with paper filters (Mann etc) vs K&N....thoughts and insight? Both are cheap and easy so I would like to see if anyone has done dyno testing back to back, especially long term testing matched with lab testing of their oils.
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post #24 of 42 Old 7th November 2012, 03:42 PM
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I ran K&N air filters in another car for 120k and had BETTER filtration (according to oil analysis) than OEM filters on that car.

However, I'm guessing yours are very freshly cleaned and oiled - when they are cleanest, they filter the worst and flow the best.

The m5 air intake design is very efficient and there are only a few intakes that actually work better than stock across a wide rpm range (Dinan is one). I would use stock air filters, personally.

it's ultimately up to you!

2001 Carbon Black on Caramel - 127k miles - Selling this year, sadly. Time to move on.
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post #25 of 42 Old 7th December 2012, 01:49 AM
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I didn't want to open new thread so put this here (our Castrol 10W60 included).

all in all Russians did some testing recently...google translated original page

Google Translate
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post #26 of 42 Old 7th December 2012, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by areout View Post
I didn't want to open new thread so put this here (our Castrol 10W60 included).

all in all Russians did some testing recently...google translated original page

Google Translate
That's pretty extensive, but admittedly, i have no idea what I'm looking at. Can anyone explain what this means?
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post #27 of 42 Old 7th December 2012, 05:22 PM
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post #28 of 42 Old 7th December 2012, 05:53 PM
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So I'll write this response as I go through the page. Pretty interesting stuff so far, but I want to totally stress that there are about 50,000,000,000 different types of tests for oil and any single test is not an adequate assessment of the oil's 'greatness' for your engine.

This isa test where they heat the oil to at least 380 Celcius for an hour, while it's exposed to oxygen, and give a visual indication of the deposits, oil breakdown, oil thickening (indicated by either consumption or oil breakdown), oil consumption (as indicated by ash and/or thickening) created as a result. This might simulate oil on the cylinder wall during combustion, but the oil doesn't really stay exposed to that heat and pressure.

They cooked the oil in one position then rotated the oil container so that you can see what was left behind - ash, deposits, thickened oil, sludge, varnish, polymer formation, etc.

I look at this as relevant to our engines from a consumption standpoint. What happens when a given oil is exposed to sufficient heat to generate consumption/burn off. It is NOT a test relevant to say, the ability of an oil's film strength to keep seperate a rod bearing and crankshaft under high load. This is just one example of why a c

So again, take it for what it's worth. here's a brief summary for each U.S./widely available oil I viewed on there:

Castrol Edge 0-40 shows no visual deposits
BMW 0-40 LL shows some varnishing and minor deposits
BMW SAE 0w30 LL shows some varnishing and minor deposits
BMW SAE 5w30 LL-04 shows significant cooking, coking, sludging, deposit formation, and further breakdown
i-Sint and havoline 5w40 are very similar to the last description
Valvoline Synpower 5w30 shows some varnishing and minor deposits
ENEOS 5w40 shows very slight varnishing and minimal deposits
BP Visco 5w40 shows very thick sludging/breakdown, deposits, etc.
Liqui moly 0w40 shows really no visual varnish or deposits. I see some very small pieces in there that would be filtered out.
Castrol Magnatec 5w30 "For ford engines" shows sedimentation/deposits
Mercedes 229.5 original shows significant coking/cooking of the oil
Mobil 1 0w40 "Advanced full synthetic" (US has this available) shows no real deposits and very minor varnishing
Mobil 1 0w40 "full synthetic" shows notable varnishing, no real deposits or coking
Mobil 1 0w30 AFE shows a weird band of varnish and a little bit of cooking/coking
Mobil 1 5w40 "Fully synthetic" shows clumps of oil sludge forming and a coloration I don't know what it is - probably a mineral in the oil actually fully seperating from the oil. Not good.
Motul LL04 5w40 shows moderate coking, varnish, and minor sludging. I was surprised by this one.
BP Visco 5000 SAE 5w40 shows no varnish, coking, sludging, or any signs the oil was stressed.
Lukoil Standard 10w40 shows extremely minor varnish/oil breakdown
LiquiMoly 5w50 shows alot of varnishing and thickening. This is most likely the viscosity index improvers (the things allowing it to be a 5w50) breaking down.
Pentosin Super 5w30 shows some coking and varnishing
Castrol Edge 5w30 shows very minor coking and varnishing
Castrol Edge 0w30 "Professional" shows very significant breakdown leading to clumping and early sludging. Castrol's poorest showing so far.
Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 shows clumping and sludging, pretty significant
Castrol Edge professional 5w30 shows clumping and sludging and some varnishing/thickening
BMW Original 0w40 LL-04 shows significant breakdown and sludging. Most of the oil did not survive this test.

Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 shows notable varnishing and some thickening and minor deposit formation. The test notes to compare it to Pentosin Super as well. since this is particular relevant to this forum, my comment is that this is to be expected. 10w60 has a very significant amount of viscosity index improvers to get it to operate at such extreme viscosity differences. These are very well known to breakdown - that's why 10w60 is often a 10w40 or 10w50 after just 3000-5000 miles. i think that's what we're seeing here.

Motul 300v 5w40 shows a significant amount of deposits, varnishing, but very little sludging/coking. It's an interesting mix - it's like this oil doesn't clump/sludge, but will form deposits.

Motul 8100 Clean shows almost entirely polymerization, where the oil is forming deposits in the form of polymers. Some sludging and coking.

Skipping a few here...

Total Quartz 5w40 - deposits, sludging, coking.

Honda genuine 5w30 (of all things) - Very minor thickening and varnish

Mobil Super 15w40 - a tad of varnish, no deposit, no sludging

Shell Helix Racing Ultra 10w60 - Alot of coking and sludging. Very little varnishing.

BMW High performance full synthetic 5w30 significant coking and thickening

BMW LL-01 5w30 shows some deposit formation and thickening

Castrol Edge Professional 5w30 alot of coking and deposits

Elf Evolution CRV 0w30 Ash seperation/formation and varnishing

Kendall full synthetic 0w20 very minor deposit formation and varnishing

Mobil One 10w60 alot of thickening, varnishing, and some minor deposit formation

Quartz Total 10w40 - one of the best showings - no signs of deposits, varnish, thickening, etc.

Shell Helix Ultra 0w40 significant clumping and early sludging

Castrol Edge Professional LL-III 5w30 deposits forming and significant thickening of the oil

Redline 5w40 is varnishing and shows deposits forming and ash generating

Fuchs Titan GT1 5w40 significant breakdown/cooking/coking

Fuchs Titan GT1 pro 5w30 - excellent showing, bit of varnish/thickening but no signs of deposits or cooking of oil

Liqui Moly SynthOil 5w40 High Tech - Some thickening and varnish but fairly minor

Liqui Moly 0w30 - very minor deposits and thickening, even a slightly better showing than their 5w40
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post #29 of 42 Old 11th December 2012, 04:57 AM
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post #30 of 42 Old 20th June 2013, 04:50 PM
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LiquiMoly 10w60 Analysis

Interesting read...I switched from Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance due to concern over bearing wear. The new report reveals some better numbers and consumption dropped dramatically.

I get 5 L of LiquiMoly 10w60 for $40, so it's a very affordable change.

Last edited by SleeperM5; 21st June 2013 at 12:33 PM.
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